Jump to content
SAU Community

-7/9s Or -5s Garretts

Adz2332

By Adz2332,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

tk80 Proficient

tk80

Posted
Posted (edited)

KING87 - what's the power difference between 23psi and 25psi on your car? i'm contemplating pushing mine a little harder.
and my 2c on the question of the thread - buy the -5's. I've never met someone that doesn't want to chase more power in the future. Buy bigger now for the bigger/longer term picture.

Edited by tk80
  • Replies 949
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Popular Posts

R31Nismoid
R31Nismoid

Gospel huh? Considering im making a lazy 250rwkw @ 12psi with GT-SS, and I know of at least another 10 cars making over 300rwkw (between 300-330rwkw) on 20-22psi… On various dynos to boot (more on th

discoPumpkin
discoPumpkin

Ants is right, lag and no responsiveness should be a crime or atleast punishable under the anti gay laws. It's beyond me why the hell people r so intent on makin there car run like a pig, and if peop

Ants
Ants

The quality of retard bingo in here is heavily retarded.......................to the point that I'm inclined to think this thread has well and truly served its purpose and should be closed. GTR_JOEY

Posted Images

(OO)SKYLINE(OO) Grand Master

(OO)SKYLINE(OO)

Posted
Posted

Under 300kw on a stock engine would be a good buffer. I was only running 325awkw when it let go. But then again I had a 89 gtr so the engine had a long life.

+1

It's safe and still got some pull when you need it!

understatement......I have deep reservations about that engine's longevity at that power / boost level ......I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Yeah, know the feel!

As long as you know what to expect and be prepared fork out the cash.

Then just keep driving and enjoy it as it is.

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

KING87 - what's the power difference between 23psi and 25psi on your car? i'm contemplating pushing mine a little harder.

and my 2c on the question of the thread - buy the -5's. I've never met someone that doesn't want to chase more power in the future. Buy bigger now for the bigger/longer term picture.

Agreed.

KING87 Rising Star

KING87

Posted
Posted

Yeah I know what to expect and I will keep you all posted if and when it does let go.

Not sure what it made on 23psi it's got 25 @ 5000 RPM I will try dig up the dyno print out.

-5's for the win for street and track but agreed they could use a few more cubes behind them

On the street.

hazjaz Enthusiast

hazjaz

Posted
Posted

Ahh this has pushed me to get -5s now.. With a built engine (forged pistons, rods, cams etc) and on e85.. What would be the power difference from 9s to 5s?

And the difference on hitting full boost would be from 4.5k for 9s and 5k for 5s?

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

Ahh this has pushed me to get -5s now.. With a built engine (forged pistons, rods, cams etc) and on e85.. What would be the power difference from 9s to 5s?

And the difference on hitting full boost would be from 4.5k for 9s and 5k for 5s?

Lower than that for both but remember boost is not a switch things happen way before full boost. And your producing the same power as -7s with- 5s way before full boost all the way to 7.5k and then when you change gears your always in the sweet spot. But as I said drive both and see what you like and then make your decision. Any reputable rb workshop will allow you to experience multiple setups they build if they see your serious.

Piggaz Grand Master

Piggaz

Posted
Posted

understatement......I have deep reservations about that engine's longevity at that power / boost level ......I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Good excuse to build a real engine :)

XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted (edited)

Ants wrote; ...I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Ha ha the best. I was driving around with a spun bearing for 5 months until it eventually went bang. Last 2 months it sounded like a tractor. As soon as I heard the bearing a put slick50 in it and it lasted for 5 months. Everyone was shocked including me ha ha.

Used to drive 50 kms a day on the ring road carpark and other drivers used to look in amazement at the knocking sound coming from my 33.

Edited by XGTRX
XGTRX Veteran

XGTRX

Posted
Posted

How was the crank when you pulled it out? Lol

When it totally gave way it was like rattling a can of bolts. luckily it happened in the driveway and I switched it off straight away.

When my engine builder took the sump off to send it off for the extension he just shook his head. The 4th piston bearing was dislodged, rod was free and piston was wedged in the bore. There was more metal in the sump than oil. Ha ha classic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The Bogan
      NC MX5

      By The Bogan · Posted

      Kittens in first to claim dominance of the residence, then puppies later From past experience, the other way around can be problematic to say the least  Those weird "Dobby looking"  little kittens are not cheap....LOL
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      At least yours have parkour down pat. One of mine will still trip over his own shadow and fall over... He's a special type of cat... Ha ha ha
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

    • SteveL
      Leak from Tokico BM50 Brake Master Cylinder

      By SteveL · Posted

      The question then becomes - was there any fluid coming from that hole before you did the rebuild ?    You may not have noticed, of course.   Depending on how you did the rebuild, the possibility has to be considered that somehow (cleaning ?)  fluid entered that hole and is now being 'forced'  out by small movements of the proportioning valve.   From the factory, there's actually a small rubber plug in that hole but with age and under-bonnet heat it's quite common for it to 'go missing'.  That rubber plug is designed to allow the venting process but also to prevent 'stuff' getting to the area (prevent corrosion, etc).   The plug is also not available as a spare part AFAIA. Personally I wouldn't race and buy a new master just yet but keep an eye on the area to see if the 'leak' continues.   If you're concerned about brake fluid damaging nearby paintwork, cable tie a piece of suitable absorbant material over the hole and remove/monitor occasionally.    Operation of the proportioning valve and the brake master itself won't be affected, but also keep an eye on brake fluid level, of course. In terms of a new master, the genuine part is getting expensive, unfortunately.  Amayama is showing AUD900+.   I was searching recently and there's an aftermarket part available from Japan made by 'Parts Assist': https://zenmarket.jp/en/yahoo.aspx?q=BNR32%2bBM50&p=1 Whether it's any good I have no idea, although in my experience Japanese aftermarket stuff is pretty good quality-wise.   The above site allows overseas buyers to purchase stuff more easily from Japan but there are fees and shipping costs, of course.   The original Japanese seller page is here: https://auctions.yahoo.co.jp/jp/auction/p1197401228 Copper/Nickel is fine but I still prefer bundy tube and it's also cheaper.
    • Duncan
      NC MX5

      By Duncan · Posted

      Your chihuahuas look weird!
×
×
  • Create New...