Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ok this has been a long 5 month but its nearly dun its on its way to adelaide to boost worx for wirering and tuning mods r i thinck there a few more thing cant remeber so wat power could it be able to put out and how much can a stock box take

post-43842-1235659659_thumb.jpgpost-43842-1235659963_thumb.jpgpost-22250-1124707175.jpg

custom 3&half inch zaust

exedy 3puk clutch

tomie oil baffel

nismo group a turbos bathurst days

jjr oil catch can

cams

adjustible cam gears

gates racing timing belt kit

alc race bearing bigend and conrod

tomie pistons

jun rods

arp bolts

balanced r33 crank

sard 700cc injectors

sard fuel regulater

meatal head gasket

power fc de jetro & hand controller

greedy pro spec 2 boost controller

tomie fuel rail

clear timing cover

k&n pods

100mm thick front mount

splitfire coil packs

post-43842-1235660182_thumb.jpg

Edited by fab34
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/258837-rb26dett-conversion-into-r34gtt/
Share on other sites

is yours a RWD or 4WD GTT ?

any traction issues? lol

you running the standard GTR turbos or are they N1s.

gearbox should hold around 280-300rwkw considering its in good health.

got a rough ballpark figure of this conversion from start to finish?

this is something i wanna achieve sometime.

is yours a RWD or 4WD GTT ?

any traction issues? lol

you running the standard GTR turbos or are they N1s.

gearbox should hold around 280-300rwkw considering its in good health.

got a rough ballpark figure of this conversion from start to finish?

this is something i wanna achieve sometime.

firstly you would be pretty dumb to put in a second hand engine...

for reliability you want to freshen up the engine, decent rebuild cost u 10k...

for a properly converted car you could get away with it for 25k thats probably wiv a freshen up, excluding buying a gtr engine

its expensive, believe me

We did a rb26 conversion nearly a year ago into a r34 gts4 so he could retain the 4wd, he supplied the engine and most other parts, in total his bill was approx 7k, wiring was prob the hardest part our wiring guru had his hands full but fired first turn key. really nice car to drive now its had most things in a hks cataloge thrown into it.

yea buy the time im finished with the wiring and tuning just over 20k so im looking 4 330rwkw 4 now till i get better gearbox

and yes there just standard turbos if thats wat they used in the godzillas in bathurst

I did all my own work my conversion was on a stagea, did not rebuild the 26 as it didnt need a rebuild have twin hks low mounts and dumps and front pipe pfc 100mm cooler 600cc injectors good street setup nice driver with twin plate clutch all up cost was 9.5k including buying the motor and box

We did a rb26 conversion nearly a year ago into a r34 gts4 so he could retain the 4wd, he supplied the engine and most other parts, in total his bill was approx 7k, wiring was prob the hardest part our wiring guru had his hands full but fired first turn key. really nice car to drive now its had most things in a hks cataloge thrown into it.
what are the main wiring issues... im building one for my GTST

Thanks l'co. The engine we did this conversion on was from an r33 GTR. The main wiring issues were in combining the two looms. I try to do things pretty spot on and if it don't look like it should be there it ain't goin into 1 of our customers' cars. You've all seen those conversions with plugs that aren't connected hanging around and such. There are alot of inputs to an r34 ecu that just aren't there on an r33 gtr ecu. The only real issue was to swap things like the abs motor wiring and a couple of other things that escape my mind this instant and integrate them in the 33 loom. Admittedly, in the process the r34 loom was sacrificed for the better good. Anyway other than that, there's the obvious inclusion of the gtr injector resistor pack, a few alternative wiring modifications for the fuel pump relay (the gtr utilises a fuel pump control module) wire it up to power and hey presto! Basically if you have a decent amount of experience in reading wiring diagrams and fair soldering skills, you could probably do this job (given the time) as well. Just remember MINUS goes to red and PLUS goes to black, right? TIC. BTW All the wiring diagrams and all the info you need are/is on this forum.

yea mines rwd so im gona hav issues with grip a i still got stock rims and only 235s on her and bad camber

so itll kinda be like my mates rb20det s13 . doesnt even throw you back in the seat before its spinning . what a waste

solid center clutch or sprung ?

solid center mate and yes its goin to be a bit of a waste 4 now but every thing takes time and wheels and tyers and gear box r the next thing on the list

Edited by fab34
firstly you would be pretty dumb to put in a second hand engine...

for reliability you want to freshen up the engine, decent rebuild cost u 10k...

for a properly converted car you could get away with it for 25k thats probably wiv a freshen up, excluding buying a gtr engine

its expensive, believe me

its not dumb if its a R34 GTR or Vspec motor.

good job mate, stock rims = lots of smoke & tyre frying lol

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...