Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

Just wondering for people who have a r34 turbo on a rb20, what psi are you running?

Currently im running 14psi, but have heard 16psi is safe as its on a smaller engine the turbo isnt spinning as hard?

Would be great if i could turn up to 16psi, but just want to make sure before trying it.

They are still ceramic exhaust wheel so im assuming they couldnt be pushed too hard...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/257167-r34-turbo-on-rb20/
Share on other sites

im thinking it will spin the same when on full boost no matter what engine it is in.

i probably wouldnt push it

a larger displacement engine will produce more exhaust gasses.

Ive heard that because of this, the rb25 turbo on a rb20 can be dialed in to push more boost...

Although its all talk and wouldnt trust it unless someone can prove its safe.

i ran a R33 series 2 turbo on my R32 for nearly 2 years at 14psi daily driven without a problem. the turbo was still in good condition when i removed it. i know this isn't a R34 turbo but its close (both have ceramic turbine and nylon compressor).

These Nissan turbos are scary!

One more note on the comment about the power difference between 14 and 16psi..

I had my R33 Dyno'd on saturday for AFR purposes, and there was also an R32 with RB25 there.

For all intensive purposes, the modifications bolt on wise are the same, FMIC, Turbo back exhaust etc etc, only difference is my stuff is bling (Blitz, HKS etc) and his is China. Oh and he had a pod, and im using the Airbox.

Both running stock RB25 turbos.

(IGNORE the peak as its an NZ dyno and ours seem to read higher, but for the purpose of the topic its relavant as the two cars were run 1 after another)

His car made 216RWKW @ 14psi and a mild tune with a Link ECU.

Mine made 211RWKW @ 10psi with Stock ECU. My AFR's were off the chart :s Stock ECU fail!

5kw , Extra 4psi and a tune? Seems like the turbos working a shitload harder for sweet FA gain?

The only good thing about his was the tune made the car pull like a schoolboy in the midrange. It was incredible compared to mine. But top end from 4500ish RPM and over it was exactly the same.

Alot to read :) But something to consider. The turbos are small, and have to work exrtemely hard to make 12psi+ boost.

Edited by gotRICE?
4psi extra for 5rwkw extra yes..

but you're forgetting that you have 0.5L more capacity and 0.5 extra compression too.

My comparison was between two RB25s if you didnt notice.

And i would have thought also that an extra 5psi on a smaller engine, with less compression would make even less difference would it not?

being able to run higher pressures on a smaller engine makes sense if the ceramic wheels fail because of excessive rpm.

since the engine is smaller (smaller volume to fill) the turbocharger can rotate at lower rpm to produce a certain pressure.

heat will probably also be an issue. running lean even at a known 'safe' psi can end in high exhaust gas temperatures and premature turbo exhaust wheel failure.

I dont think theyre comparable at all.

Considering one has stock ECU and the other has a Link. Having a/m ECUs isnt an automatic +. Who knows what the tune was like...couldve been rubbish..

Considering the Tune was done by Andre @ Speedtech, who has many many sub 10 second drag cars under his belt, im sure the tune was just fine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
    • I'm not going to recommend an EBC pad. I don't like them. Just about anything else would suit me better. I've been using Intima pads for a while now.
    • Agreed, and in particular the earth strap that should go from the subframe to the chassis but it often broken or left off. There is a section in the R32 workshop manual you can follow for troubleshooting if you don't see anything suspicious, and depending where you are (there is no location on your user profile) you should be able to get your hands on a second hand replacement unit still if needed
    • Yeah they mention as a R34 for 2.5 Turbo...but then again thos "small" were also for R34 by that different site. But i look into it and that 310mm EBC is for R34 GTT. And by those you linked the specs are the same 🙂    EDIT: I found these on one site here: DBA 4000 series T3 DBA42304S They are 310mm...and it says are for R34GTT...are there good? EDIT2: ok they have pads too.  What "color" should i get for street use? I dont want/need some noisy ones...(and if they are not that dusty that is good too)
×
×
  • Create New...