Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After another upgrade on the GTR my old wheels no longer fit.

I now has floating 380mm front and 355mm rears with fairly slim calipers but I now only have one set of 18's that clear the caliper. Volk evolution III's

So question is who has a set of wheels over brakes of a similar size and what brand/make are they??

I dont want to be taking the car around the country side trying second hand wheels on it for the next 3 months. I want to buy a second set and know they will fit.

So far I know Work XD9's dont fit, buddy club P1's are close to fitting, R34 GTR wheels have no hope nore do the Uras NS1 things.

After speaking with Eugene aparently TE37's will fit but there is nothing around atm that id be willing to bash around a race track with.

I dont want imaculate ones as im only going to wreck them but if nothing comes up I may have to do just that.

Thats what Eug said as well.

The Uras ones come close but they are just slightly too small to accomodate the caliper im using. P1's would fit if I took 3-4mm off the end radius of the caliper but im trying to avoid that if possible.

Interesting thread as I am trying to find the largest possible diamter disc/caliper wheel combo for 17s. Would there be much difference between the profile/height of a Motorsport Alcon/Brembo caliper to say your OEM brembo off a GTR?

I'm not sure about now but V8SC used/do? to run a 375mm front disc with 17s (obviously purpose built centre lock wheels).

Yeah I have 375mm rotors wit alcon calipers and have the same issue.

TE37's and LMGT4's are the only things I've found that fit.

Volk Challenge, CE28's, a couple of sets of different Enkies and Stock R34 GTR rims definitely don't fit!

Intersting to see.

We ran 375mm V8 Supercar floating rotors on the 34 last year under 34 GTR wheels, no issues. Custom caliper though.... but I didn't really see where the dimensions of the caliper really differed from, say, an Alcon.

Barkes.jpg

  • 4 months later...

Any more progress with this 380mm disc and caliper clearance issue?? Got a few quiries of my own regarding this issue!

Can anyone give details about or where to find inner rim diameters for these wheels (particually the LM-GT4 and TE-37)

Has anyone here fitted 380mm brake rotor discs with 18's? Which calipers were used? Wheels? etc.

Would 380mm brake rotor discs and 6 pot alcon fit a 19" Nismo LMGT4?

Any feedback would be great, cheers.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...