Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

My understanding may be incorrect, but I would think the HIGHER your HP, the MORE difference lighter wheels will make.

To take your example, if a 40fwkw civic changes to rims half the weight, then the drivetrain loss associated with driving those wheels is halved as a percentage (obviously the flywheel, transmission aspect hasn't changed). They may then appear to "gain" a few fwkw.

In your car, halving the weight of the rims will again halve, as a percentage, the drivetrain loss associated with turning the wheels, but as you have 10X more power than the civic, the effect will be magnified in terms of power-to-the-ground "kw gained".

Not to mention that lighter wheels are:

- easier to acc/decel/stop

- easier to steer

- provide better contact with the ground (read the above thread)

- give you kudos!

But then again, you have spent 40k to make a 375rwkw car - more than many GTRs (and probably ended up being similar price). Why exactly do you need more? Do you spend a lot of time on the track? If it's the street, then you won't notice much difference, as you will very quickly overspeed without any effort no matter what wheels you hve.

  • Replies 48
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My understanding may be incorrect, but I would think the HIGHER your HP, the MORE difference lighter wheels will make.

To take your example, if a 40fwkw civic changes to rims half the weight, then the drivetrain loss associated with driving those wheels is halved as a percentage (obviously the flywheel, transmission aspect hasn't changed). They may then appear to "gain" a few fwkw.

In your car, halving the weight of the rims will again halve, as a percentage, the drivetrain loss associated with turning the wheels, but as you have 10X more power than the civic, the effect will be magnified in terms of power-to-the-ground "kw gained".

Not to mention that lighter wheels are:

- easier to acc/decel/stop

- easier to steer

- provide better contact with the ground (read the above thread)

- give you kudos!

But then again, you have spent 40k to make a 375rwkw car - more than many GTRs (and probably ended up being similar price). Why exactly do you need more? Do you spend a lot of time on the track? If it's the street, then you won't notice much difference, as you will very quickly overspeed without any effort no matter what wheels you hve.

What do you mean by "you will very quickly overspeed without any effort no matter what wheels you hve"?

Yes it's JUST for the street and maybe an occasionall straight line quater mile.

I just performed a simple test today, I went to the gym, placed a 15 KG weight on the bar, and a 10kg weight on the other side of the bar. I spun both with my hand, and I can honestly say their was not much difference, and bear in mind, this was with my hand, not with a 375 rwkw engine spinning the wheels....

I just asked nengun, they told me their nismo LT GT4s weigh 11 kg rear and 10 on the front.

Is it worth paying an extra $2,500 for a wheels that are 4-5 kg lighter AND without tyres? Have a think about it.

10-11kg sounds wrong to me....

As for the tyre comment, all wheels are useless without tyres anyway, so the end result will still be Xkg heavier if the same tyres are used on both sets of rims..

In all honesty, on acceleration you wont notice a huge difference as you have that much power driving them. Where you will notice the difference is in steering response, ride quality and braking performance (were all that power counts for nothing).

Also if you want traction i think the tyres are going to cost more then the rims :/

I just asked nengun, they told me their nismo LT GT4s weigh 11 kg rear and 10 on the front.

Is it worth paying an extra $2,500 for a wheels that are 4-5 kg lighter AND without tyres? Have a think about it.

$2500 more expensive? Pffffft. Shop around and you'll find some quality Jap wheels at a good price, there's some 2nd wheels in perfect condition if you look. I got a set of 17x9.5 +12 Volk TE37 with 4 Dunlop semi slick tyres for $3000 recently, all in awesome condition! I think they weigh around 7.5 kg a wheel

I would much rather pay a bit extra for some quality, STRONG wheels that actually come in decent offsets, unlike those Starcorp wheels that only come in ghey offsets and would probably buckle if hit a decent sized pot hole...

Your 16-17kg wheels without tyres weigh almost as much as 32gtr wheels with tyres! Try to remember with bigger wheels the increase in weight hits you harder, inertia is a function of the distance squared.. I can certainly tell the difference when I switch between my 16" 32gtr and 18" ssr professors and thats with over 400rwkw.

You should be able to pickup some decent jap wheels for around 2k - and if you sell your stock wheels that'l get you the extra 500 you need.

$2500 more expensive? Pffffft. Shop around and you'll find some quality Jap wheels at a good price, there's some 2nd wheels in perfect condition if you look. I got a set of 17x9.5 +12 Volk TE37 with 4 Dunlop semi slick tyres for $3000 recently, all in awesome condition! I think they weigh around 7.5 kg a wheel

I would much rather pay a bit extra for some quality, STRONG wheels that actually come in decent offsets, unlike those Starcorp wheels that only come in ghey offsets and would probably buckle if hit a decent sized pot hole...

"ghey" offsets? These wheels were designed to be used on the R33 GTS vehicles....

What do you mean by "you will very quickly overspeed without any effort no matter what wheels you hve"?

Yes it's JUST for the street and maybe an occasionall straight line quater mile.

I just performed a simple test today, I went to the gym, placed a 15 KG weight on the bar, and a 10kg weight on the other side of the bar. I spun both with my hand, and I can honestly say their was not much difference, and bear in mind, this was with my hand, not with a 375 rwkw engine spinning the wheels....

try this: put 15 on one side, 5 on the other, get both spinning real good, then try to STOP them spinning. come back and tell us which i harder to stop.

with your power, getting them going wont be a problem. but like someone said before, braking doesnt take killawasps

the starcorps are awesome. buy those. you won't notice it.

*this is what you want to hear. so far everyone has advised you not to buy them, but deep down you know you want to. just ignore the other posts and buy them.

the starcorps are awesome. buy those. you won't notice it.

*this is what you want to hear. so far everyone has advised you not to buy them, but deep down you know you want to. just ignore the other posts and buy them.

Everyone....? Go back and read the thread again. :P

Anyway, it's too late, I just purchased the Lenso D1R Hyper Silver wheels in 18x8.5 +35 and 18x9 +32 deep dish for my R33 GTS-T.

I had the shop measure them up on a scale, and they turned out to be between 11 - 12 KG.

Considering nengun informed me their Nismo LM-GT4 wheels weigh in at 9 and 10kg respectively, I thought this was pretty damn good!!!

Thread can be closed now, thanks for all your opinions fellas, you kept me away from the nasty heavy star corps, 16 kgs is alot......

Cheerio :wave:

if you are getting the D1R's get better offsets....

18X9+15

18x10+22

would fit with a lil bit of work

Are u kiddin? 18 x 10 +22? That'll stick out worse than my dog's balls when he hasn't shagged for like 2 weeks.

My car is lowered, I still want to keep the tyre under the guard while having reasonable camber.......

"ghey" offsets? These wheels were designed to be used on the R33 GTS vehicles....

Yes, i did indeed say ghey offsets. Anything over 30+ is a joke really if you want it to look good without using spacers.

Are u kiddin? 18 x 10 +22? That'll stick out worse than my dog's balls when he hasn't shagged for like 2 weeks.

My car is lowered, I still want to keep the tyre under the guard while having reasonable camber.......

...and this is the reason that majority of Aussie modified cars fail hard. You could easily fit these rims under the car with minimal guard work and -1 deg negative camber.

Yes, i did indeed say ghey offsets. Anything over 30+ is a joke really if you want it to look good without using spacers.

...and this is the reason that majority of Aussie modified cars fail hard. You could easily fit these rims under the car with minimal guard work and -1 deg negative camber.

You're a clueless gitt...... I belielive looking good is down to personal opinion, some people like having +40 offset, others like having +15..

As I said before, those starcorp impuls were DESIGNED to fit the r33 GST vehicles, so no, they are not "ghey" offsets, they are what it should be.

I'd like to see you fit 18x10 +22 on the rear of an r33 (thats lowered) with "minimal" guard work and -1 neg camber... Someone one here PLEASE prove me wrong...

Actually, yeah they would fit....... if your car isn't lowered beyond the point where the wheel goes under the guard...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You won't need to do that if your happy to learn to tune it yourself. You 100% do not need to do that. It is not part of the learning process. It's not like driving on track and 'finding the limit by stepping over the limit'. You should not ever accidently blow up an engine and you should have setup the ECU's engine protection to save you from yourself while you are learning anyway. Plenty of us have tuned their own cars, myself included. We still come here for advice/guidance/new ideas etc.  What have you been doing so far to learn how to tune?
    • Put the ECU's MAP line in your mouth. Blow as hard as you can. You should be able to see about 10 kPa, maybe 15 kPa positive pressure. Suck on it. You should be able to generate a decent vacuum to about the same level also. Note that this is only ~2 psi either way. If the MAP is reading -5 psi all the time, ignition on, engine running or not, driving around or not, then it is severely f**ked. Also, you SHOULD NOT BE DRIVING IT WITHOUT A LOAD REFERENCE. You will break the engine. Badly.
    • Could be correct. Meter might be that far out. Compare against a known 5 ohm 1% resistor.
    • @Murray_Calavera  If I were an expert I wouldn't be in here looking for assistance.  I am extremely computer literate, have above average understanding on how things should be working and how they should tie together.  If I need to go to a professional tuner so be it, but I'd much rather learn and do things myself even if it means looking for some guidance along the way and blowing up a few engines. @GTSBoy  I was hoping it would be as simple as a large vacuum leak somewhere but I'm unable to find anything, all lines seem to be well capped or going where they need to be, and when removed there is vacuum felt on the tube.  It would be odd for the Haltech built in MAP to be faulty, the GTT tune I imported had it enabled from the start, I incorrectly assumed it was reading a signal from the stock MAP, but that doesn't exist.  After running a vacuum hose to the ECU the signal doesn't change more than 0.2 in either direction.   I'll probably upload a video of my settings tomorrow, as it stands I'm able to daily drive, but getting stuttering when giving it gas from idle, so pulling away from lights is a slow process of revving it up and feathering the clutch until its moving, then it will accelerate fine.  It sounds like I need to get to the bottom of the manifold pressure issue, but the ignition timing section is most intimidating to me and will probably let a pro do that part.  Tomorrow I'll try a different vacuum line to T off of, with any luck I selected one that was already bypassed during the DBW swap.  (edit: I went out and did it right now, the line I had chosen did appear to have no vacuum on it, it used to go to the front of the intake, I've now completely blocked that one off at the bracket that holds several vacuum lines by the firewall.  I T'd into the vacuum line that goes from that bracket to the vacuum pump at the front of the car, but no change in the MAP readings).  Using the new vacuum line that has obvious vacuum on the hose, im still only getting readings between -6.0 and -5.2.  I'm wondering why the ECU was detecting -5.3 when nothing was connected to the MAP nipple and ECU MAP selected as the source. @feartherb26  I do have +T in the works but wanted to wait until Spring to start with that swap since this is my good winter AWD vehicle.  When removing the butterfly, did it leave a bunch of holes in the manifold that you needed to plug?  I thought about removing it but assumed it would be a mess.   I notice no difference when capping the vacuum line to it or letting it do its thing.  This whole thing has convinced me to just get a forward facing manifold when the time comes though.
    • Update: tested my spark plugs that are supposed to be 5ohms with a 10% deviation and one gave me a 0 ohms reading and the rest were 3.9ohm<, so one bad and the others on their way out.
×
×
  • Create New...