Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Coilovers For Street Drifting?

geraus
 Share

Recommended Posts

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted (edited)
then i might go for the ISC as im not FULL on doing racing on the track... I would now and then do a little bit of driftinggg .

What do you guys think of the Tien HA's? theres this guy selling them for 1k second hand.... he said there all in good condition.

Thanks guys.

Im not sure who bought up TEIN HA's as they were discontinued 6-7 yrs ago :P

If your on a strict budget and you dont mind a choppy street ride go ISC or HSD, if your after something half decent go Greddy Type S, TEIN SS or MONOFLEX or a better yet a bilstein package... the extra will be well worth it.

Pity you dont have a R32 Geraus as ive got a set of near new ISC's we just pulled out of a customers car, he upgraded to a set of TYPE S he bought of ebay and cant believe the difference.

Edited by URAS
  • Replies 109
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Top Posters In This Topic

Popular Days

Posted Images

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted
Im not sure who bought up TEIN HA's as they were discontinued 6-7 yrs ago :D

and they were not flash even then! steel body, not adjustable lower mount. and twin tube shock. they are great at blowing seals, especially on macpherson strut cars. and I even bought some brand new way back in the day! they were the basic entry level damper adjustable teins.

FineLine Grand Master

FineLine

Posted
Posted
and they were not flash even then! steel body, not adjustable lower mount. and twin tube shock. they are great at blowing seals, especially on macpherson strut cars. and I even bought some brand new way back in the day! they were the basic entry level damper adjustable teins.

Blowing seals ya say!....HMMMM....(strokes beard)

Basti Grand Master

Basti

Posted
Posted

just a bit off topics, did anyone ever find out what the spring rates were for the SK groupbuy that was on here a while back? i've got these installed in my r33 (whiteline/bilstein) and i wanted to know if i could be doing better

Habler Rising Star

Habler

Posted
Posted
just a bit off topics, did anyone ever find out what the spring rates were for the SK groupbuy that was on here a while back? i've got these installed in my r33 (whiteline/bilstein) and i wanted to know if i could be doing better

Depends on what you mean by doing better? Better lap times, better comfort on street etc

Off the top of my head the spring rates were something the lines of 4/3. Search his old threads and I'm sure it will say.

STATUS Grand Master

STATUS

Posted
Posted
and they were not flash even then! steel body, not adjustable lower mount. and twin tube shock. they are great at blowing seals, especially on macpherson strut cars. and I even bought some brand new way back in the day! they were the basic entry level damper adjustable teins.

Yeah i bought a set new too for my series 6.... cried in my pillow for days.

Jimmy Boy Apprentice

Jimmy Boy

Posted
Posted (edited)

Personally I run GReddy Type S and are very happy with them, although the 8kg and 6kg springs do at times when in traffic feel too hard and the car becomes less enjoyable to drive. Get them on a smooth open road and it is smiles all around.

However, my S15 is pretty modded, If you are just going to mod your skyline with mild bolt ons, get somewhere between 250 - 300kw. Drive it mostly on the street with a track day or two through out the year. I HIGHLY recommend TEIN Super Streets. WHY? They are made by an excellent brand - TEIN who only make suspension parts and been in the business for years, 5kg and 4kg springs make for a very comfortable drive around the streets, 16 way damper makes them quite stiff when you want to go for a thrash or have a bit of a drift. And I mean unless you are actually competiting the stiffness is plenty. PRICE - Great value at just under $2000, 2 Year Warrenty, Pillow Ball Tops. For a STREET coil over they really have everything. Their only downside really is they don't go low enough for some people, they go pretty low just not scrub your balls on the road low. I know more than enough people with very fast GTRs running them and not one word of them breaking or having bad performance.

so my recommendation for you are TEIN Super Streets

*Edit* Just noticed you bought HA, good luck with them.

Edited by Jimmy Boy
joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo Grand Master

joeyjoejoejuniorshabadoo

Posted
Posted
Personally I run GReddy Type S and are very happy with them, although the 8kg and 6kg springs do at times when in traffic feel too hard and the car becomes less enjoyable to drive. Get them on a smooth open road and it is smiles all around.

really, i run type s and in traffic they are fine... are your springs compressed at all or riding properly?

Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

HAs are pretty poor and also very old. like trent said they stopped making them years ago. so yours would be at least 4 or 5 years old and could be more like 10 years old. also, they are twin tube, not mono-tube.

look, if they are in good nick, and your stockers were stuffed then of course they will feel better. but be aware they do like to blow oil seals, especially the macpherson strut models (luckily skylines are not macpherson strut, they have wishbones). I hope you didn't pay much for them. if they were cheap then just enjoy. :D

_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted

Also, don't forget- Poorly setup overly stiff car will have a longer stopping distance than a stock car or a car with well setup softer springs/quality shock and some swaybars... another point for springs/bilsteins/swaybars/adjustable bushes.

Roads are shit, conditions change, say no to cheap "coilovers"

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
  • Author
Posted (edited)

uuhhh damm! i thnk i got ripped off.... but oh well.... i got a whiteline rear adjustable sway bar and the coilovers... . hmmmm thanks guys for the help, also they were in good condition... .

Edited by geraus
_Ryan_ Grand Master

_Ryan_

Posted
Posted
uuhhh damm! i thnk i got ripped off.... but oh well.... i got a whiteline rear adjustable sway bar and the coilovers... . hmmmm thanks guys for the help, also they were in good condition... .

start saving for the front adjustable swaybar and some adjustable bushes if you dont have adjustable strut tops!

geraus Mentor

geraus

Posted
  • Author
Posted

oright cool, so so far i got coilovers there stiff as, and my rear sway bar its pretty stiff to. What else would u guys use to complete my set up. What are the adjustable strut tops?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MissMintyR33
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By MissMintyR33 · Posted

      I thought that might be the case, thats what I'll start saving for. Thanks for the info 
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Ps i found the below forum and it seems to be the same scenario Im dealing with. Going to check my ECU coolant temp wire tomorrow    From NICOclub forum: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Thu Apr 11, 2013 7:23 am I am completely lost on this. Car ran perfectly fine when I parked it at the end of the year. I took the engine out and painted the engine bay, and put a fuel cell with an inline walbro 255 instead of the in tank unit I had last year. After reinstalling everything, the engine floods when the fuel pump primes. if i pull the fuel pump fuse it'll start, and as soon as I put the fuse back in it starts running ridiculously rich. I checked the tps voltage, and its fine. Cleaned the maf as it had some dust from sitting on a shelf all winter, fuel pressure is correct while running, but wont fire until there is less than 5psi in the lines. The fuel lines are run correctly. I have found a few threads with the same problem but no actual explanation of what fixed it, the threads just ended. Any help would be appreciated. Rb25det s1 walbro255 fuel pump nismo fpr holset hx35 turbo fmic 3" exhaust freddy intake manifold q45tb q45 maf   Re: s1 RB25det flooding at start up Fri Apr 12, 2013 5:07 am No, I didn't. I found the problem though. There was a break in one of the ecu coolant temp sensor wires. Once it was repaired it fired right up with no problems. I would have never thought a non working coolant temp sensor would have caused such an issue.
    • jtha7
      Strange issue RB25DET wont start

      By jtha7 · Posted

      Hi sorry late reply I didnt get a chance to take any pics (my mechanics on the other side of the city) but the plugs were fouled from being too rich. I noticed the MAF wasn't genuine, so I replaced it with a genuine green label unit. I also swapped in a different ignitor, but the issue remains. I've narrowed it down a bit now: - If I unplug and reconnect the fuel lines and install fresh spark plugs, the car starts right up and runs perfectly. Took it around the block with no issues - As soon as I shut it off and try to restart, it won't start again - Fuel pressure while cranking is steady around 40 psi, injectors have good spray, return line is clear, and the FPR vacuum is working. It just seems like it's getting flooded after the first start I unplugged coolant sensors to see if its related to ECU flooding but that didnt make a difference. Im thinking its related to this because this issue only started happening after fixing coolant leaks and replacing the bottom part of the stock manifolds coolant pipe. My mechanic took off the inlet to get to get to do these repairs. My mechanics actually just an old mate who's retired now so ill be taking it to a different mechanic who i know has exp with RBs to see if they find anything. If you have any ideas please send em lll give it a try. Ive tried other things like swapping the injectors, fuel rail, different fuel pressure regs, different ignitor, spark plugs, comp test and MAF but the same issue persists.
    • GTSBoy
      Freddy Plenum vs Genuine options RB25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      My return flow is custom and puts the return behind the reo, instead of at the bottom. All my core is in the air flow, rather than losing some of it up behind the reo. I realise that the core really acts more as a spiky heatsink than as a constant rate heat exchanger, and that therefore size is important.... but mine fits everything I needed and wanted without having to cut anything, and that's worth something too. And there won't be a hot patch of core up behind the reo after every hit, releasing heat back into the intake air.
    • Murray_Calavera
      R33 persistent issues. P/steering and lag/misfire

      By Murray_Calavera · Posted

      There is a really fun solution to this problem, buy a Haltech (or ECU of your choice) and put the MAF in the bin.  I'm assuming your going to want more power in future, so you'll need to get the ECU at some stage. I'd put the new MAF money towards the new ECU. 
×
×
  • Create New...