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R33 Gts25t - Any Advice?

Mattw_83

By Mattw_83,
in Engines & Forced Induction

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Mattw_83 Community Regular

Mattw_83

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Lads.

Got a real tidy r33 gts25t series 2. When it was bog stock i had it dynoed. Made 157kw ATW.

Ive since installed r34 SMIC, 3 inch Catback Nismo Exhaust (high flow cat included). Reckon its fairly safe to give it another 2psi (with a decent dual stage controller) and a retune?

When they initially dynoed it the AFR's at high revs sat between 10 - 10.5? Is this ok?

Any advice is appreciated. I love the car, want to get a few more kilowatts without going nuts with front mounts etc etc.

Cheers,

Matt

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Mattw_83 Community Regular

Mattw_83

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what exactly are you tuning?

should invest in a dump/front pipe, which should see you pick up a few more kw.

been told if im not highflowing the turbo or running high boost there is no point getting turbo back exhaust. probably lose a fair bit of low end torque?

Im no mechanic to be honest... Running 10spi hurt her? Would i notice much of an increase. Exhaust did a little revs better. Looking for around 200 ATW ultimately

(OO)Firty Free(OO) Rising Star

(OO)Firty Free(OO)

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Posted
been told if im not highflowing the turbo or running high boost there is no point getting turbo back exhaust. probably lose a fair bit of low end torque?

Im no mechanic to be honest... Running 10spi hurt her? Would i notice much of an increase. Exhaust did a little revs better. Looking for around 200 ATW ultimately

Check the RB25 upgrade thread up top^^^^^plenty info there.

My car for example was the following.

152rwkw cat back zorst 11 psi

174rwkw 3 inch dump high flow cat 12psi (very good upgrade)

200 rwkw blitz FMIC and tune 12psi(standard computer massive dip around 5k)

202rwkw Power FC 10.5psi and upto 30rwkw better in the mid range.

All done on the same dyno. Hope this helps good luck with it.

PM-R33 Grand Master

PM-R33

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Posted
been told if im not highflowing the turbo or running high boost there is no point getting turbo back exhaust. probably lose a fair bit of low end torque?

Bullshit, whoever told you that is an idiot. The exhaust is the most restrictive part on these cars, doing a dump pipe upgrade (and a cat upgrade) is probably one of the best bang for buck mods that you can do. My car was stock with just a cat-back when i bought it, the dump pipe/cat was one of the first mods we did and it really woke the car up making it feel better throughout the rev range.

Im no mechanic to be honest... Running 10spi hurt her? Would i notice much of an increase. Exhaust did a little revs better. Looking for around 200 ATW ultimately

10psi will be fine, just make sure your plugs/coilpacks are up to scratch so you don't have missfire problems.

Mattw_83 Community Regular

Mattw_83

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Excellent. Front pipe it is. I can get my hands on a new Turbosmart Dual Boost Controller real cheap. Do the job for now? Coilpacks seem ok, no symptoms like anything ive read so far. last noob ignorant questions my apologies... (the input so far has been excellent cheers)

These POD filters ive seen, as opposed to the standard box with say an new HKS Filter thing, whats best? (im aware its apparently defectable though im not fussed to be honest). Its not going make the idle f**k up or anything like that? My mate had a r32 gtst with BOV (which i wont be upgrading) and pod filter etc nice car buts its idle was all over the place and would stall at traffic lights all the time when coasting to a stop. did my head in... the R33 is used now as a daily driver

the r34 SMIC sufficient for 200ATW? I want to avoid FMIC.

thanks again

Pal Veteran

Pal

Posted
Posted (edited)

10 to 10.5 on the AFR is to rich, need to get yourself at minimum a SAFC2 or aftermarket ECU and get it up to 11.5 to 12. save heaps of fuel to. on 10 psi you'll be making around 180 to 190 rwkw wiith the mods you got. keep the stock air box and put a good panel in it

Edited by Pal
SLY-25T Mentor

SLY-25T

Posted
Posted (edited)

the stalling problem ur mate had, i would sway towards BOV. i have an atmo BOV and apexi power intake pod. had stalling issues before but since cleaning my AAC valve (check DIY) i have had no dramas at all.

if u want a nice sucking sound on boost then get the pod, if u want it to stay quiet under the bonnet then just upgrade the panel filter.

hope this helps

Edited by auss13
PWND Grand Master

PWND

Posted
Posted
Excellent. Front pipe it is. I can get my hands on a new Turbosmart Dual Boost Controller real cheap. Do the job for now? Coilpacks seem ok, no symptoms like anything ive read so far. last noob ignorant questions my apologies... (the input so far has been excellent cheers)

These POD filters ive seen, as opposed to the standard box with say an new HKS Filter thing, whats best? (im aware its apparently defectable though im not fussed to be honest). Its not going make the idle f**k up or anything like that? My mate had a r32 gtst with BOV (which i wont be upgrading) and pod filter etc nice car buts its idle was all over the place and would stall at traffic lights all the time when coasting to a stop. did my head in... the R33 is used now as a daily driver

the r34 SMIC sufficient for 200ATW? I want to avoid FMIC.

thanks again

not just the front pipe. dump and front pipe combo.

pod filters can suffer from heat soak, so in fact can rob you of power.

get yourself a decent high flowing exhaust from the turbo back, boost controller and a safc, and you should be seeing 200rwkw with your smic.

got a few extra buck, fark the safc off, and get a power fc instead. you will be better off in the long track.

Ultimategtr Proficient

Ultimategtr

Posted
Posted
been told if im not highflowing the turbo or running high boost there is no point getting turbo back exhaust. probably lose a fair bit of low end torque?

Im no mechanic to be honest... Running 10spi hurt her? Would i notice much of an increase. Exhaust did a little revs better. Looking for around 200 ATW ultimately

I think the person who told you that you'l lose low end torque was slightly mistaken - Its the initial response you might lose. If you think about it, it makes sense, upgrading to a bigger dump means that theres just a little bit of extra volume to be filled by exhaust gases. You will not lose torque at all. More like it will increase your torque overall through out the rev-range.

Mattw_83 Community Regular

Mattw_83

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Get a full trubo back zorst... not a canon drony crap but a twin pipe.

Bought a 3inch split dump/front pipe today. JJR. Im gonna give installing it a go today. wish me luck. im pretty handy with the tools generally and watched them do the catback install. it was a piece of piss. Any suggestions? Ive got no hoist with this cause a major difficulty?

tridentt150v Grand Master

tridentt150v

Posted
Posted

Be easier with ramps or axle stands, if your going to get active with your car and do some of the work yourself then invest in ramps/stands. Ramps are probably a bit more stable and trustworthy, but stands are OK - I use both at different times.

[bTW I use a jack to lift the car and then slide my ramps under then lower the car back to them. The front bar is way too low otherwise]

Mattw_83 Community Regular

Mattw_83

Posted
  • Author
Posted
10 to 10.5 on the AFR is to rich, need to get yourself at minimum a SAFC2 or aftermarket ECU and get it up to 11.5 to 12. save heaps of fuel to. on 10 psi you'll be making around 180 to 190 rwkw wiith the mods you got. keep the stock air box and put a good panel in it

rich is safe for the engine though yeah? just chews more petrol?

WOG BOY Community Regular

WOG BOY

Posted
Posted

the jjr split dump and front pipe is a great mod....i got a series 2 r33 aswell mate.....got it bog stock like u...and my first mod was a full turbo back exhaust.....the performance increase was phenomenal...by the seat of that pants dyno, i really noticed it....i was tossin up between a pod and stock air box, but i jus got a k&n panel and went that way...safer, and flows jus as well....actually i find it works better than a pod.....

Guest jaysiin001

Guest jaysiin001

Posted
Posted
Check the RB25 upgrade thread up top^^^^^plenty info there.

My car for example was the following.

152rwkw cat back zorst 11 psi

174rwkw 3 inch dump high flow cat 12psi (very good upgrade)

200 rwkw blitz FMIC and tune 12psi(standard computer massive dip around 5k)

202rwkw Power FC 10.5psi and upto 30rwkw better in the mid range.

All done on the same dyno. Hope this helps good luck with it.

thats pretty good with 30kw in the mid range. might look into a new ecu as i have a stock ecu. got 187rwkw but feels too gutless down low. needs more power/torque

2LV8ETR Mentor

2LV8ETR

Posted
Posted
My mate had a r32 gtst with BOV (which i wont be upgrading) and pod filter etc nice car buts its idle was all over the place and would stall at traffic lights all the time when coasting to a stop. did my head in...

Tell your mate to get a hybrid BOV - Vents to atmo as well as plumbs back.

This will solve his problem.

Happens to most RB20's.

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