Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 46
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

What exactly have you requested?

I had a Nistune ECU tuned by Yavuz and would recommend him to anyone.

When i spoke to him he gave me 3 options

Basic tune - More in depth tune - Full all singing dancing tune -

It depends really on how much time he spends on the car. If you want hime to keep going all day long until it's perfect then I don't think the price is unrealistic. Which would be different to a basic tune that ensure everything is ok.

Of course a PowerFC is different to a NisTune ECU so that may also effect the price

in the end of the day, you pay for what you get.. when tuners ask top dollar for what they do, they do it because they can, and ppl know this! they have a reputation in the end of the day and this is what determines what they can charge for a tune.

in the end of the day, you pay for what you get.. when tuners ask top dollar for what they do, they do it because they can, and ppl know this! they have a reputation in the end of the day and this is what determines what they can charge for a tune.

I asked him to have a full tune + install and dial in the cam gears. Told him that this will be a street tune, not for all out power. My goal is to get closest to the 300kw mark but have the power delivery come on at a low rev range, cause I want responsiveness over top end power.

I will still go ahead with the tune with him as his reputation is right up there and at the end of the day I would rather pay to have it done right the first time.

Also he has advised that he will need the car for 4 days, so I'm expecting him to take his time and get things right :P

Another fan (customer) of Yavuz. I have been taking my car there for nearly 5 years.

He may not be the cheapest but he sure does do fantastic work, proof is in the driving.

There are so many negative stories from supposed reputable tuners and workshops in the Sydney metro area... I can say I have never heard of any about Yavuz/Unigroup Engineering. It seems from the replies above there is a reason for that.

This thread has me thinking... a local tuner quoted me $100/h plus I had to buy the laptop connector for the Microtech (he's only previously tuned Haltech which he sells and LS1Edit). He did another guy's skyline for what turned out to be 11 hours work so $1100, for a "reasonable" tune,

after hearing this I decided that going to Adelaide / Melbourne to get it retuned would be the go, would say a ballpark figure of $100/h be reasonable or would it be more?

Obviously I'd have to bite the bullet and probably pay a lot, one other thing, is it true with MAP sensor based ecu's that the tune throws itself out with a change in climate? Mine was originally tuned at CRD in Sydney, and it seems excessively rich (cat blocked itself within 3 months of owning it + having to change plugs every 10000km max). Would this just be indicative of a "safe" tune or an inherent Microtech thing or perhaps something due to coming from a moderate, humid climate to a dry mediterranean one?

Oh here we go, all the microtech haters will pipe up soon

I had a safe "ish" tune on an lt12s, that meant it was a bit rich which was what i asked to. But blocked cat and changing plugs? No way. Get the tune fixed. Id start by calling a tuner and saying "i want a tune on my microtech but before you ask, no im not looking to buy a different computer i know this one is very basic compared to the current marketplace but as its basic it doesnt take long to tune and doesnt have a lot of things that can go wrong" ;)

BTW i was quite happy with my one, if i didnt need more features for the direction this car is going, i would still have it in there :cool:

This thread has me thinking... a local tuner quoted me $100/h plus I had to buy the laptop connector for the Microtech (he's only previously tuned Haltech which he sells and LS1Edit). He did another guy's skyline for what turned out to be 11 hours work so $1100, for a "reasonable" tune,

after hearing this I decided that going to Adelaide / Melbourne to get it retuned would be the go, would say a ballpark figure of $100/h be reasonable or would it be more?

Obviously I'd have to bite the bullet and probably pay a lot, one other thing, is it true with MAP sensor based ecu's that the tune throws itself out with a change in climate? Mine was originally tuned at CRD in Sydney, and it seems excessively rich (cat blocked itself within 3 months of owning it + having to change plugs every 10000km max). Would this just be indicative of a "safe" tune or an inherent Microtech thing or perhaps something due to coming from a moderate, humid climate to a dry mediterranean one?

its normal for a microtech to get rich after about 3 or 4 months of being tuned and fowling the plugs is normal as well.

as long as you get a re-tune every 6 months and change the plugs every 2 months you should be right with a microtech.

Why is that? Do they just lack an IAT sensor?

no they have IAT. they just go out of tune all the time. at least when they go out of tune they always go rich not lean so i guess thats why its not so concerning

N1GTR do you also have working ATTESSA with yours?

Yeah I've unblocked the cat and change plugs when it starts to miss on idle, it also appears to not be running an 02 sensor which I had thought might also have been contributing to it.. my mates tell me to piss it off and get a RB20 ECU + remap or a PowerFC (rather stay MAP based due to AFMs having loads of problems). I'd rather stick with it than stuff around trying to refit something else into it.. really starting to wish I'd bought a stock or near stock car now!

On the other hand, if it's "normal" for it to go rich every 4 months or so, that's not really going to work either, especially if I'm travelling upwards of 400km to go to a tuner! Apparently the ECU also needs to be sent back to Microtech for something to be adjusted for VCT to work as well.

300 to install cam gears?! You dont even have to take the belt off, just the CAS and top cover, slip them in while holding the belt...its not hard.

At the end of the day, if the driveability is as good as, or better than, a factory ECU, is responsive, economical, has no hiccups or flat spots and makes target power for the setup then its a good tune.

i'm not going to go into what i've spent on tunes. however out of the two they have both been completly from scratch (wolf v500-no base map) and have been unbelievably good. first one was going from a power fc, tuned by pitts, to the wolf v500.

now i know which one cost more to tune. but it's worth it.

dialling cam gear properly does take time. people that think the tuner will just adjust to where the last 5 motors have liked them need another tuner. but i guess that's the difference you pay for.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, so widen your search to any Nissan speedo first, then go wider if needed. I will say though, that there is a better than even chance that what I said first will likely come into play. They quite possibly won't come apart without damage. I tried to disassemble a stepper gauge that I wanted to repair. There was no way that needle was coming off the spindle, and I could not see how the spindle would come out of the mechanism behind. Assembled once, never to be disassembled, was my conclusion. Could be the same on the R34 cluster. Failing that - take the cluster to a workshop that specialises in automotive instrument work. There's usually at least one in every Australian city. They'll either be able to do it for you for small cost, or tell you it can't be done. It might be that "it can't be done" unless you follow some arcane procedure, including trickiness to glue it back together or something, that only experienced techs know.
    • Well, given that I, an engineer, almost never bring out the torque wrench to tighten up chassis bolts, despite fully knowing the theory, and instead rely on feel, which I happen to know is exactly how the majority of mechanics do things, should tell you the level of actual peril that exists from not achieving exactly 88 Nm of torque. How about if I just say then that 88Nm is at the lower end of the correct wheel nut torque range? Everyone knows how to tighten a wheel nut, right? And almost no-one ever brings out the torque wrench for that task
    • Don't be ridiculous. "2-3 ugga duggas or one Oof. You have to use Oof on tie rods because you can't get an ugga dugga on there." Is not helping the guy at all.
    • I have done a lot of research before posting here and on gtruk forum. couldn't find anything. I have my gauges all part except the needle itself. the needle has a extremely small hole in the center, but the shaft going to the needle is extremely small and appears to have nothing to index it either. doesn't seem strong enough to simple pry or pull without damaging something. Already tried the old spoon trick on a extra triple meter I have from a gtt, but no luck. the center cap comes off easily but the hole in the meter face plate aren't big enough to get over the needle itself. figured this would be my best place to find someone who might have actually removed theirs. wonder if there is some type of small pin press tool to push the pin in while pulling the needle base off.
    • Ok...its taking me long enough to finally do this.  Feck financial security...heart disease will get me soon enough anyway So welcome to the garage..."Clem" Belsil80 has been running a 370Z in Super TT series. So after entering with him in last years Winton 300 i figured I  need my own car. Seems SAU Vic race cars need to be yellow....{tick} Reckon with enough motor i will be able to make up for the lack of talent and stay ahead of the 370Z... but the LS powered S13 and E36s are a ways up the road Aim is to have a car that doesnt stop or turn but has a bit of shed built motor with jam...maybe some cream  First step is getting this ex drift car log booked I am keeping faithful silver car. As the road-club car gets upgrades the race car wil get the sloppy seconds
×
×
  • Create New...