Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

i can supply pics of my 4 door, just recently been painted but ive been a bit slack and not taken any photos.

also i tried asking in another section but didnt get much response. is a newer r200 diff centre able to go into a z31/r30 r200 housing?

Yes it can mike, but all the new LSD's are viscous and not worth sh!t for what we do.

The ratios are fairly high as well. I have a manual R32, S13 one here for next to nothing, cost me over $400 but will be glad to see the end of it. It's 3.692:1

adam_rsx - mine is one peice rubber lip. it doesnt extend that far it basically is like, from a side on view, like this --> |/

if u get it .. haha like sortof triangular, thinish rubber that bolts underneath by heaps of screws and goes around the side a bit, about 1/3 of the way back towards the wheel arch from the front.

haha hard to describe, but sounds more like the GTS-R thing to me? rubber lip, one peice, bolts on !

Yes it can mike, but all the new LSD's are viscous and not worth sh!t for what we do.

The ratios are fairly high as well. I have a manual R32, S13 one here for next to nothing, cost me over $400 but will be glad to see the end of it. It's 3.692:1

whats the differance between viscous and mechanical? all i want is for both wheels to move when i launch as im not a drift man. my current ratio is 3.77:1 on an r200 open wheeler and seems quite good. how much we talkin for the diff mate, and is it just a centre?

viscous suposed to work harder in a strait line on hard[good grip] surface or long gravel/ice roads.when cornering and in softer stuff[sand ice] the idea is the work like a tourque convertor and dont overload the wheel with grip.

Ive see 2 types one locks harder if the diff center liquid heats up.so there is no preload as such and one wheel free spins.

GTS-R had a one piece rubber bar/lip I think, I'm pretty sure that yours isnt one of them.  Looks more like the fixed fibreglass lip that some R31 guys fit... how far back does it extend?

some japanese and exported R31 have a small strip bolted[2 piece] under the apron.in africa it comes with a/c to add air flow.like honda prelues.

Since I know a bit on HR31's,I'll chuck 2c in. :(

The lip that lowers itself (Autospoiler) was standard on GTS-X's,and option on GTS. The GTS-R lower lip is a similar shape,but extends right round the 'corner' to the end of the bar.The GMS HR31 race cars had a one piece bar,that looks like a lowered Autospoiler(but its fixed,being 1 piece) There were also a couple of aftermarket "lips" as well,and no doubt Nismo/Autech,etc options as well. ;)

GHOSTRIDER:- what oil did you say you used in your diff? Some kind of full synthetic I think?

How does it preform? I assume you still use a stock mech centre?

And is your HR30 on the road at the moment?

tar

Yes it can mike, but all the new LSD's are viscous and not worth sh!t for what we do.

The ratios are fairly high as well. I have a manual R32, S13 one here for next to nothing, cost me over $400 but will be glad to see the end of it. It's 3.692:1

and everything lines up cool and the axels fit ok too? my life just got alot better if its true.

Since I know a bit on HR31's,I'll chuck 2c in. :)

The lip that lowers itself (Autospoiler) was standard on GTS-X's,and option on GTS. The GTS-R lower lip is a similar shape,but extends right round the 'corner' to the end of the bar.The GMS HR31 race cars had a one piece bar,that looks like a lowered Autospoiler(but its fixed,being 1 piece) There were also a couple of aftermarket "lips" as well,and no doubt Nismo/Autech,etc options as well. :)

GHOSTRIDER:- what oil did you say you used in your diff? Some kind of full synthetic I think?

How does it preform? I assume you still use a stock mech centre?

And is your HR30 on the road at the moment?

tar

1. Mobil 75W/90 full synthetic is the oil. It performs as well as Royal Purple, Penrite, Castrol etc and is readily available for top up when necessary.

2. My R200 4.1:1 is a mechanical CUSCO centre LSD with 80 odd lb preload and I have a Nissan 3.9:1 as a spare.

3. No! the car is not on the road at present, but as soon as it is I'm heading your way sort of, got to see a mate on The Gold Coast.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • For once a good news  It needed to be adjusted by that one nut and it is ok  At least something was easy But thank you very much for help. But a small issue is now(gearbox) that when the car is stationary you can hear "clinking" from gearbox so some of the bearing is 100% not that happy... It goes away once you push clutch so it is 100% gearbox. Just if you know...what that bearing could be? It sounding like "spun bearing" but it is louder.
    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
×
×
  • Create New...