Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 3 weeks later...
  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have added 3 pistons to my list today...

Started to breath into the dry sump tank heavily and once we stripped it down found 2,4 and 6 have melted away the ring lands

Not sure of the cause yet but will be checking injectors etc before blaming anything else.

Yeah I only did 10 laps in total. Really annoying as it had good pace in the morning, with more to come.

There's always next weekend....

Ill get another set of slugs and have it back together and running by saturday night. Just need to find the cause, so far all the data is showing everything to be reasonable. But number 3 EGT is slightly higher than the others which is also the piston it melted.

oh yeah I remember 2 other things I needed to add to this thread.

tubro

deadturbo.jpg

I recommend removing all nuts and washers from the inside of your intake, this one cost me a motor (spun bearings and scored bores)

and an transfer case. I snapped the chain. I'll post pics later it is a pretty amazing acheivement.

Brad it might be your thread but you still need to post pics....

Ill put photos of the piston up tommorrow. There at the machinists but ill get them back tommorrow with all the other stuff.

That turbo is fairly rooted! Ive also been through a fair few turbos and my current ones are pretty average too.

Na the piston didnt do any damage other than to itself really. We have checked the valves and head. There is a few cosmetic marks on the squish bands but nothing that wont clean up with a surface grind.

Small mark on the bore which is a deposit not a score so it will be lightly honed and reused.

Pistons will be done tommorrow, set of rings, bearings and gaskets will see it back in action.

Sam was here tonight checking everything else out engine wise and the injectors are being tested tomorrow as well.

Ill use this engine again for a few meetings and re-block it when we have a 3 week break and I have another block preped ready to go.

The turbos are more so damaged due to the lack of air filters and dusty circuits we race on. Its something i've been trying to get sorted but driving the car has become priority over making up and intake, kinda backwards really but oh well....

Best photo I currently have, there is about 80%of the top ring land gone and its burnt all the way down the skirt.

post-20349-1236589111_thumb.jpg

oh yeah I remember 2 other things I needed to add to this thread.

tubro

deadturbo.jpg

I recommend removing all nuts and washers from the inside of your intake, this one cost me a motor (spun bearings and scored bores)

and an transfer case. I snapped the chain. I'll post pics later it is a pretty amazing acheivement.

Brad it might be your thread but you still need to post pics....

I came sooooo close to that one myself Dunc. Got home from a cruise on sunday and popped the bonnet for a quick look see and crapped my pants when I saw one of the backing plate bolts was missing from the air cleaner.

Knowing that there was a nut on the inside of the filter made for some heart in mouth stuff while I took the filter off.

Huuuuuge relief to find the nut laying in the bottom of the filter.

One redesign coming right up.

oh yeah I remember 2 other things I needed to add to this thread.

tubro

deadturbo.jpg

I recommend removing all nuts and washers from the inside of your intake, this one cost me a motor (spun bearings and scored bores)

and an transfer case. I snapped the chain. I'll post pics later it is a pretty amazing acheivement.

Brad it might be your thread but you still need to post pics....

The Turbos i had on my car when it came from japan were like this, I didnt know untill i changed the dumps 2 years later.

it still made 360something hp and i thought it went sweeeet.. then got the turbos repaired and woahhhhhh massive difference..

and now engine pop :) and i'll finally post that photo :)

post-31456-1236647918_thumb.jpg

My bottom end is all assembled again!

Ill be chucking a head back on it tomorrow and will be sweet to go again.

Block is a little average now and Piston to bores are 1/2 thou over what they were last time but oh well.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Stock ECU (or more accurately stock tune) absolutely refuses to go over 10psi and behaves like you have seen. The Nistune is the same if it is the stock tune. If the Nistune chip has been tuned, the resulting tune could be literally anything for any combination of parts. The Nistune just makes the stock ECU Tunable.
    • So stock ECU does not like anything above 10 psi?  That Nistune one is just for "try" if it will be any different, I know it need to be tune for that. I know but YOU may know about these problem but i/we dont. They few little Skylines here let alone people who know anything about tham so that is why iam asking here  
    • So now we have a radiator with no attachments whatsoever. It lifts up with a particularly tight spot between the drivers side air box mount and the lower radiator outlet, but if you've got this far you will sort that too. This is the lower mounts with the rad out so you can see where the rubber bushes go, it is a straight shot upwards Done! Assembly is the reverse of disassembly, with blood less likely to be shed.
    • Right, onto the second last trick. The Air Con condenser is mounted to the front of the radiator and stays in the car when the radiator is removed. There are 2x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the condenser to the radiator, remove those The bottom of the condenser is attached to the radiator with clips. You need to lift the condenser out of those clips and clear (up, then forward). f**ked if  could work out how to do that last bit with the front bumper on. I hope you can, and you share the trick.  Bumper removal probably deserves its own thread one day once I've recovered the will to live, but basically you need to remove the wheels, front inner guard liners (clips and 10mm headed bolts), the self tapper between the guard and the bumper at the rearmost point of the bumper (same as an R32 that bit), any remaining clips at the top/front of the grill, an absolute bastard design with a plate that holds the top of the bumper above the headlight each side (only 1 bolt which is tricky to get to, but the plate catches 2 places on the bumper and must be removed....carefully!) and push clips between the bumper and guard under the headlight. If you've done all that you will be faced with wiring for the fog lights on both sides and in ADM Q50 RS at least, 4 nasty tight plugs on the driver's side for the ADAS stuff. So, the clips at the bottom look like this on drivers side (looking from the front) And on the passenger side (also from the front), you can see this one is already out Clearance on both of these are super tight; the condenser needs to move up but the upper rad support mount prevents that, and the radiator can't move down far because it is (rubber) mounted. Once you achieve the impossible and drop the condenser off those mounts so it does not stop the rad moving, you are good to go
    • OK, next the shroud needs to come off and there are a couple of tricks. Firstly, there is a loom from near the passenger side headlight to the fans, coolant temp sensor etc and there is no plug to undo.  In my case I was OK to leave the shroud on top of the engine so I just undid the passenger side fan plug and about 10 of the clips which gave enough free wire to put it aside. The fan plugs were super tight, the trick I used was a small falt screwdriver to push down on the release tab, then a larger flat screwdriver to lever the plug out of the fan unit....be careful with how much force you apply! If you need to remove the shroud altogether for some reason you will have to deal with all the plugs (tight) and clips (brittle)....good luck. I removed all of the clips and replaced them with cable ties that I will just cut next time. Also, in the Red Sport / 400R at least, the intake heat exchanger reservoir hose is bolted to the shroud in 2 places with 10mm headed bolts; so remove them (the hose stays in the car; no need to undo it at the t fittings down at the radiator lower mount. Once you've dealt with the HX hose and the wiring loom, there are 3x 10mm headed self tappers holding the top of the shroud to the radiator; remove those.   The shroud then lifts out of the bottom mounts where it sits on the radiator, up and onto the engine out of the way. Simples
×
×
  • Create New...