Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 2k
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

A set of MR30 panels and lights will cost you $200 and get it on the road, and will only take you an hour to swap over when you get the Tekamon stuff

Hows about no?? It left the road as a tekaman and its coming back as one as well!! Besides, im to lazy to swap panels around again, i just want to do it once and thats it!!

Besides that, the longer its off the road for, the more stuff that is getting bought for it!! My cooler is getting modified in the next week or 2 and hopefully i'll have that wastegate and manifold in the next few weeks as well!! Should be some fun soon :)

All thats different is the bonnet, lights, grille and filler panel, and the bonnet catch support

I'll continue to enjoy driving mine :rofl:

I do have a Tekamon bonnet, lights, filler panel spare atm, plus a set of guards

Hey, if you have the takemon bits spare, would you be interested in selling them?

I have an MR30, and want a takemon front end. are the gaurds any diferent to MR30?

All thats different is the bonnet, lights, grille and filler panel, and the bonnet catch support

I'll continue to enjoy driving mine :P

I do have a Tekamon bonnet, lights, filler panel spare atm, plus a set of guards

Wouldn't wanna lend me some stuff till i get mine would ya :) carn i know ya do :P

TEKAMON Vs STANDARD Fronts

For those that are wanting a performance vehicle?

The DRAG co efficients of both fronts are Tekamon/Iron Mask 0.37 yet the standard front with large head lights etc has 0.46.

Some perspective is the Z32 300ZX has a drag co efficient of 0.32.

The lower the number the less air drag.

TEKAMON Vs STANDARD Fronts

For those that are wanting a performance vehicle?

The DRAG co efficients of both fronts are Tekamon/Iron Mask 0.37 yet the standard front with large head lights etc has 0.46.

Some perspective is the Z32 300ZX has a drag co efficient of 0.32.

The lower the number the less air drag.

Interesting,but also for consideration for those wanting a performance vehicle would be air flow to intercooler,radiator,oil cooler,etc....Surley the early style front would be better in that regard?

BTW,the mighty HR31 would have to have a pretty good drag c/e ,having flush fitting side glass,etc? Wouldn't have any figures on them would you?

I could... just dont put em through a shop :D

One guard is white and one guard is sorta gold though

Guards im not interested, neither a bumper, just headlights, filler panel and type c spoiler..im meant to have some coming last i heard they were being sent last week but i haven't heard anything since then*shrugs* who knows..If your willing to lend them rad, speed the process up, if not sall cool cool

Interesting,but also for consideration for those wanting a performance vehicle would be air flow to intercooler,radiator,oil cooler,etc....Surley the early style front would be better in that regard?

BTW,the mighty HR31 would have to have a pretty good drag c/e ,having flush fitting side glass,etc? Wouldn't have any figures on them would you?

There is an excellent article in Autospeed this issue about airflow through the coolers and believe it or not, it has nearly SFA to do with the size of the front opening (grille area) that determins the amount of airflow.

It has everything to do with the amount of pressure in the engine bay and how successfully you disperse it.

Lift the back of the bonnet about a cm and you will be surprised how much difference is in the airflow.

I am getting a couple of the gauges that measure the pressures and do the tests myself and then I will let everyone know the outcome.

DRAG, has an effect at 1 kph, but a much greater effect at over 100.

Take these "shopping trolley handles" that are on Hyundai Excel's for instance, a mate took the one off his misses's car and got an improvemrnt in fuel economy of over 5% and it has never been over 80 kph in it's life.

Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm normally copping my own abuse from neglecting my daily drivers. "Those suspension bushes will last a bit more", "Don't worry about the oil leak, just keep topping it up". The project cars I'm always doing things slowly on them as I'm wanting them to be done better, and neater, and nicer. Luckily I don't have to deal with 18 year old Matt's "Learning to wire" stuff in the project cars. And there's only one piece of wiring I'm displeased about in the Landcruiser, and it's about to be cut out... However, the box loads of parts that have been going through this place lately for the Landcruiser... Brake pads Brake Rotors Full handbrake overhaul Wheel Bearings Seals Swivel hubs Steering Boxes Half the suspension joints Shocks Air bags (Ones to go in the rear springs for towing) Water pump Timing kit Lower timing case Harmonic Balancer Radiator Lots of other little seals and shits Gas struts for the bonnet New power window switches And god knows what else I've forgotten... Ha ha ha I have my fingers crossed the pinion seals don't start leaking on the diffs, that the transfer case doesn't leak, and the gearbox input shaft doesn't leak, nor the rear main seal. As they're about the only seals I haven't replaced in the driveline! I'm seriously eyeing off buying new caliper rebuild kits front and rear brake calipers... I'll probably recheck all the valve clearances soon too, and hopefully, it should be all good and sweet to haul some long distance trips again!
    • Every time I pull my 3x gauges out of the console and see the crack-addict way that I did the wiring, and I just can't bring myself to tear it all apart and "make it nice", because it is currently working. In fact, the last time I was in there I probably made it worse.
    • The best part is when you own the car long enough that you look back and find your OWN ham fisted amateur shit!
    • The annoying part about neglect, is when you start to replace one thing, and find ten more broken things. Ham fisted monkey repairs you normally only find out about when trying to do something unrelated! Ha ha   Neglect you can kind of anticipate the huge costs to fix it all. Ham fistedness is normally a shock the first time your work on a new old car, as everything "looked" good before.
    • For DBA, check out their guide table here. https://dba.com.au/wp-content/uploads/2023/01/Direct_Replacement-Guide-2021.2.pdf   Additionally they have some other guides and info on how to make sure you choose the right pad.
×
×
  • Create New...