Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Thats why its called 1KG actuator. Once boost controller removed it should stay around 10psi. You can also play with the actuator's pre-load to alter boost settings.

Thats why its called 1KG actuator. Once boost controller removed it should stay around 10psi. You can also play with the actuator's pre-load to alter boost settings.

Boost controller has been turned off. Which way do i adjust to lower boost? Not keen on 1Bar until injectors are sorted

Stao, what if any are the differences between your GT3076 with your .82 rear and the Garrett original version? I realise you use a different exhaust housing and that it's a direct fit, but does the turbo have any less potential due to the compressor housing?

Stao, what if any are the differences between your GT3076 with your .82 rear and the Garrett original version? I realise you use a different exhaust housing and that it's a direct fit, but does the turbo have any less potential due to the compressor housing?

+1 good question

Just direct vacuum straight into the actuator with no boost controller. You should see a drop in boost curve.

GT3076 is a Original Garrett Item. We use them in our turbo builts, high flows and overhauls depends on customers request. Most of our turbochargers are built in sleeve bearing setup which is some thing that is equivalent to produces similar end result.

Garrett does not have IW housings that made to suit RB25det OEM engine setup. Ours is a custom made housing which is in the same Air ratio but with OEM RB25det Bolton pattern.

stao would you be able to hiflow a 2IU to HKS GTRS or 2835 spec?

I would be interested to know if its possible also to do a hiflow with 3076 internals and a matching front housing size that would perform similarly as well... is it possible to modify the RB rear housing in a way that is as effective as the original garrett IW housing in this scenario? in a way that does not require cropping of the exhaust wheel and that does not have the exhaust wheel pertruding out the rear port of the turbo (therefore blocked by the housing)

it would be great if you could clear these up for me Stao, thanks

We can build a 2871 equivalent CHRA in a customized T3x .64 turbine housing with 6 bolt dump. Should make similar sort of power and response.

Garrett does not have IW housings that made to suit RB25det OEM engine setup. Ours is a custom made housing which is in the same Air ratio but with OEM RB25det Bolton pattern.

They actually do now: NEW!! RB Nissan Special Garrett GT3076R ball bearing turbo

Bottom of page 2:

http://horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category12_2.htm

Although, GCG do not like it and say that the standard skyline flange is too restrictive for the GT3076R and causes boost spiking etc.

This is from a Friend's 95 R33 running a ATR45 600HP turbo in .50 comp and .82 turbine internally gated using a high pressure actuator.

fully stock RB25det engine, 550cc injectors, cooler, Nistune chiped Z32 ECU , and 3inch turbo back exhaust. Tuned at 399rwHP @ 18psi.

It hits 18psi at 4800RPM. Not the most responsive turbo, But it certainly can do lot more then 300rwkws.

298rwkwrb25dets.jpg

This is from a Friend's 95 R33 running a ATR45 600HP turbo in .50 comp and .82 turbine internally gated using a high pressure actuator.

fully stock RB25det engine, 550cc injectors, cooler, Nistune chiped Z32 ECU , and 3inch turbo back exhaust. Tuned at 399rwHP @ 18psi.

It hits 18psi at 4800RPM. Not the most responsive turbo, But it certainly can do lot more then 300rwkws.

Hi,

Sorry, I know you've probably been asked this question too many times to count, but I read a few pages ago a quote from you saying something like "We can build you a turbo to hit 280rwkw with excelent street response" from an RB25. I'm very interested in this, could you detail exactly what this would entail man? I've been reading through the thread but everything seems to change so often I thought I'd just ask you to see what was current.

This sounds awesome man, I just want to work out if I need to, and where to get dump pipes, and if my tuner's happy tuning this (I see no reason why he wouldn't be =]).

Cheers,

Tim

Edit: Obviously all the supporting mod's will already be factors, I'm just interested as to the specs of the turbo. Oh, and a price, if it's ok to post it here?

Edited by That_timothy

What does the 0.82 housing look like? Is it similar to the standard nissan one? Or is it obvious its aftermarket?

Will the standard heat shield still fit on?

Edited by Harey

The ATR43G3 is a 3076 56T equivalent turbo. in .82 turbine full boost at 4300RPM. Good for about 280rwkw with highpressure actautor internally gated. We can install a GT3076BB 56T CHRA for $450 additional.

The .82 turbine housing is a custom made housing in T3x print, with a 6 bolt OEM RB25's dump pattern.

The ATR43G3 is a 3076 56T equivalent turbo. in .82 turbine full boost at 4300RPM. Good for about 280rwkw with highpressure actautor internally gated. We can install a GT3076BB 56T CHRA for $450 additional.

The .82 turbine housing is a custom made housing in T3x print, with a 6 bolt OEM RB25's dump pattern.

Is it possible to get the ATR43G3 with a .63 rear?

As I was looking at getting either a 3071 or 3076 with a .63 rear.

Yes that'd be 1250 + 150 for the ATR43G3 with .82 housing and the high pressure actuator. + 10% GST and $80 oil feeding line. which is $1600 AUD.

Same profile In .63 turbine can get full boost around 3500RPM. But you need a external gate to hold it steady.

Boost curve in .63 turbine:

http://www.digi-hardware.com/images/dynosh...3boost15psi.jpg

Same profile In .63 turbine can get full boost around 3500RPM. But you need a external gate to hold it steady.

I'm only running an RB20 so would boost control still be an issue, as .82 rear on an rb20 would be a no go.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yes the gear for the R33/34 is different, it is red and has a different number of teeth. My part didn't come with that gear though, so I don't know how many teeth are on the red one. You'd have to reuse the 260RS/R33 gear, as long as it's not destroyed.   Haha, as unfortunate as that might be it was working fine for about the first 1500km I've had the car for now.
    • Update all   thanks to the workshop manual, it lead me back to checking fuses as mentioned central locking and door open lights worked when acc was switched on. diagram attached shows two points of power 1. ACC and 2.  Batt with the later being fused (#28) I did check the fuses using a multimeter but I must have stuffed that up also. Went back and checked the batt fuse in interior fuse box and you wouldn’t believe it… a blown fuse. replaced fuse and everything is now working as it should including the climate control   thank you all with your positive insight and knowledge.    
    • Where is the warning "That this thread is super old"   I just went into a 5 year old thread, went to do a reply, and couldn't see anywhere obvious a warning of it being super old
    • Duncan is correct. Pitwork (and Toyota's own cheap brand "Drive Joy") were primarily created as brands to sell other manufacturers car parts. It would be weird if Nissan sold parts for Toyota vehicles with a Nissan logo on it, so they created Pitwork to sell parts for other brans Toyota, Honda etc. They are not the same as Nissan genuine parts, although they *do* meet Nissan's standards for replacement parts. They aren't supposed to be a substitute for genuine parts, but a cheaper alternative that is better than Ebay fake parts from you-know-where.
    • Thanks GTSBoy, much easier to work with it now it's free!  
×
×
  • Create New...