Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Sorry for intrupting, but I did an unsucessful search for MR30 dash.

The dash is in good nick ie no cracks its grey and Silver but the silver (where the aircon fan dial and radio and inner gauge surround are) is all worn and needs to be resprayed has anyone done this I would just paint it apart from the fact the dial settings are painted on the silver. Any thoughts? How good does it look black?

Another question I need a cheap rear wing $150 - 200 preferable low, the is none at my local wreakers so I need to know what car is best to look for one off? R32 or is there a better one that fits on the R30 that is easy to get?

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

yeh ive had to get another one of them, cos the black paint around the ashtray and stuff chipped off and looked gross. just plastic prime it and put a few coats of silver or black over it.

dunno about keeping the decals on though

The POVERTY PACKS have a black background, but they are only available from BROWN interiors.

I am going to use them and change the colour of the trim to maybe carbon fibre look, or just paint them to suit my BLACK dash.

has anybody got any spare grills???

mine was damaged in an accident and was either an early DR grill (non-iron mask) or a HR grill. either way all the grills i have looked at are horrid, the only good one being the latter '84 onwards 'Nissan' off an MR30. but unless i flogg one off my mates car or the car down the road i can't get one.

has anybody got any spare grills???

mine was damaged in an accident and was either an early DR grill (non-iron mask) or a HR grill. either way all the grills i have looked at are horrid, the only good one being the latter '84 onwards 'Nissan' off an MR30. but unless i flogg one off my mates car or the car down the road i can't get one.

i have a grill from a 82 mr30 its charcol and sliver in good nic!

towards the interior, mines red on black with a creamie/blue roof trim??? will be changing the roof trim to the trim from the 5door. the dash is black/charcol...

can u show me what it looks like?

if i can't get anything ill just go to the wrecker and buy the shit ugly one and chop it down, put mesh in it

What sort of grille are you looking for????

The early stock 5 row, or later 3 row, or Iron Mask. :ghost:

not iron mask, the 5 row ones are the ugly ones, but i reckon i could cut it down and bog/glass it into a 1 piece, fit some mesh and have a GTRish grill,

wrecker wants $45 for it, is that reasonable? nothing special not in immaculate condition.

the 3 row is ok, but i had this one originally,

AA010.txt

not iron mask' date=' the 5 row ones are the ugly ones, but i reckon i could cut it down and bog/glass it into a 1 piece, fit some mesh and have a GTRish grill,

wrecker wants $45 for it, is that reasonable? nothing special not in immaculate condition.

the 3 row is ok, but i had this one originally,

[img']http://www.geocities.com/sr20detrx/mr30/AA010.txt[/img][/QUOT

I have something similar in the front of my HR30, but was going to use it in my MR to sell it. it's a 2 bar with honeycomb type fill, but the only pics I have are to big to attach. Send me an email and I will attach a pic for you to see.

If I let it go, I would have to get something to replace it, and not necessarily imported.

I will go look around and see what I can find in the town.

Let me know if your interested. :ghost:

i've seen the grill your talking of ghostrider and there very nice, i think jaustech had a hr30 coupe with the grill in question and an rb20det for sale for $12000. it looks like the one on the r31 s3 siloette i think?? view attachment!!

not iron mask, the 5 row ones are the ugly ones, but i reckon i could cut it down and bog/glass it into a 1 piece, fit some mesh and have a GTRish grill,  

wrecker wants $45 for it, is that reasonable? nothing special not in immaculate condition.

the 3 row is ok, but i had this one originally,

AA010.txt

i have to say this

that is one nice looking 4 door!

needs rb power though :wave:

PHaT,

Your car would look cool with the DR front spoiler

are you meaning yours?

I would love one, if i could get one before it goes in to be 'Resprayed yet again' would be a bit easier to fit etc, if i could get a time frame, i might even wait

has anybody used any msd ingition products on there mr30 l24e or similar.  

if so can u please tell me what you used and where u got it from.  

thanks josh

i wouldn't go crazy with MSD gear. really u need to choose your computer first then adapt the CAS to the dizzy and i guess the cheapest way to get coil on plug would be to rob them off an RB20/25. u do realise that anyway you go its gonna cost anywhere from $2K upwards and you are not gonna get a great power increase, until you go radical and do as i said earlier with the cam etc

i have to say this  

that is one nice looking 4 door!  

needs rb power though :wave:

tomj thats pic doesn't really do justice for the car! in the sunlight, particularly after washing it it almost comes up a metallic gold/green!

the ride height doesn't help too much

i no longer have those wheels, they are on a lancer, i have simmons V5's that are getting resprayed gold

i was considering putting an RB25 in it at one stage but ended up buying the silvia, the engine in it is no slug however.

need a little help, you know the fuses! there is a relay at the bottom left that i'm missing, the very bottom left as you look down (all by itself). i have no referance to work from to replace it so i'm asking if someone could post any details from thier cars to help me replace it!!

Cheers.matt...

need a little help, you know the fuses! there is a relay at the bottom left that i'm  missing, the very bottom left as you look down (all by itself). i have no referance to work from to replace it so i'm asking if someone could post any details from thier cars to help me replace it!!

Cheers.matt...

In the engine bay, next to the firewall??????

If you are above it looking over the o/s/f guard and it sits below the light relay on it's own, like at the bottom below 2 other relays, you don't need it unless your an AUTOMATIC (heaven forbid matthew) because it's the inhibitor relay, according to the manual.

But if you are looking at it from the n/s/f guard and it has some wires connected at the side of it, it is the horn relay.

Does this help?

You should have a manual, I got a spare that I got with my car if your interested. :ghost:

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The downside of this is when you try to track the car, as soon as you hit ABS you get introduced to a unbled system. I want to avoid this. I do not want to bleed/flush/jack up the car twice just to bleed the f**kin car.
    • But again, the engineers said your cast aluminium would be fine based on the load that would be stretching that section. Same load stretching the bolts in a flex (not the twist), with a much smaller cross sectional area than the original part you've broken. It's why you'd need to be using higher strength bolts, but that's just making up for the strength you lose with less area...
    • I am truly amazed someone on this planet was able to cycle the pump using a scan tool. I've always ghetto cycled them on Nissan 90s shit boxes by slamming the brakes and pulling the handbrake to agitate the rear wheels enough to cause a speed difference
    • I didn't actually try it at the time but a Launch X431 with the appropriate software licenses/upsell will have the ABS bleed function. The Consult II you can still find some old sets of equipment but they're really, really expensive:   
    • Well I'll start by saying I'm not an engineer. I am going to go with the KiwiCNC ones.  They are made of 7050 alloy have good fillets and radius.  The material alone is in the order of double the strength and fatigue resistance - Those bolts, once torqued correctly place most of the load at the flat face of the mating surface - the 'stretch' you're talking about through torqueing them up would be far more than the extra stretch 'load' placed on them from a steering input or bump. (in my opinion) so I doubt they would flinch.    - but again "not an engineer".      oh and I don't think stitch welding 7050 is a good idea, likely just weaken the material (from what I read)
×
×
  • Create New...