Removing Of Power Fc

[agsryd]

i have a r33 with stock turbo and injectors but other mods

i was was to remove the power fc (f**k U EPA) will i lose much power

i currently have 213rwkw

[R31Nismoid]

Well, not on a stock turbo you dont have 213rwkw... but thats another story...

You will loose a bit of power, but more so economy/driveability. It will just be fairly rich.

You should also back the boost off to under 10psi if you intend to use the right pedal as its likely you'll hit R&R mode on the stock ECU over 10psi.

[paulr33]

you will loose respose, power, economy and the car will feel sluggish

just baby it around with the stock ecu and youll be fine

dont trash the pants off and avoid loading it up on boost with stock ecu

[adis]

Well, not on a stock turbo you dont have 213rwkw... but thats another story...

By that did you mean its not possible or something else? Because i too made 208kw from stock turbo. Just wondering what you exactly meant sorry.

[reNEGaDe88]

Yeh, I ran 218rwkw on a stock turbo. Some dyno's read higher than others. But eitherway +/- 20wk and it will sound better. Can stock turbo's put out 200rwkw then R31Nismoid?

[mico]

seen 360whp from a stock turbo, link ecu.

[R31Nismoid]

By that did you mean its not possible or something else? Because i too made 208kw from stock turbo. Just wondering what you exactly meant sorry.

190-200rwkw is all a stocker will make - legitimately.

Some times you see results of 220rwkw etc, its just not possible on a factory huffer.

The owners take em to the 1/4 mile and should run 110mph with 220rwkw... but alas, they only ever run ~106mph indicating a much more accurate/true 200rwkw in a R33

Its funny, 200rwkw has been the max for years, yet the past 18-24months people have slowly been making more and more with the same turbo... gotta ask yourself how its even possible

[adis]

190-200rwkw is all a stocker will make - legitimately.

Some times you see results of 220rwkw etc, its just not possible on a factory huffer.

The owners take em to the 1/4 mile and should run 110mph with 220rwkw... but alas, they only ever run ~106mph indicating a much more accurate/true 200rwkw in a R33

Its funny, 200rwkw has been the max for years, yet the past 18-24months people have slowly been making more and more with the same turbo... gotta ask yourself how its even possible

Well maybe the dynos are not correct and need to be re-calibrated or something, because i done a run on my stockie and got 208 on 12psi. could have maybe got 210+ on 15psi? So im not lying, maybe the dyno is? I don't know. Either way, my dyno results are here:

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Rb...0&start=500

[R31Nismoid]

Honestly i dont care what the dyno says.

Its clear with a ambient of 19, and a IT of 31 - the sensor is near some heat, hence it 'gives' more power via correction, doesn't mean its legit

I could make a 300rwkw car ready 400rwkw on a dyno... not hard

[femno]

Not on new dynos you cant.

The new DD has its own electronic weatherstation where you cannot input different atmospheric conditions to tweak the correction and therefore power figures.

So do mainlines.

This argument is growing old Ash!

Oh, btw, mates 32 w RB25 S2 made 201 with airbox, std ECU and exhaust 10psi on a 2009 DD. I dont see why 213 couldnt be had.

[R31Nismoid]

Its not old - why suddenly in 2008/09 do cars make 210-220rwkw on factory turbos

its a load of shit. You dont get how the temp sensor works do you? it adds correction. always will

[femno]

So how would you get a 300kw car to read 400kw then?

(just curious)

[R31Nismoid]

IT temp sensor near a heat shield, easy done - been done many many times

[Parag0n]

So how would you get a 300kw car to read 400kw then?

(just curious)

Shootout mode generally adds another 40-50hp on certain dyno's.

Also depends on the quality and brand of dyno, wideband etc?

Personally I find Mainline dyno's to be most accurate.

[Cjmartz2k]

So how would you get a 300kw car to read 400kw then?

(just curious)

Atmospheric correction factor. Tell the dyno the air pressure is 28.83 and the air temp is 110 degrees.

Personally I find Mainline dyno's to be most accurate.

Define "most accurate". Do you mean lowest reading?

[Parag0n]

Define "most accurate". Do you mean lowest reading?

Consistent un-inflated readings over a period of several runs.

[adis]

Fair enough but i don't see how my car didn't pump out real 208KW. Was 19 degrees, so what, cold day. Normal dyno, normal mode(not shoot out etc), made 208. FULL STOP. You don't believe it bad luck, i believe you can get 210 with quality mods from a stockie. And like i already said, that was on 12 psi, i can run 15 i think, even tho i never tried.

[SDEWY5]

i would have thought an IT reading of 31 would be fairly accurate for the condidions considering the ambient was 19...makes sense to me..

[R31Nismoid]

Fair enough but i don't see how my car didn't pump out real 208KW. Was 19 degrees, so what, cold day. Normal dyno, normal mode(not shoot out etc), made 208. FULL STOP. You don't believe it bad luck, i believe you can get 210 with quality mods from a stockie. And like i already said, that was on 12 psi, i can run 15 i think, even tho i never tried.

Take it to the track then and run ~108mph - if you don't, you will then see how it didn't make it because you cannot argue that.

My bet is it'll run closer to ~105mph as opposed to 108 (which with 210rwkw you should run easily)

[l0WRB]

i have to agree with r31nismoid! but let them think they have 220rwkw, when they go thru the top end at only 103-105mph they will realise lol

but your car should run fine if u return it back to stock ecu.

whats with everyone saying u will loose drivabilty and fuel economy? lol my after market ecu is a pig 2 drive and drinks fuel like no tommorrow, what i would give for it to drive like it did on stock ecu.

Edited May 4, 2009 by l0WRB