Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys...

i have now bought all the goodies i need to make some serious power but i'm still running the standard clutch...

now I know I definetely need to upgrade it at some stage... but its actually fairly new so I was wondering if it could cope with roughly 275rwkw...

What would it be like to drive everyday? and what would happen when I take the car to the drags with the shitty clutch?

Basically what i'm asking is if I can keep using the standard clutch (with 275rwkw) until it starts to wear out or do i need to change it even before I think about putting the new turbo, pfc, injectors etc in...

A decent clutch would only set me back around $500 + install so its not a big deal of cash but i just dont want to throw away my current clutch if it could be used to handle that kind of power...

Just to let you know the car is a series 1 R33 GTS-T

Cheers

Edited by usmair

had a jim berry clutch in my r33 that made 285kw, cost $1300 plus installation

ur better off gettin a good clutch to start off with, coz i had an exedy heavy duty sports clutch (bout $700 i think it was) in it before i got the jim berry one and it lasted 3 launches at the drags before it shat itself

Edited by UWISSH!

double the standard output and the standard clutch goes kaput;you can pretty much measure the life span of the standard clutch in minutes when you take it drag racing. get the best clutch you can afford so you dont have to change it when you increase your power later in the future.

My GTR runs a single pplate ceramic clutch, just been modded and tuned and now makes 308awkw, 1st dump and the clutch shit it self and slipped, so you can imagine what it would have done to a standard clutch. now im up for at least a twin plate. With that sort of power I would talk to someone in the know though before you make the selection. You can drive around with that power and a standard clutch, just done give it to hard a time, cause it wont last. (As I found out).

Goodluck

u will be absolutely fine mate. i drove mine and it was fine. just be mindful with it. in the end i only blew mine up when i did a burnout :cheers:. but other than that, dont be stupid and it should last for a little while

the standard clutch cant keep up with the std turbo and std mods, that is exhaust, intercooler, tune, more boost etc

so even at 180/190rwkw it will slip and eventually fail

the issue with the clutch (any) is they (when they fail) cant handle the torque from the engine

this usually happens when the engine is ramping up on boost, the most torque is typically made then

when it "fails" the engine free revs as its ramping on boost, so it goes 1500rpm, 2000rpm, then slips to 4000rpm

each time its slips its doing damage the flywheel and other components, so making it slip all the time is a bad thing

if you continue to drive with a slipping clitch youll need to machine the flywheel and possibly fix other busted shit

typically a good clutch will be at least $1000 for a mild GTST setup

i got a heavy duty clutch for $1200 for my 190rwkw GTST and its tough as nails

ive known a few guys go for sub $500 clutches with 200rwkw+ and they fry them

you get what you pay for and the clutch, being the single component connecting the engine & drivetrain

its essential that its prefect and strong to handle the load from it

its well known that sub $500 "300rkwkw" rated clutches are junk

remember, the killowatts mean nothing to a clutch, its the torque from the engine that frys it

if it was me and i was going for over 250rwkw

i would go for the nismo single plate clutch kit (it comes with a lightening flywheel)

failing that, i would go for a nismo twin plate

with the nismo cluthes they follow a premium price but you can be sure

it will fit correctly, mate up and be rated correctly driveability will be the same as std (ie easy and spot on)

if you go for a custom clutch etc you may find driveability sucks

ie: it stalls its ass off each time unless you ride it like a whore

or its mega springy (mega excessive centre sprung) so it bites really sharp

remember, the killowatts mean nothing to a clutch, its the torque from the engine that frys it

if it was me and i was going for over 250rwkw

i would go for the nismo single plate clutch kit (it comes with a lightening flywheel)

failing that, i would go for a nismo twin plate

with the nismo cluthes they follow a premium price but you can be sure

it will fit correctly, mate up and be rated correctly driveability will be the same as std (ie easy and spot on)

if you go for a custom clutch etc you may find driveability sucks

ie: it stalls its ass off each time unless you ride it like a whore

or its mega springy (mega excessive centre sprung) so it bites really sharp

i have a HKS gd max twin plate and its the nicest clutch i have ever used... smooth take offs everytime and loves 7k dumps has never slipped at all that was with 265rwkw. was expensive but well worth every penny imo....

Going through this exact same dilemma right now.

My GTR puts out 276kw on 16psi and any time i had the boost set at 16psi it would literally just free rev.

I mainly drive it around on 12psi, but its even slipping on that now.

So decided to get a new clutch. I've spoken to a lot of people and was originally going to go with "$500, 300kw" clutch, but soon realised that it literally won't last.

I'm just chasing up some final details but looks like I'll be going for a NISMO twin plate. Used, but will have it rebuilt before it goes in. Much cheaper than new. This way, it might cost a bit more now, but at least I'll be doing it properly and more importantly once.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brooooo Please send ABS control unit schematic Please! R33 gts25t ABS (Its two plug ecu, black and white) wire colors possible? [email protected]
    • Don't even try to run it on the stock ECU if you're going to have the boost controller bring boost above ~10 psi. I've already told you that. If you use the Nistune ECU, you will need to CAREFULLY read the available documentation for Neo tuning, and read some threads on the Nistune forums, to discover the various things you have to do to prevent the ECU from going bananas when the boost is too high. The is a table associated with th boost sensor that must be modified to prevent it from shitting the bed. This is just one of the things that you will need to do to the tune in Nistune, because the Neo turbo ECU will be expecting to see a number of things (such as the TCS) that are not there, and you have to block the DTCs on those. It is totally not surprising to me that you are having the problems that you are, but the solutions to these problems have been known for >15 years. So just get it done.
    • Hi. Sry iam not a mechanic and iam not at the car atm so i dont know 100% but they told they measure those and even try to change those. AFM they have two. Coils are new a they have my old one too. Plugs too. ECU...we have 25 NEO stock and Nistune 25 NEO.   But i dont know if any one those could be the problem and why/if/what can cause this, Only thing they did not check is fuel...but that walbro 255 is new(like 1,5 years)... That fuel pressure gauge idk...but i let them know Any suggestions?   EDIT: how can they know if it is like you say he ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high? Tha car has boost controler
    • Can you clarify what you mean by boost cut, do you mean it misfires both when under load (driving) and when stationary and out of gear? Or does the ECU pull power when it reaches a specific boost level that is too high (boost control issue)? Does it occur at idle with no throttle? When you say "the ECU is OK", what ECU is it and why do you think it is OK? Have you used the NEO ECU, and if so do you have a MAP sensor attached? Same for the AFM, why do you think it is OK? Do you have any way to put a fuel pressure gauge on it (even just a mechanical one between the fuel filter and fuel rail)?
×
×
  • Create New...