Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

Have made a similar post in the past however misread the dyno print out.

They were doing free power runs in town so i thought i would go down and see what my car is making.

It made 239.5hp atw. however from about 5000rpm onwards the afr's are reaching 13.5. is this normal?

The mods i have are as follows:

- FMIC

- Running 10psi boost

- 3.5 Turbo back exhaust

- Pod with CAI

- Iridium plugs

- HKS FCD (found it by accident one day ahah)

From what i understand is the AFR's should sit around 12 or below?

Is there anything i can do to fix this?

Obviously by getting a decent ECU but i want to avoid that for now, there must be something causing this? dead fuel pump? bad coil packs?

Help boys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/268345-my-car-is-running-lean/
Share on other sites

sorry. its an rb25, turbo is stock. when i say decent ecu i refer to pfc, haltech etc.

currently running stock ecu. but should be pumpin out a bit more then 240hp i would presume?

had a nice big flat spot around 5000rpm too. also noticed a lot of unburnt fuel (black cloud) coming out of exhaust at that time.

that puff of smoke and miss at 5,000rpm could well be detonation.... considering it's running 13.5:1. it's not stupid lean, but yes it is too lean. any time you change the amount of air going into the engine you push it outside of what the ecu expects too see. sometimes it works ok, sometimes it doesn't. it could well be a dud fuel pump so it's worth checking that. it could also be a damaged afm. but most likely it's just the way to stock ecu is behaving with the increased boost over stock.

What increased boost?

You should be seeing around 11.5 at the top end with your mods and a healthy EFI system, so yes its quite lean. I would guage it as unsafe.

Could be your fuel pump as stated, could even have dirty injectors or busted fuel reg (reg unlikely). You need to monitor fuel pressure while doing a dyno run as a start.

i havent touched the fcd as i no nothing about them other than they are named "fuel cut defender's" ahahha.

it was there when i bought the car. I can see that whatever is causing the car to lean out is affecting the whole rpm range. I have a air/fuel meter and it also indicates the car running lean at 3000+ rpm's. i can see i have several options.

I can replace most of the consumables such as fuel pump, fuel filter etc, if that doesnt fix the problem i will look at getting some better/bigger injectors put in as i plan on doing a turbo upgrade and running more boost down the track.

I also have a feeling my coil packs are cracked and a not performing to their full capacity so i will do a quick fix on those to see if that helps. if it does then i will also replace those with some new ones.

well guilt toy instead of being a dik maybe you could offer advice?

URAS can i simply remove the fcd without any modifications needing to be done or will the wires going to the fcd need to be re-connected correctly?

My questions are:

a) Are there many people out there that know what theyre doing when it comes to tuning these little devices?

b) Would it be worthwhile removing the fcd or getting it tuned properly?

c) Could this unit be entirely responsible for the car to be running lean?

d) Does anyone recommned a setting for it to be set at?

a) yes, any competent tuner can.

b) yes

c) that's a big 10-4. yes.

d) yes, one that is not harming your engine and causing that detonation at 5,000rpm. there is no magic setting. it needs to be tuned to each application. get it on the dyno and get it adjusted. :D

well guilt toy instead of being a dik maybe you could offer advice?

URAS can i simply remove the fcd without any modifications needing to be done or will the wires going to the fcd need to be re-connected correctly?

My questions are:

a) Are there many people out there that know what theyre doing when it comes to tuning these little devices?

b) Would it be worthwhile removing the fcd or getting it tuned properly?

c) Could this unit be entirely responsible for the car to be running lean?

d) Does anyone recommned a setting for it to be set at?

Most of the people who ask for advice on this site do not listen, but here goes.

a: There are a few people who use them, most people choose not to. (smart ones)

b: Removing it is the best option

c: yes, as long as the fuel system is in order

d: no

Get rid of it. buy a power FC, i have one for sale with $1250 with hand controller. and then get it tuned and the issue will be fixed.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here's the chart for fuel pressure vs. current draw, assuming your base fuel pressure is 3 bar and you run like 0.5bar boost on WOT, you should only momentarily hit 9amps here and there. (Ignore my prev post, I cannot read a chart these days it seems)
    • Those comp test results are not hideous. Whether they are accurate or not (ie, when that comp tester says 140 psi, is the real pressure120, 140 or 160?) is unknown to us. The state of the battery used to crank it over is unknown, etc etc. Many people around here would say that the absolute values and the spread are perfectly fine to just add boost and keep going. I personally would be happier with a narrower spread than that, but even the diff between 125 and 145 is not terrible. That one cylinder at 125 though, has probably copped some damage relative to the others. You should inspect the valves seeing as you've got it open. Do you know how to measure installed ring gaps? That, and an inspection of the rings themselves, is how you will determine whether they need to be replaced. If you're not good to do these things, take the block and the pistons and rings to a shop that is, and ask them for the go/no-go on them. Do the bores need a hone at all? If so, you might well be justified in getting some different pistons in order to get away from the ring supply problem. Whether you're happy to spend a lot more money right now, on more gear, rather than less money, but an amount that looks stupid given that you will only get a handful of rings in exchange for that money, is for you to decide.
    • also possibly backed up to my filler and shat down it! 🤣
    • Ok so i would love some advice here please, i purchased an R33 a few months back and its had a few mods done to the engine, its an RB25det running a Master ECU, 1200cc injectors, bigger turbo, oil cooler, oil filter relocation kit, Spool H-beam rods, acl/ross pistons. When i removed the motor from the vehicle (as its getting a respray) i thought i would compression test it and these are the following results. Cylinder 1-145psi, Cylinder 2-143psi, Cylinder 3-125psi, Cylinder 4-145psi, Cylinder 5-140psi, Cylinder 6-135psi this test was done with the motor on the ground and powering up the starter motor. I dropped the sump and found broken oil squirters on cylinder 3,5 and 6. I was told my rings are probably worn so i stripped the motor completely to get a new set of rings for it. The trouble is no one has these rings anywhere and they have to be custom made by Ross over in the states and will cost about $600+$200 delivery. My question is how can i tell if my rings are at fault and if they are still ok and is this price ok for a set of rings?
    • What sold me on Trailer Park Boys is this scene: Great stuff, just stay clear from the new Netflix production.
×
×
  • Create New...