Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Mate you should try getting a straight answer from our wankers at regency, depending on what time and who u speak to you will get a different answer both times...They have NO idea!!!   :bs!:

thats what i figured so i was checking to see if anyone has ever got a REAL answer and then passed at a later date

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

thats what i figured so i was checking to see if anyone has ever got a REAL answer and then passed at a later date

Sorry Guys, As I am in NSW I can only give their regs, but as a thought, maybe speak to the guys at Jaustech or Japanese Motorsport.

As they are into modified cars, Jaustech in particular doe a few R30's, they might be more up to speed.

Good luck,

Dennis

I bought a GT30 turbo,turbosmart wastegate,s/hand mazda injectors,hybrid intercooler and Wolf ecu.Thats it.

Standard manifolds,head,cams,throttle body...all stock.It runs 18psi boost and BP98 fuel and is a rocket!

I cant wait to fit my Tomei 272 cams and put 25psi into it!

If thats all i have to do than im off to the wreckers to look for an fj20det, should of done it earlier.

What colour is your R30 Mike???  Its not Nissankings old R30 is it??  I've sen that thing getting round heaps lately, still looking tough as :)

nah i dont think it was, mine is the blue/silver color but at the moment it has alot of base coat on it as its almost ready for the resray...

hey guys, got an update. i put r31 shocks in the rear and new r30 ones in the front, and lowerd it on corbra's springs. not superlows just low. and well the front didnt even change at all hight. 10mm max!. even knowing these springs are rated to 20-30mm :P. and do i overcome the fact i only have 7cm of travel in my shocks.?

im confused

hey guys, got an update. i put r31 shocks in the rear and new r30 ones in the front, and lowerd it on corbra's springs. not superlows just low. and well the front didnt even change at all hight. 10mm max!. even knowing these springs are rated to 20-30mm :(. and do i overcome the fact i only have 7cm of travel in my shocks.?  

im confused

Ive got the same trouble.I converted my R30 struts to a height adjustible coilover setup and found when i lowered it to where i wanted it i would lose all my shock travel.(so now its jacked up like a landcruiser).

But i went to the susp shop for advice and he said he will replace the top mount(thick rubber housing the bearing) with a thin metal plate(my understanding) that will allow me to lower it and keep the travel. :looney:

Ive got the same trouble.I converted my R30 struts to a height adjustible coilover setup and found when i lowered it to where i wanted it i would lose all my shock travel.(so now its jacked up like a landcruiser).

But i went to the susp shop for advice and he said he will replace the top mount(thick rubber housing the bearing) with a thin metal plate(my understanding) that will allow me to lower it and keep the travel.  :looney:

Hey!!! Didn't anybody read my earlier post on lowering, #351?????

Due to the lack of travel in the damper, to lower an R30 front and rear, it is necessary to use R31 Strut inserts because they have a 42mm shorter travel and R31 rear shocks have a 32mm shorter travel in the damper.

But if you use good springs, like I have 250 lb/in front & 200 lb/in rear the travel nearly is obliterated, the springs hardly move.

My Hr30 has JIC coilovers from Japan and are physically 50mm shorter than the corresponding front or rear strut / shock assembly and the fronts have camber tops on them.

Hey guys, i have an MR30 sedan, currently installing an RB20DET, looks like a nighmare to wire up, apparently the g/box mounts should bolt up... Its bolted in, but still not wired up.

I ve painted the car in 2pak, gold and put R33 disks and 4 piston calipers on front, std rear disks, adj. coilovers, fibreglass front bar, strut brace, nolathane bushes, series 1 dr30 tail lights, 16x8 watanabe's (no rubbing problems running 245/45/16), bolton 20mm spacers and a few other things. Im sure i'll run into some problems while hooking up the RB20 tho

pictures - http://www.pbase.com/crimmo

dr30turbo - if you get 2 front struts with your HR30 from paul, they will bolt in no worries, i bought the koni shocks brand new and the springs are heavy duty pedders, all came out of my car when i converted to big brakes and coilovers, they handle very well.

Hey, Crimmo about those konies... are they red or yellow? i got those off paul but like a day after paul gave them to me they leaked oil on the ground. i wasn't sure weather to put them in or not it seemed a bit dodgey. i don't know what to do i mean are they sealed or could i get more fluid for them or something.

Hey, Crimmo about those konies... are they red or yellow? i got those off paul but like a day after paul gave them to me they leaked oil on the ground. i wasn't sure weather to put them in or not it seemed a bit dodgey. i don't know what to do i mean are they sealed or could i get more fluid for them or something.

Hey R30_Turbo, the leak is nothing to worry about, the koni insert slides into the strut case, and the koni insert itself is sealed and thats not what is leaking, all struts have a small amount of oil in the bottom of them to lubricate the shock absober insert, they are adjustable koni red's 'special' :)

Try to leave them sitting upright and they wont leak. The sleave that screws into the top may need tightening, by when they are in the car they never leak, unless you roll the car! :D

hey guys can u get aftermarket pulleys for FJ20ET's? the main crank pulley on mine i think is ok but the other 2 behind for alternator and a/c move up and down on the crank shaft heaps more than they should.

is there any like aftermarket pulleys of some sort you can get? or better to replace with originals? (ne1 got any spare? haha)

Hey Stu,

have you wired up your RB20 yet. I sat down last night and tried to figure out the RB25. and i came to a conclusion. i know nothing about EFI cars. for example what does an ECCS relay do. question is are you doing yours yourself or are you using a conversion shop. :Bang:

got it all wired up bar the rpm...

my dad knows whats goin on so hes helping me (read : doing most of it) to wire it up

what do u need to know about the 25 i may be of assistance....or hinderance.

what has everyone done in respect to cooler piping?? i mean if your using a f*ck off big frontmont then are u running the "cooler to TB" pipe over the radiator or under?

if u get what i mean? maybe not.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...