Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

G'day pals,

I have just manage to aquire a rubby duckie zodiac boat! its a sweet fun little thing that im planning on strapping to the roof bars of my stag with the Ryno roof racks i have, i just have a slight concern with the weight on the roof and if the bars can handle it. Id say the weight of the boat is probably about 60kgs or so... opinions?

:D add one more use to the already huge list for the stag... its a boat trailer!!

post-40810-1236127732_thumb.jpgpost-40810-1236127876_thumb.jpg

post-40810-1236127884_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/259541-roof-bars-maximum-load-capacity/
Share on other sites

The bars are very solid and heavy, 60kg is nothing spread over both bars, considering there are 6 mounting points. I would have no hesitation putting 2-3 times this on the roof.
Yep I have had excessive amounts of particle board and timber on my roof - at least 300kg...makes it sway a bit on the corners!

I dont know what the load rating on those bars are.....but Kiwi, all i can say to that is OMG thats alot!

Yep I have had excessive amounts of particle board and timber on my roof - at least 300kg...makes it sway a bit on the corners!

rb26stagea here: I'm on a mate's computer... I have removed the roof bars from my car, and I can tell you they are extremely solid: they are steel underneath the plastic coating - you should have no issues with a small inflatable on them. I estimate they weigh at least 15kg each. worst case, if you were to bend them (VERY unlikely), I have a set sitting here that I am willing to part with. That said, you should not have any issues at all...

rb26stagea here: I'm on a mate's computer... I have removed the roof bars from my car, and I can tell you they are extremely solid: they are steel underneath the plastic coating - you should have no issues with a small inflatable on them. I estimate they weigh at least 15kg each. worst case, if you were to bend them (VERY unlikely), I have a set sitting here that I am willing to part with. That said, you should not have any issues at all...

i'd dare say he'd be more concerned with distorting the roof etc with excessive loads than bending bars

I've had lots of building material on mine- timber, cement sheets, villaboard etc easily 200kg without a problem.

I think you will be limited to the safe loading capacity of the ROOF RACKS that you attach onto the roof bars than the roof bars themselves.

.......I have removed the roof bars from my car.........

Hey Green Ghost,

Have you replaced the gaps left by removing the r.racks with something?

I've heard people talk about getting a plastic molded strip or something thats

made for the stags...you got something like this???

I would mind removing mine, don't use them.

Pete

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This is the territory of the "Stage 1/2/3 Golf GTI/R" or otherwise off the shelf tune with (relative to before) minor mods. It's easier now. Downpipe and Tune and boom, big increases. Stage 1 OEM+ is where it's at. This is where the niche evolved into and it's really easy to see why. It's rare to even NEED to consider changing turbos or going to aftermarket ECU's or building bottom ends for more power. Stage 1-2-3 will get you a LONG WAY. Civic Type R turbo GR Yaris/Corolla Anything with B58 (MKV Supra/x40i) Anything BMW in General Anything Audi in General Any turbo AMG RenaultSport Turbo offerings Korean Elantra N/I30N Ecoboost Mustangs Focus RS? List goes on. I would argue in the future it won't even need to go on... M3P is pretty rapid out of the box...
    • There is a way, but it's not with the same cars. You need to find the same vintage of car, that we had. Realistically, that was an affordable car with aftermarket parts around. So what people need to find is a car that had a decent base in its day, and can be modified. They're looking for a car year make of 2010 to 2015 really... Aus could have done it if Holden didn't fold as V8 commodores were cheap, and if Ford didn't get expensive thanks to COVID, then you could cheaply play with FG Barras. Realistically, those are just a bit heavier, four door skylines. I'm sure the US and UK have similar cars they could find.
    • Haha I do that.. thats when it chirps..The bit point for me is almost non-existent. Otherwise I stall it. But yes, in terms of performance, the clutch is solid af.
    • Greg speaks wisdom. These dirty old Datsuns are only value when they are cheap. When they are not cheap, there is no value. Sounds contradictory, but it's true. We are now 20 years past the hey day of modifying cheap 90s JDM cars for small amounts of money. This is a different world. If you are rich and can afford not to care about what is effectively wasting money on an old Datto shitter, then I have no reason to argue against it. But if you are wanting to experience what we all experienced back in 2005 (and I bought my car last century!) then there is no way to do it.
    • Short answer: No. Medium answer: No, because you still need to conjure the things out of thin air to bolt them to a NA to make it a NA+T. Long Answer: No - The things you need to conjure - meaning a turbo, intercooling, manifolds, exhaust, intake/manifold/piping, clutch, injectors, fuel pump, AFM (?), ECU + Wiring (woo, N/A loom fun) have to come from somewhere. You could have many scavenged these things from an OEM car that someone had upgraded from and use some of these. This will be cost prohibitive now, especially so in the USA. You'd probably pay the same for newer, upgraded components that are better than old OEM stuff from 25-30 years ago. None of these big ticket items are re-usable for the N/A car. Why not buy new and upgrade while you're there? The only real consideration is turbo and fuel sizing and determining whether you want to stay within the bounds of the OEM engine or get into rebuild territory. These limits ARE lower with a N/A motor and especially N/A gearbox at the starting point. And if you're gonna upgrade those then you may as well consider having them built to begin with. Because everyone here knows you're never far from that next engine rebuild once you start making the power you want... The cars you see on the internet and SAU etc have been built over decades. If you're really clued in... you would sell your US car to somebody for what you paid for it. You would then scour AU JDM pages or SAU and buy a car like Dose's on this forum with your powerful American Dollar. This will save you so much money in the long term. Importing it could be tricky. Or it might not because USA. I have long said the only reason 90's Japanese stuff took off was because a) Japanese people had Japanese cars so that is what they used b) Australians could import these cars to Australia with very minimal changes and use them on the road here c) Neither country had well-priced access to US or EU Sports Cars. I don't believe the JDM scene would have taken off in Australia at all if we had EU priced EU BMW M offerings, or more especially the AUS V8 Scene would never have existed if we had the multitude of US cars like Camaros, Mustangs, Corvettes at the prices you folks do. After all - Do the math. I would say put a V8 in your R34 and that's the smart way forward. It is. I did it. I know this from my own experience. But at that point there's no reason to simply not buy a C5 or C6? It would be simpler and easier and cheaper and bette-
×
×
  • Create New...