Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I rang them - It's like hype said :

Stage 1 - $2200

Stage 2 - $2400

Stage 1 for street use - more drivable

Stage 2 for strip use - less drivable (assuming this means more boost comes on later)

Both represent significant gains over standard - Not sure what 'significant' means.

Both sides of the turbo are highflowed using exisiting housings. Ceramic turbine chucked our and replaces with a better one - All bearings replaced.

Not sure, but I saw in another thread that a Hi Flow job coast $1300 - maybe that was just the compressor side ??

I spose when you are talking about a turbo - it's worth paying a bit more to get a professional job. Plus - it's still cheaper than a new/bigger turbo - Plus the look remains stock.

I think the other turbo for 1300 was a thrust bearing and GCG do ball bearing. It would be interesting to see peoples thoughts on which bearing to go for. If it is worth the cost. This could be for two reasons i.e. wear on the bearing, if this is a concern do thrust bearings wear out quicker and how long would they be expected to last ie 15psi. And in theory ball bearing should spool quicker all things equal however has anyone had any lag due to going thrust bearing conversion.

It all comes down to money and in this instance up to a $1000 more for the GCG ball bearing version.

For what its worth...

on most engines thrust bearings are fine if you dont mind the possibly slower boost response.

However i hear that RBs arent renowned for their high oil pressures, and when combined with a thrust bearing turbo running @/over 1 bar have been known to wear thrust bearings, internals pretty quickly.

The higher boost levels and lower than ideal oil pressure force the oil film to disperse allowing metal to metal fouling of the thrust bearing.

Anyway thats the advise ive been given and it seems sound enough from a logic point of view.

Anyone read the article? What did you think? I rang Kyp from ATP and he wouldnt tell me any specs however guaranteed 220rwkw with my setup. They had a car produce 238rwkw. Well priced under 2k including match porting exhaust. Still only bush style bearing.

Anyone had or heard of any experiences with these guys.

Greg.

I picked up a second Hand HKS t04e for $400, and just need an external wastegate, even if it needs a reco that anly costs about 700. The manifold modification is not too hard if you have the right tools, I am macking a steel block that will get welded to the std manifold, and the gate and turbo will bolt to this. You could probably gat something similar made for about $400.

I rang the dude at Port Kembla. He reckons he can do a reco & small hi flow for $800 (keeping the ceramic turbine) But for $1200 he can do a much better job and replace the ceramic turbine.

Might be worth investigating a little more.....

Originally posted by meggala

 

that was my thought the only thing with the hiflow is it bolts straight up. with no mods needed

cheers

meggala

Geez, Garret GTs even HKS turbo's (when got from Nengun) are about that price "NEW". I guess its cheap if a big part of the cost is labour to remove and fit the turbo. Otherwise I'd go buy a new one.

The GT25's are 'bolt on', will make more power and be more reliable.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...