Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Well can confirm if you clean throttle plates and "bore" of throttle body with carby cleaner you will afterwards be able to see light past the edges of the throttle butterfly 100%

for the record this was the same with crc carby cleaner and motorquip carby cleaner

God I hope that tomei stuff I ordered this morning works

But you should be able to see light, the throttle plate should not contact the bore

Yeah had figured that 2 :rofl:

yet car ran and idled fine when chocked with carbon so you definitly couldnt

see any light???????????

The "bore " on mine is definitly looking silver now not black as in the posted pics

Just not wanting to risk problems on starting a fresh motor

:D:)

guess I may be panicking about nothing

checked the manual again to be sure and there is nothing in there about setting these

plenty on setting the other linkages with feeler gauges etc nothing on setting

the butterflys up though :D

Edited by noone

you can do a cleanup without any problems as long as you're sensible about it. most of the time the problems that people experrience are because the re-assembly may not have been done correctly, or there was a small thing that was overlooked.

http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...hers_gauge.html

link to the Tomei site showing application of Tomei throttle coat to the Butterflys

not to the bore of the throttle body at all

So went back down to the shed to check mine out

to find this on the exact same spot as in the pic on the Tomei site

post-33041-1260758097_thumb.jpg

Add to this the fact that I could barely blow any air down the supplementary air pipe

till I cleaned the throttle body bore where the butterfly contacts (well almost contacts) the bore

you can see said hole below and the pipe I am referring to is clearly visible in the Tomei pics

despite the pic it looks like this side didnt have the aprox. 6 -10 mm of coating the other side did

again exactly as per the tomei pics

post-33041-1260758733_thumb.jpg

If I hadnt of cleaned the throttle body bores I reckon this hole would of been so clogged as to have been almost useless

  • 10 years later...

Huge thread Necro, will be cleaning my throttles and this thread has been a help. Quick question, how do you remove the butterfly shaft? Do I need a press to remove it and the bearings? Unfortunately whoever owned before me put copious amounts of liquid gasket under the end plates to try and seal them.  I have scraped it all back but trying to remove the butterfly shaft has been useless, it feels locked in. Don't want to brake it but I think if I can get it lined up in a press it should just press straight out correct? Thanks

IMG_20200419_160447.jpg

Yeah mate, gotta press the shaft out, I did them on my 32 last year. I put a Reimax throttle refresh kit through it and new Nismo throttle springs, about a $300 exercise.

The Reimax kit is the only way to get those stupid plastic spring locator bits (they are always broken in most 26s I've seen) and shaft seals new. Nissan don't sell the bits as the throttles are not supposed to be disassembled - they are sold new as a complete unit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...