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KING87 - what's the power difference between 23psi and 25psi on your car? i'm contemplating pushing mine a little harder.
and my 2c on the question of the thread - buy the -5's. I've never met someone that doesn't want to chase more power in the future. Buy bigger now for the bigger/longer term picture.

Edited by tk80

Under 300kw on a stock engine would be a good buffer. I was only running 325awkw when it let go. But then again I had a 89 gtr so the engine had a long life.

+1

It's safe and still got some pull when you need it!

understatement......I have deep reservations about that engine's longevity at that power / boost level ......I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Yeah, know the feel!

As long as you know what to expect and be prepared fork out the cash.

Then just keep driving and enjoy it as it is.

KING87 - what's the power difference between 23psi and 25psi on your car? i'm contemplating pushing mine a little harder.

and my 2c on the question of the thread - buy the -5's. I've never met someone that doesn't want to chase more power in the future. Buy bigger now for the bigger/longer term picture.

Agreed.

Yeah I know what to expect and I will keep you all posted if and when it does let go.

Not sure what it made on 23psi it's got 25 @ 5000 RPM I will try dig up the dyno print out.

-5's for the win for street and track but agreed they could use a few more cubes behind them

On the street.

Ahh this has pushed me to get -5s now.. With a built engine (forged pistons, rods, cams etc) and on e85.. What would be the power difference from 9s to 5s?

And the difference on hitting full boost would be from 4.5k for 9s and 5k for 5s?

Ahh this has pushed me to get -5s now.. With a built engine (forged pistons, rods, cams etc) and on e85.. What would be the power difference from 9s to 5s?

And the difference on hitting full boost would be from 4.5k for 9s and 5k for 5s?

Lower than that for both but remember boost is not a switch things happen way before full boost. And your producing the same power as -7s with- 5s way before full boost all the way to 7.5k and then when you change gears your always in the sweet spot. But as I said drive both and see what you like and then make your decision. Any reputable rb workshop will allow you to experience multiple setups they build if they see your serious.

understatement......I have deep reservations about that engine's longevity at that power / boost level ......I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Good excuse to build a real engine :)

Ants wrote; ...I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Ha ha the best. I was driving around with a spun bearing for 5 months until it eventually went bang. Last 2 months it sounded like a tractor. As soon as I heard the bearing a put slick50 in it and it lasted for 5 months. Everyone was shocked including me ha ha.

Used to drive 50 kms a day on the ring road carpark and other drivers used to look in amazement at the knocking sound coming from my 33.

Edited by XGTRX

How was the crank when you pulled it out? Lol

When it totally gave way it was like rattling a can of bolts. luckily it happened in the driveway and I switched it off straight away.

When my engine builder took the sump off to send it off for the extension he just shook his head. The 4th piston bearing was dislodged, rod was free and piston was wedged in the bore. There was more metal in the sump than oil. Ha ha classic.

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