Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey i recently brought a skyline r34 gtt everything is stock, so i decided to put it on the dyno to see what is puts out in only managed to do 184bhp (i think that it feels faster than that), i was told that they came stock with 280hp is that right, anyway i was devo when i saw the results so i booked it in to get a after market ecu and an electronic boost controller (getting done on 17th). i was wondering what the next upgrade would be best to make more power out of my car.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/255972-devostating-dyno-results-for-r34/
Share on other sites

hey i recently brought a skyline r34 gtt everything is stock, so i decided to put it on the dyno to see what is puts out in only managed to do 184bhp (i think that it feels faster than that), i was told that they came stock with 280hp is that right, anyway i was devo when i saw the results so i booked it in to get a after market ecu and an electronic boost controller (getting done on 17th). i was wondering what the next upgrade would be best to make more power out of my car.

stock r34 gtt (neo) is 145kw at the wheels, which is 194bhp so your result is right on the money.

See: http://nissanskyline.6te.net/GTT_spec.htm

stock r34 gtt (neo) is 145kw at the wheels, which is 194bhp so your result is right on the money.

See: http://nissanskyline.6te.net/GTT_spec.htm

I wouldn't trust that site if my life depended on it.

1. The information was all ripped from these forums about 4 years ago.

2. Its out of date, never updated

The best info is always found by searching these forums, rather than some muppet who claimed limited info from these forums as his own.

IMO that site should be shut down as there is so much wrong with it that it gives me a headache to read

ANYWAY - 206kw = 280hp

184bhp is about 134rwkw... so that sounds exactly right give or take a 10kw difference for dyno's etc

So realistically there is nothing devastating about it at all, its a factory car making pretty much exactly the factory HP/KW.

To be honest you need a full exhaust etc before a ECU/Tune... You wont get anywhere near the gains with JUST a ECU/Tune as you would if you put a decent flowing exhaust on there

don't be upset dude, as others have said. if the car is stock (completely) then thats RIGHT on the money on what your car should be making. Look at getting an exhaust and an EBC running around 10psi and you'll be making about 160rwkw maybe less depending on the dyno.

hey i recently brought a skyline r34 gtt everything is stock, so i decided to put it on the dyno to see what is puts out in only managed to do 184bhp (i think that it feels faster than that), i was told that they came stock with 280hp is that right

<cut>

i was wondering what the next upgrade would be best to make more power out of my car.

First question, no, that's wrong.

Second question, there are threads on this, what exhaust system are your running? And are you running a decent cat converter?

Yes, people often go the ECU + more boost + exhaust system and either a pod filter or airbox panel filter upgrade + good tune and get a nice gain :D

Hey, maybe im a bit confused, i thougth that the GT-T's came out with 206kw(flywheel) as well as the GTR? Ok maybe not 206 but it should still have considerably more then the R33 (187).

So on paper given a high 20% D/T loss, a healthy GTT should see around 160-170rwkw stock form am I not correct in thinking that? 184hp is a mere 137rwkw.

When was it serviced last?

Could you post up your dyno sheet by any chance?

Hey, maybe im a bit confused, i thougth that the GT-T's came out with 206kw(flywheel) as well as the GTR? Ok maybe not 206 but it should still have considerably more then the R33 (187).

So on paper given a high 20% D/T loss, a healthy GTT should see around 160-170rwkw stock form am I not correct in thinking that? 184hp is a mere 137rwkw.

When was it serviced last?

Could you post up your dyno sheet by any chance?

yeah i thought it would put out more than what it did, last service was about a month ago

yeah here is dyno sheet

post-57941-1234052813_thumb.jpg

If a mechanic advised you to spend money on an ecu and boost controller, before exhaust and even a better quality air filter (in the airbox), you should go else where; It seems he is just interested in making the most money from you and doesn't care about your interests.

Fair enough he may have gotten confused about the power figures etc, but any good mechanic would recommend upgrading the factory exhaust system first.

guys, seriously now, a "non-happy dyno" on a stock car will go anywhere from 120-140rwkw depending on the health of the car and other factors. as al said too, you're mechanic is probably saying that to you to squeeze $$ out of you. oh dude your car is really low on power you need this this and this now to make it go hard.

first things first. get an exhaust, a cai, and maybe a hi-flow cat. you will notice a very nice gain alone just with those mods.

if your going to be boosting it id be putting a larger intercooler at the same time.....

also the r34 gtt is alittle heavier than the r33 gtst so the extra engine power is almost cancled out so not much differnece in actual real life power between stock r33 and stock r34...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You beat me to it, I was going to say this -  And this -  Sounds like things are coming along pretty well and your learning heaps along the way. 
    • It's the same ABS unit from the old shell.  It was all just lifted and shifted.  I am looking at the BMW MK60 ABS unit as a budget upgrade, as I'm not keen on handing over 15k for a Bosch unit.  
    • Bear in mind RBs tend to be pretty terrible for fuel economy and it heavily depends on driving style. In my experience with a heavy-ass turbo Stagea the 10l/100km is really just ideal conditions highway driving. Start-stop in the city is killer and it ends up being 16-19l/100km easily. I keep track of it every time I get fuel and it is never pretty. There are a few topics in the forums where people share their fuel economy if you want to get some ideas of what it can be like. I don't think it is worth that much to compare though because it depends so much on the driving.
    • R32 HICAS, so long as the CU is not itself faulty, is easy to keep working enough for the PS. Just unplug the smaller of the two loom plugs, on the CU, like I have already said about 4000 times on this forum. This works with all the stock hardware, or with a lock bar, or with a complete removal. I know, because I have done all of them. OK, actually, I never put a lock bar on because why would you put a lock bar on when you can get rid of the whole lot, including the stupid tie rod ends?
    • Join the NorCal facebook group btw, but if you can confirm it is HICAS I would install a lock bar and do the work to keep the HICAS control unit happy despite the hardware not functioning. The HICAS control unit is also responsible for speed sensitive power steering so if it's unhappy you'll get failsafe/heavy power steering. A standalone can control that power steering solenoid valve but sometimes it's just easier to stick with the factory setup. Tomei makes a little electronic module that you can install to fool the control unit. I would probably go through the effort to not use a scotch-lok and build a harness so I don't have to chop up the OEM harness. Where you could source those connectors and pins I wouldn't know at the moment though.
×
×
  • Create New...