Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

About to order some bc's for my stag, sick of shitty slammed springs making me bottom out practically every day. I do like a fang but my 180s for that, do you guys recon 12 kg's all round I like what zei said hahah

12kg's are fine for the front.....12kg's are a too hard for the rear imo.....but then again I'm try to get a lot more power to the ground than stock.....I'm running 9.3kg's in the rear atm and it's very snappy in the wet........12's in the rear would be a little bumpy as well.

In between 8-10kg's would be fine in the rear....if you want to play around with it more get a good adjustable rear sway bar.

About to order some bc's for my stag, sick of shitty slammed springs making me bottom out practically every day. I do like a fang but my 180s for that, do you guys recon 12 kg's all round I like what zei said hahah

12kg's are fine for the front.....12kg's are a too hard for the rear imo.....but then again I'm try to get a lot more power to the ground than stock.....I'm running 9.3kg's in the rear atm and it's very snappy in the wet........12's in the rear would be a little bumpy as well.

In between 8-10kg's would be fine in the rear....if you want to play around with it more get a good adjustable rear sway bar.

What springs you got? I wana bottom out.... :(

I'm still trying to research what's the best suspension to use to go low. BC are cheap and go low, but how low? Then there's StanceWorks ZeroClearance coilovers for the 350Z which are built to go low not for performance, but they're a little more pricey.

the BCs can go low. VERY low. check out my display pic, that was the height they came out of the box, looked awesome, but impractical. there was plenty of thread left to go lower, and also higher, which is where i went lol

the BCs can go low. VERY low. check out my display pic, that was the height they came out of the box, looked awesome, but impractical. there was plenty of thread left to go lower, and also higher, which is where i went lol

So what's a practical yet low height (in mm/cm) for our cars?

in your avator pic - is that 10cm off the groung?

nope its more like 8cm off the ground lol

mine is a practical low height where its at now. but the back needs to come down a little, to pull the front bar up slightly as its a tiny bit too low

nope its more like 8cm off the ground lol

mine is a practical low height where its at now. but the back needs to come down a little, to pull the front bar up slightly as its a tiny bit too low

So how high is it off the ground now?

Where yours sits is where I want mine, possible lower... My chassis will have to grow balls of steel for the speed bumps into my workshop!

HAHahhaahha... I'd really like to see how low your car is going to be and how much damage you are going to do to the underside. :blink:

one braces the bottom rear of the rear subframe. another between the rails just in front of the rear sway bar, and another at the front binding the two black bar things that bolt to the bottom of the front suspension behind the rack.

they all sit higher than the lowest parts of my car - stupid factory mid muffler the size of my house

This one's on SilkRoad's. Top arms hit body, can just fit a match-box between the ground and one of the arms.

I intend to get a new exhaust made up to sit a bit higher, build a sump-guard and modify the rear setup so everything sits a bit higher, so I can drop it lower.

166838441_full.jpg

In between 8-10kg's would be fine in the rear....if you want to play around with it more get a good adjustable rear sway bar.

If only there was a sway bar group buy going at the moment... :whistling:

What handling? TBH, on the road the Stagea is always going to be a big wagon... for the moment when I want handling I have the RX7, my Stagea will be my impractical daily driver that shouldn't be a daily driver, until it gets ripped up. :D

lol fair enough!

being that low all your arms are at the wrong angle and having no travel left in the suspension means the ride would be harsh!

anyway, like i said, looks the goods. i still love the pearl white in the M35........ should have bought the RS aero in pearl white that i looked at

Yeh, i'm regretting not taking the time to check out other Stagea's before I got my one.

I had jsut sold my Forester and wanted a new car, and dad(importer) had just bought this one in, took it for a drive, and instantly fell in love. The modern tidy interior, the standard handling, the sound, etc..

If I had of known the turbo one's were so easily available, or the manual ones were out there, I would of tracked one of them down... Now i'm stuck with the poor-spec.. Oh well, it's kind of motivation to do something radical to it, knowing I cant make it any slower than it is now haha

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The car/ECU will have all the sensor that it needs and expect to have. I think i do not have to explain to you how the Link is way better specialy if you have swapped engine   I just do not want to deal with any "problems" cuz i have only Nistune which i learned is not that great and in my case cant even deal with that speed problem (Link can) And of course it will be way more easier to tune and diagnose and safe. And for the ECU/speed problem...i dont know.
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune: Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • Per Mark Roberts of Sonictune:     Mark Robert Author At this time, no. No ETA either 2016-17 models. You will be able to purchase and install a 2018.5+ TCU though   TCU purchasing and pricing info! As we near the release of TCU tuning, I am going to answer some questions I get asked often.   What do I need for TCU tuning? At this time, you will need a 2018.5+ TCU to be able to tune. If you have a 2016-to early 2018, you will need to replace your TCU with the newer version. One good way to know if your TCU is good is if you have auto upshift in manual mode in 1st gear around 6500 rpms. If your manual 1st gear goes to 7k rpm and will hit the rev limiter unless you shift, you have the older TCU.   Why do I need to buy another ecu license/phone flash if I already have it on my ECU tune? The TCU is its own computer module. It is completely separate from the ECU. Because of this, you will be required to purchase a TCU license and, if your tuner has it, the phone flash license required to tune it via phone/bluetooth.   Do I need TCU tuning? TCU tuning is NOT required. However, the faster your setup, the more it will assist in track and dragy time consistency.   If I’m ECU tuned by (tuner A) can I get my TCU tuned by (Tuner ? Yes, since it’s a different module and a completely separate flash, you can have two different tuners. However, it is highly recommend that you have both tuned by the same tuner. For me, my TCU tuning will directly complement my ECU tuning style and features and running my ECU and another TCU or vice versa MIGHT cause some issues. At this time and for the foreseeable future, I will only be tuning my current ECU tuned customers TCUs.     I have a SYVECS AWD controller. Do I still need it? Yes! The AWD controllers main job is to control your AWD system. However, with TCU tuning, you will no longer need the auto-shift function as that will be done through the TCU. The AWD controller will still be very beneficial for racers looking to maximize traction on the launch.     Shift schedule changes: holding gears longer at lower pedal input as well as max shift rpm changes. Please note, the new ECU race rom coming out will address 90% of the shitty drivability issues these cars have through custom maps from myself and Racebox—as well as others I am sure.   Increase shift speeds: as seen in the videos I’ve been posting, the TCU shifts much faster once tuned.   Increased shift pressures: as also seen in the videos, much firmer full throttle shifts.      
    • The fancy pants red shock tower brace is finally incoming from MX5 Mania, getting it shipped from 'Merica has been a long and problematic process, and GWR, the 'Merican supplier will not ship directly to consumers outside of the US, Mania basically had to order a heap of them, the colour choice was silver, or red, and we all know anything red adds 5 killerwasps of dynotorques..... Whilst it does fit over a 2.5, and I've seen a few photos and videos of it being installed and fitting, google also says it might get real close to the FAB9 intake front runner, people in the US says it does fit with the FAB9 intake, except for one person who said it slightly touched.......so there is that.....LOL..... As it seems that I am the first in AU to have this combination of parts there's no local knowledge about fitment, so I'm just a willing guinea pig in this endeavour, I'll cross my fingers and toes and hope for the best In other news, I ordered stuff from China  on the same day I ordered the 23° silicone bend from Victoria, the stuff from China arrived a day ago, the 23° silicone bend is still travelling around Australia thanks to Australia Post, and "may" be here next week
    • Very good news...I contacted Racebox about it last night. My car is a 2016 so remains to be seen if it is compatible, requires a TCU swap, or is impossible.
×
×
  • Create New...