Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

guys has anyone got any idea what this ticking noise could be coming from my car? (other than a bomb)

it only happens sometimes... like tonight i filled up at the servo... took off... went to do a u turn and gave it a bit of stick round the corner... went to the lights and it started ticking! sounded like a metal ticking noise... quite loud.

then when i got home and went to check it out it stopped... well it stopped b4 i got home...

its happend a few times recently... seems to be after i give it a bit of a caining... but then again i took it around the rds just then and thrashed it and nothing... sounds normal.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/
Share on other sites

If its a turbo gasket you'll here it eminating from around the turbo (obviously), and it'll gradually get worse.

Thats what mine did.

When it starts ticking again, get someone to rev it and stick your head near the turbo and have a good listen.

Though my noise didn't come and go as yours does?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-551859
Share on other sites

cool... hasnt done it for ages... oil is fine theres no leaks anywhere from what i can see... but eric ur suggestion sounds like it could have some merit as it did end up going away once the car was warmed up properly... mind u it hasnt happend since i posted this :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-551964
Share on other sites

Originally posted by pushead

the noise comes on right behind the dash right? like a clinging ticking noise but after the car is warmed up properly its ok .

yeah i get that too

its like a creaking sound but once the engine is warm it goes away

what is that?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-557001
Share on other sites

I also get this ticking noise when I first start the car up from cold. Idles for about a minute then goes away...dosen't sound nice when it does it though...

It's not the lifters or injectors, very loud and distinct, and only happens when I start it in the morning.

I have read a few other forums and could it be the oil pump not working properly when it's cold?

I think we all would be GREATLY appreciative if someone knows what is happening...

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-560394
Share on other sites

I had a decent listen this morning (sat) and I think it sounds like the lifters or something in that part of the engine, because it stills make noise after its started, so possible not the starter motor or something....I have no idea really, take it to the experts when I can...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-565133
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

just to let anyone know still interested in this, I haven't been able to get to Ice Performance yet, but I found out (I think) why my engine was making a ticking noise; I was parking on a lean and the oil must of drained almost completely out of one side of the head and thus when I started it in the morning there was no oil there to lube up the cam and lifters, etc. until the pump got the oil up there. Have been parking on level ground since and not one ticking noise!!

hoorah!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/25977-ticking-noise/#findComment-587603
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I'm selling my personal race car. 1992 BNR32 Skyline GT-R About eight years ago the engine developed the dreaded low oil pressure problem. I removed it and found the issue. However shortly after I moved half way across the country, moved my work shop, bought a house, got married, then moved my shop again to it's permanent location for the time being. in turn I do not have the time to race this car as it should be. In turn the engine I built for this car will end up in my street car and this car I hope finds a home with someone who can use it to it's full potential. The roll bar was built by Jason Noren Fabricaiton in Pomona California to SCCA and NASA Specs. The car used to compete in redline time attack and global time attack enthusiast class. It also has a fire suppression system.  The car is with me at my workshop in Kyle Texas, USA. Shipping it is no problem, I can personally deliver the car to the port of either Houston or Los Angeles. Any other port depending on where it is may require transport but we can always work that out.   The chassis itself is rust free, rear quarters and under fenders are free of any rust so it's a very solid foundation for anyone who wishes to move forward with it. As posted and at the asking price of $20,000 USD the car includes all of the following;   All OEM Body panels, front fenders, rear bumpers etc.  OEM Nissan Projector headlamps (Pictured N1 lamps were removed) OEM Nismo Side Skirts / Extensions OEM Rear Spats  Front & Rear Subframes are installed car is full roller Rear Subframe has Cusco Camber Arms, Whiteline HICAS Elimination Front Subframe has Whiteline tension rods and whiteline Sway bars w/ endlinks.  Buddy Club N1 Coilovers All chassis wiring and engine wiring is in tact. Attessa System is fully in tact and was functional before engine removal.  BCNR33 GT-R Brembo Brakes F+R with Endless MX72 Plus Pads, DBA Rotors & Stainless Steel Brake lines Billion Racing Radiator Billion Radiator Hoses Fluidyne Engine Oil Cooler Accusump System (trunk Mounted) 5 Speed Transmission w/ Transfer Case F+R Prop-shafts Rear Differential With rear Axles.  Nismo Gauge Cluster Nismo Clutch + Flywheel   Essentially what is needed to make this car running and driving again is as follows: A working Engine, an ECU, and time to put it together. The price posted is or best offer as I am willing to remove some components to accommodate price to a certain extent. If any serious buyer wants full detailed pictures, videos, or any questions I'll be happy to answer them. I believe this car is priced to move quickly considering it's a rust free and very straight chassis but always open to fair negotiation.  I can be contacted via phone or email. (+19517081648) email is [email protected]   
    • So...to my (and my mechanics doing the swap) surprise...the oil pan from NEO engine does not fit 100% and needs to by modified like this: It is not a huge problem but in the future i want a "proper" oil pan. So question is...what different oil pan can i get to fit without any problems and modification? Thanks! 
    • Some more info I found.  These are the last entries Yoshikiyo Fujii made on his blog before he passed away in 2009: http://blog.livedoor.jp/fujii_dynamics/ And finally this is where the workshop was situated:  https://maps.app.goo.gl/HhTPtHzt3WVcBTiEA  
    • shit boxes, kids, and daily drivers are all welcome
    • Cam seals go hard. It's a very old car.
×
×
  • Create New...