Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Standard or A/M???

if it's standard, i'd be buying another secondhand one... or an A/M one..

But if u want to fix it, u probably could... but it looks like a bit of work and if it goes through to the face, it'll need to be machined when finished... so it would be cheaper to get another just from the machining cost...

also where it is you wouldn't be able to bolt it down properly and it could warp...

Hope it helps...

Theres no crack on the face of the flange or the inside of the turbine housing. Just the crack around the outside

Got it from Greeenline, don't like my chances of taking it back because its probably my fault.

I'm am not answering the question you told me not to answer.

a turbo should not crack like that just from doing it up, no matter how tight you do it.

if you were going to get it welded up it will probably have to be done by someone in the know, as i'm pretty sure the turbine housing will have to be ground out where the crack is, then heated slowly up over 200 degrees c, welded then cooled down slowly to prevent it from cracking again right next to where it is welded. special cast welding rods will have to be used also.

thats no good! what ex housing size is it? should be under warranty. id send greenline a picture..

0.68, Internal

I'll see what Greenline have to say about the warranty, otherwise I'm off to the turbo repairer.

Seeing as its not craked right through, it could be braise welded with success, I have braised vices that have cracked and they work fine. You would still have to preheat and most important post cooldown in a heat blanket.

^^^ yes, wouldnt hurt to get the manifold machined. If i were you send GCG a email or give them a call, explain your situation. they would have the gear/know how and have the correct gear to machine it

I've got to send the turbo to HKS and see what they say. They want to see if I dropped the turbo or over tighten the nuts. Don't know how they could prove/disprove either.

I'm not exaclty the worlds stongest man, hell I'm not even fat, skinny as stick, so I doubt I over tightened the nuts. I definatley did not drop the turbo.

Greenline have been good, but they're only the middle man.

WISH ME LUCK

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...