Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

KING87 - what's the power difference between 23psi and 25psi on your car? i'm contemplating pushing mine a little harder.
and my 2c on the question of the thread - buy the -5's. I've never met someone that doesn't want to chase more power in the future. Buy bigger now for the bigger/longer term picture.

Edited by tk80

Under 300kw on a stock engine would be a good buffer. I was only running 325awkw when it let go. But then again I had a 89 gtr so the engine had a long life.

+1

It's safe and still got some pull when you need it!

understatement......I have deep reservations about that engine's longevity at that power / boost level ......I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Yeah, know the feel!

As long as you know what to expect and be prepared fork out the cash.

Then just keep driving and enjoy it as it is.

KING87 - what's the power difference between 23psi and 25psi on your car? i'm contemplating pushing mine a little harder.

and my 2c on the question of the thread - buy the -5's. I've never met someone that doesn't want to chase more power in the future. Buy bigger now for the bigger/longer term picture.

Agreed.

Yeah I know what to expect and I will keep you all posted if and when it does let go.

Not sure what it made on 23psi it's got 25 @ 5000 RPM I will try dig up the dyno print out.

-5's for the win for street and track but agreed they could use a few more cubes behind them

On the street.

Ahh this has pushed me to get -5s now.. With a built engine (forged pistons, rods, cams etc) and on e85.. What would be the power difference from 9s to 5s?

And the difference on hitting full boost would be from 4.5k for 9s and 5k for 5s?

Ahh this has pushed me to get -5s now.. With a built engine (forged pistons, rods, cams etc) and on e85.. What would be the power difference from 9s to 5s?

And the difference on hitting full boost would be from 4.5k for 9s and 5k for 5s?

Lower than that for both but remember boost is not a switch things happen way before full boost. And your producing the same power as -7s with- 5s way before full boost all the way to 7.5k and then when you change gears your always in the sweet spot. But as I said drive both and see what you like and then make your decision. Any reputable rb workshop will allow you to experience multiple setups they build if they see your serious.

understatement......I have deep reservations about that engine's longevity at that power / boost level ......I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Good excuse to build a real engine :)

Ants wrote; ...I sure as hell would not want to be in the car when she goes BANG!

Ha ha the best. I was driving around with a spun bearing for 5 months until it eventually went bang. Last 2 months it sounded like a tractor. As soon as I heard the bearing a put slick50 in it and it lasted for 5 months. Everyone was shocked including me ha ha.

Used to drive 50 kms a day on the ring road carpark and other drivers used to look in amazement at the knocking sound coming from my 33.

Edited by XGTRX

How was the crank when you pulled it out? Lol

When it totally gave way it was like rattling a can of bolts. luckily it happened in the driveway and I switched it off straight away.

When my engine builder took the sump off to send it off for the extension he just shook his head. The 4th piston bearing was dislodged, rod was free and piston was wedged in the bore. There was more metal in the sump than oil. Ha ha classic.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I wasn’t able to replicate the sound anymore. It was a one time sound so maybe it was just coincidence but it was like small pebbles being dropped in a coke can.   should I try cleaning the MAF? It could be it’s functioning but dirty? I don’t know.
    • Update 4: Hi all. The car drives again! Haven't driven for long, only to store it in the garage again, but the test drive was successful. The coolant and oil leaks seem to be fixed for now. Temps on the engine were also very good, while moving I never even saw 80C water during the approx. 30 minute drive. Ate up all the coolant in the reservoir though so will have to fill that even more when I go to the car next time. One thing that pisses me off is that the RPM gauge is still f**ked, I even resoldered the board twice and used copper paste on the silly screws that are used as connections. Next time I take it out I'll take apart the board and fit new components, I'll see if I can get a replacement IC for it.  I have an appointment set for 22nd of September for the engine tune to 370hp. Alignment also still needs to be done. My hope is that I can get all the legal stuff over with by the end of this season. Anyone of you have advice regarding intercoolers? Currently there is an APEXI core fitted, one of those weird hybrid ones, 600x270x76. I don't think it's bad but it's not new and now I still have the chance to change it now to legally include it in the paperwork. Only issue is that the only options that would arrive in time are a HKS Type R intercooler or generic Ebay spec intercoolers comparable to a JustJap one. Ideally I'd order a Plazmaman but it takes over a month to receive which would mean making the car legal has to wait until next season. Would love to hear some input on this. Same story for my injectors, the previous owner was a nunce and put ID 1050x on the engine. They work but are obviously not ideal at "normal" power levels. But I don't see a reason to change them unless the tuner says it's necessary. I read online before buying a different exhaust that the top secret style rear diffusers won't fit due to the size of the rear resonators. My buddy and I made it work by slightly "adjusting the shape" of the mounting bracket and making some spacers out of 3d print for the mounting bolts. Fits like a charm. Just putting this here in case someone has this problem. Even the hefty HKS Silent Hi Power rear can fits without hitting anything.
    • Well they got my money but they are not getting my gearbox ! 
    • It's needed for rolling idle up, and I think it is a decider on VCT also.
    • I mean, not really. Link ECU's can absolutely still have errors from the ECU thinking it's getting a sensor it's not expecting. I would imagine the speed at the ECU level in Nistune does absolutely nothing anyway? I assume the ECU does not do any fancy TC stuff with regards to front+rear wheel speed or anything of that like anyway. Someone who uses Nistune may be more fluent in it. 
×
×
  • Create New...