Jump to content
SAU Community

My car has been broken into & stripped while at the mechanics!!


Recommended Posts

Originally posted by inark

dont mention the name in the forum.... if ppl need to know PM it to them k?

yep i know Nark. I'm not about to get involved in a defamation suit against me and drag SAU into it in the process :)

The dude is so far paying for everything so there is no need to do anything even remotely like that anyway.

hhrmm... i would have thought that he is not liable?

as in when you hand over your car usually there are 100 and 1 signs saying that the car is left there and it's not thier responsibility... and when you sign the job cars etc etc it has hte disclaimer on there?

or is that something else?

He was finishing off some work on it and at that stage I did sign a job card. However since then i've taken delivery off the car i returned it to get some existing work finished. I have an invoice saying that the job was completed however and that I had taken delivery.

i didn't sign anything when I left it there this time around when it was broken into.

Signs denying liability are almost useless. They're there to scare you away. For instance, you can say "enter at your own risk at the entrance to your porperty" but if someone trips over something on their way to your front door, you are still liable, end of story.

Mechanics generaly have insurace for theft while property is in their car or on their premises. He's probably going to pay out of his pocket rather than pay an excess or higher fees.

The mechanic has atleast proceded to do the right thing, even if it does sound dodgy.

my brother had hi modded wrx (turbo computer suspension front mount wheels 3k in hks guages etc etc etc + a boot full of parts including trust t67 turbo kit new trust front mount twin plate clutch injectors fuel pump etc etc etc stolen out of the mechanics workshop after the shop was locked up. How convenient his was the only car left with the keys in it waiting just behind the roller door. they didn't take the evo 5 or gtr's around it just his. this is a legal battle that on going after 2 years, as neither there insurance co is taking liability for the parts, they say coz they keys where left in the car. THE SHOP LEFT THE KEYS IN THE CAR.

NOW YOU EXPLAIN TO ME INARK WHY I SHOULD PROTECT THAT SHOPS NAME!

not yet Eddie. I know of one wrecker in Melbourne that says that he can get one in but from Sydney. If I don't get one in Melb i'll try getting one from Sydney.

If all else fails then i'm off to the GTR shop :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
    • ..this is the current state of that port. I appreciate the info help (and the link to the Earls thing @Duncan). Though going by that it seems like 1/4 then BSP'ing it and using a bush may work. I don't know where I'd be remote mounting the pressure sender... to... exactly. I assume the idea here is that any vibration is taken up by the semiflexible/flexible hose itself instead of it leveraging against the block directly. I want to believe a stronger, steel bush/adapter would work, but I don't know if that is engineeringly sound or just wishful thinking given the stupendous implications of a leak/failure in this spot. What are the real world risks of dissimilar metals here? It's a 6061 Aluminum block, and I'm talking brass or steel or SS adapters/things.
×
×
  • Create New...