Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering for people who have a r34 turbo on a rb20, what psi are you running?

Currently im running 14psi, but have heard 16psi is safe as its on a smaller engine the turbo isnt spinning as hard?

Would be great if i could turn up to 16psi, but just want to make sure before trying it.

They are still ceramic exhaust wheel so im assuming they couldnt be pushed too hard...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257167-r34-turbo-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

im thinking it will spin the same when on full boost no matter what engine it is in.

i probably wouldnt push it

a larger displacement engine will produce more exhaust gasses.

Ive heard that because of this, the rb25 turbo on a rb20 can be dialed in to push more boost...

Although its all talk and wouldnt trust it unless someone can prove its safe.

i ran a R33 series 2 turbo on my R32 for nearly 2 years at 14psi daily driven without a problem. the turbo was still in good condition when i removed it. i know this isn't a R34 turbo but its close (both have ceramic turbine and nylon compressor).

These Nissan turbos are scary!

One more note on the comment about the power difference between 14 and 16psi..

I had my R33 Dyno'd on saturday for AFR purposes, and there was also an R32 with RB25 there.

For all intensive purposes, the modifications bolt on wise are the same, FMIC, Turbo back exhaust etc etc, only difference is my stuff is bling (Blitz, HKS etc) and his is China. Oh and he had a pod, and im using the Airbox.

Both running stock RB25 turbos.

(IGNORE the peak as its an NZ dyno and ours seem to read higher, but for the purpose of the topic its relavant as the two cars were run 1 after another)

His car made 216RWKW @ 14psi and a mild tune with a Link ECU.

Mine made 211RWKW @ 10psi with Stock ECU. My AFR's were off the chart :s Stock ECU fail!

5kw , Extra 4psi and a tune? Seems like the turbos working a shitload harder for sweet FA gain?

The only good thing about his was the tune made the car pull like a schoolboy in the midrange. It was incredible compared to mine. But top end from 4500ish RPM and over it was exactly the same.

Alot to read :) But something to consider. The turbos are small, and have to work exrtemely hard to make 12psi+ boost.

Edited by gotRICE?
4psi extra for 5rwkw extra yes..

but you're forgetting that you have 0.5L more capacity and 0.5 extra compression too.

My comparison was between two RB25s if you didnt notice.

And i would have thought also that an extra 5psi on a smaller engine, with less compression would make even less difference would it not?

being able to run higher pressures on a smaller engine makes sense if the ceramic wheels fail because of excessive rpm.

since the engine is smaller (smaller volume to fill) the turbocharger can rotate at lower rpm to produce a certain pressure.

heat will probably also be an issue. running lean even at a known 'safe' psi can end in high exhaust gas temperatures and premature turbo exhaust wheel failure.

I dont think theyre comparable at all.

Considering one has stock ECU and the other has a Link. Having a/m ECUs isnt an automatic +. Who knows what the tune was like...couldve been rubbish..

Considering the Tune was done by Andre @ Speedtech, who has many many sub 10 second drag cars under his belt, im sure the tune was just fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...