Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The only GTR I have driven is mine. Which previously was stock with computer and cat back. So with out first hand experience it's a little hard to judge what I would like

Go for a drive in different setups that your engine builder has done, see what you like and get him to build it. Best way to do it hands down and don't rely on other people's opinions on drivability and lag...your opinion is the only one that counts. Edited by XGTRX

Your 2.6ltr setup sounds aligned to my liking. I had a 2.6ltr with -5s but I didn't get to keep it long enough to have my tuner remap it...although it felt strong at 347kw on 19psi.

Do u know what cams your engine is running out of curiosity? Any additional porting?

Anyway we are getting into the old forum fight of the definition of laggy setup. Each to their own on this one. I think the best advice is experiencing different setups to see what your happy with. Me personally love the built, cammed, -5 RB26 Setup. Best of both worlds and as my engine builder said, 'the 26s sweet spot'. I drive it daily and love that it's off boost in traffic and starts coming on at a higher rev range. I would hate boost coming on too early. BUT when I want to drive the car then I hold it between 4 and 7-8 and she is a rocket and no lag when it matters. My other car is a HSV LS2 with old school lumpiness and a hi stall. Again in traffic she purrs under stall with low torque to the wheels but when asked to she will flash to 4k and all hell will break loose. Best of both world with both Setups in my opinion.

Sorry mate can't help you much with the specs. All I know is that they were match ported to the plenum and exhaust manifold, and the engine builder modifies the head someway. The cams he uses he said is his own grind. Sorry mate. All I did was experience a few different setups and then said build me that one... which he did.

Wow

easy to criticise is in it mate - on the other hand no one has come with any / provided me with any real evidence to convince me otherwise i.e.back to back testing to determine if this is accurate or just a myth.

Edited by Ants

Hey mate I don't think it's a criticism it just against all the theory.

And it's not a myth it gets put into practice everyday.

still no evidence - and I'm going stop here with this debate because this thread is not designed for this type of discussion.

As an extension to wanting to get exhaust gases out as fast as possible, are there proven advantages around tuned length front pipes?

I often use the Gibson gtr as a benchmark hence did this car run straight front pipes or tuned length?

3 inch un-tuned side pipes.

Get it out as fast as possible.

Sorry I don't have any pics of the exhaust on the GIO car, I only took engine bay shots when I was working on it... Next time, just for you guys. ;)

3 inch un-tuned side pipes.

Get it out as fast as possible.

Would not having the gasses merging back into a single pipe have any effect on this like 98% of low mount GTR's out there are?

In regards to the "tuned length" debate, wouldn't the gas pulses be all messed up after going through the turbine wheel?

Would not having the gasses merging back into a single pipe have any effect on this like 98% of low mount GTR's out there are?

In regards to the "tuned length" debate, wouldn't the gas pulses be all messed up after going through the turbine wheel?

Pulses merging at a funnel and accelerating can promote a low pressure hole for the next pulse, but as Piggaz said, the turbine will chop the pulses to hell and the housing will smooth the pulses out due to it's restriction imo.

3 inch un-tuned side pipes.

 

Get it out as fast as possible.

Would not having the gasses merging back into a single pipe have any effect on this like 98% of low mount GTR's out there are?

In regards to the "tuned length" debate, wouldn't the gas pulses be all messed up after going through the turbine wheel?

If you mean scavenging the exhaust pulse, that only really is noticeable in small NA engines for the average guy. that's why if you speak to any RB engine builder he will recommend a pipe diameter for a certain power/torque/displacement/turbo setup to get the gasses out as quickly as possible.

easy to criticise is in it mate - on the other hand no one has come with any / provided me with any real evidence to convince me otherwise i.e.back to back testing to determine if this is accurate or just a myth.

Instead of waiting for someone probably best you do some reading to figure it out like most others have or talk to someone who really knows what they are talking about.

It is even easier to sit back and demand someone provide evidence (for what is a fact) to satisfy someones skepticism.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The ATTESSA is functionally identical to R34; there were a bunch of JDM models that continued ATTESSA including Fuga/Q70, Skyline/Q50, Cima etc as an option. All with Auto only and I think mostly for snow regions. AFAIK there were no AWD VR30DDTT sold in Australia - it is on my to do list to check regs for racing a LHD car in Targa/ATR/AASA/CAMS events because if I can get the auto to work it would be interesting to run a 4wd car The Ecuteck TCM tuning is the same model as their ECU tuning, they already have it for R35 and Dose's favourite, BMW. You buy "points" to allow your computer to be tuned, buy either a bluetooth (phone app) or bluetooth+USB+Key (phone and PC) dongle, and pay for a tune that will be locked to your tuner ( ). You can also access the tuning software yourself but 1. it is mega expensive and 2. these computers have a billion parameters that intersect, so how could you ever spend enough time on it to get a decent result.
    • Or, is it a case of what it is like owning an R series Skyline? NFI what the previous owner has done or fiddled with... Ha ha ha After reading through this thread, I went on a bit of a research about the Q50/Q60. Now I'm quite intrigued by them! Is the AWD in them more like a WRX where it's always AWD, or is it more like the ATTESSA in the GTRs? By the sound of this TCU tuning, this sounds like a case of someone has made some real software for it, and you just need the right piece of hardware, and then you license that specific vehicle/TCU. Or is this a case of the software will be really expensive so only a few tuners have it, and you still have to pay a license per vehicle?
    • By popular demand.. it was a coil. Got my hands on 1 new OEM coil, replaced with the one that made the less noise difference when I unplugged it while the car was running and started the car up. No stutter and the engine light was gone. I guess I’ll buy the other 5 they have lol
    • No, code 21 is very straightforward. It can only be the things described in that diagnostic flow. In fact it has no way of knowing that the spark plug resistance is out of spec.
    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
×
×
  • Create New...