Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HRMMM, now Trent tunes E85 its time for me to change my fuel, 300rwkw here I come! Gotta love wank factor!

PS. I still love your car, 2nd fav R33 behind a close friends, both are insane but my loyalty must stay with my mate or he will get all emoitional :)

You still have better rims, but dont tell him I said that :D

  • Replies 489
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Cant wait to see your results. I wanted a 300rwkw std RB20 :) But looks like you will get there first. i have upgraded my fuel system so i should be able to make it, had a 10cm housing for the 20G, have the new Plazmaman inlet and 6boost manifold...so i had enough new/better stuff to hve made it.

Still mega keen to be running this stuff when i get back

so far the car is running on corona struts with commo springs, xt130 lca's, lock spacers, 15x8 -9 ajps challengers, and flared guards

the car has a flat front conversion, and is getting a spraycan satin black job soon

motor is currnetly a 4ac in an AE71 crossmember, AE71 radiator & thermofan, and webber carby

gearbox is a t50 and the diff is an AE71 item welded shut.

new motor going in is a 4agte (ze block with custom turbo and cooler setup) with toda cams/gears should see around 150-160rwkw and car is getting stripped and caged

car will also be getting swaybars and possibly coiliver conversion....

ecu will be mocrotech... probably

will get pics up at some stage soon

fark yeah that will be barrels of fun with the turbo motor :P

if I get one in the future I will leave it NA... but only because I love the sound of an off its head 4age... the GTR is for going fast in a straight line anyway ;)

sif leave n/a... :)

i thought about going n/a with quaddies, but i want a little more bang, n/a with quaddies, cams, camgears and ecu might see you to 120rwkw :down:

@150rwkw & 850kgs its about the same as a full weight 33gtst with 240rwkw btw

NYTSKY,

Is it your boost controller perhaps....the boost curve seems lazy when it comes onto boost as well....only making peak boost at 4900 rpm and immediately starts declining.

Yeah agreed. You have a 3litre right? Should be getting full boost after 3000rpm. I made full boost 19psi on my 3076r IW on stock 2.5L at 3900rpm. When you get that sorted out it will feel so much better. Does it feel laggy?

  • 4 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...

ok so we finally got round to what you were all waiting for...

98ron and e85 back to back, same dyno, same tuner, same day, same boost

the car made 280rwkw on BP ultimate 98 and 320 on united e85

very happy with the results as it's a very safe tune.... pulled 2 deg timing out of the top end and only lost 5kw, fixed all the cruise and idle issues, cleaned up a boost spike and got the car running absolutely perfectly.

my thanx again go out to trent & cat @ status tuning, who always go well out of their way to make sure my car is perfect! :)

all graphs are in sae correction mode so the results are the same as dyno dynamics in shoot 6

med_gallery_36777_3194_124976.jpg

med_gallery_36777_3194_29295.jpg

med_gallery_36777_3194_64781.jpg

med_gallery_36777_3194_73268.jpg

sorry if its been covered but why the ~200rpm difference in reaching full boost? actually different with e85 or just different ramp rate on the dyno?

interesting results, wish one of the servos would hurry up and start selling some over here, keen to experiment

Stock internals with 320rwkw, you would think this push's the limit a bit, but the more I think about it it...

You can make big power with engines but there is no head room if anything were to go wrong and the engine not blasting itself to pieces.. So a good e85 tune will never see detonation.

I would be interested in seeing this engine being pushed to 400rwkw with e85... as long as the rod bolts hold up it should be good :)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,  I am in the market for an R200 longnose diff out of a Z31 300ZX, or S12 RSX, DR30 skyline, or similar, in a 3.9 ratio.  Preferably a late model one with the M12 crownwheel bolts.  The only easy to find advert for one of these was my ad back in 2007 when I sold it on this forum.  I sold the diff as I had sold the car it goes to, but as it turns out, after 18 years I got the car back late last year, so now I'm looking for the diff !  If anyone knows where to find a longnose R200 LSD with the M12 crownwheel bolts, drop me a line at [email protected] - Bonus paid if soomeone comes up with the original diff (stranger things have happened !).  Cheers   Ben D    
    • Hi everyone, I used to post here a bit from 2004-2013, when I owned various Nissans, in particular my S12 RSX gazelle, which was sold in 2007.  As luck would have it, after an 18 year hiatus, the car found its way back to me last year, and over the past 11 months I have had the pleasure of restoring it with my kids.  One thing that I am after in particular is a 3.9 ratio R200 LSD for it.  I actually sold the one out of the car here back in 2007 , and it would be incredible if I could track down who I sold it to, so I can see how they have progressed over the years (and to be honest, to see whether I can get the diff back !).  Anyways, hi all and let me know "where are the R200 Longnose diffs all at these days ?  Cheers Ben D  
    • Arms will be the same as the G35 or 350Z, but as above, there was a change in the lower control arm where it connects to the ball joint.  That said, you can remove the ball joint cone from your old ball joints and fit them to the new ball joints.  To be honest, I didn't think the ball joints themselves were different. The main ball joint is a bit awkward to replace, you really need to remove the steering knuckle to press out the old one.  Some people have used tools to remove it in place, but it just seemed too hard to get to. If you are going to press out/in that ball joint, then you may as well just replace the bushings in the LCA and the compression rod.  You can buy the compression rod bushing from Nissan, but the LCA bushes, you will need to go aftermarket. Much cheaper than buying the whole arm.
    • Ha, well, it's been.... a bit of a journey. Things have taken much longer than I'd hoped. I'll probably put up a thread at some stage. Hopefully soon. The car's not done any kms since my update in June though, put it that way.
    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
×
×
  • Create New...