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I just brought a hypergear turbo and i have heard from people they say if you use a 3inch metal intake on the cold side of the turbo it gets the most of the power out of the turbo?

Anyone know anything about this? If so some info would be great and what i need to do it? I think there is a link on the hypergear page if anyone has it could they post it up?

Cheers

Well depends on the turbo. Intake pipe should ideally be the same size as the inlet to the turbo. So if you've got one with a 3" compressor inlet then 3" intake pipe will do, if you've got one with a 4" inlet then ideally a 4" intake pipe would get the best results. Not sure what you're asking for with "what you need"? You need some pipe and some welding skills if you want the PCV and BOV returns?

All been covered in this thread before though.

You can get Scotty or Abe2 to make an induction pipe. check page 264

Or if you have a Adaptronic or a map sensored ecu I would just run a 3inch metal pipe with a 45 degrees silicon hose and a pod.

Check page 89

You probably find all your answers on page one, I've labeled all the important discussion bits in reference and linked to according pages.

Interesting that they didn't use any correction method, I've never had a run on Allstar's dyno without SAE being used.

They only put correction on to make people feel better their car made shit power...

To my understanding that the correction method makes the HP reading true in situations that would alter the output of the actual performance levels. It is calculated based on humility, air density, temperature, and altitude. Without correction the result could significantly differ depending on surrounding environment, but not necessarily only to a more positive or negative extend.

As If I knew the dyno has no corrections then I would want to have my car tuned at night when humility is low. air temp is cold with higher air density. :whistling:

Updates:

I'm getting some steam pipe bolton manifold and high mount manifold made overseas as I'm typing. I should have a prototype received by mid next week for trailing and testing. Those manifolds will be available for $300 to our customers assume they perform as expected.

It appears a larger turbine setups would perform better on factory manifolds, I will trail a SS2 in a .82a rear housing on current std manifold for some comparison.

Checked actuator pre-load which is about 4mm but rod isn't straight so might play with that next days off. The bracket for the actuator is on a very different angle to what is required so need to modify or bend it somehow.

It has to be in a particular angle as else the comp cover will hit the manifold. I've added few spacers under the actuator between the bracket. as long as the rod is perpendicular to actuator it self it will actuate fine.

But the rod isn't perpendicular. When disconnected it sits between the 2 pins. Might try modify it so it doesn't need the washers to space it off the bracket

Rofl. Told you guys, was tied down financially.

spent the majority of my weekend motor swapping 2 s14s, on my own, to fund this. Just so I could say, told you so :P

and I told you guys I make decisions fast once I can afford to :P

Me too! I watched the entire development of the SS1 and SS1PU in this thread, I know the genuine effort that has been put into it and I know what I'm getting.

On my way to the bank now. EDIT: ANZ the lazy pricks don't open till 9:30 so. I'll be paying for my turbo at lunch :P

This will be mega.

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