Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Basically what the above person mentioned.....

Check condition of gear knob, steering wheel, side bolster on the drivers side seat, wear on the pedals, check alignment of km digits.

Take it for a drive, listen for any knocks in the suspension or a rough idle. Check for oil leaks etc.

Could someone please explain why it is so common for imported cars to have excessively worn (basically no leather left on them) steering wheels? Do Japanese drive with sandpaper gloves or something? Or is it from something else? Most cars you see here could have done over 200,000kms and the wheel isn't worn.

Originally posted by dan_the_man

apparently Japanese men who smoke, sit in traffic jams and pick at the steering wheel with their nails... frustration of some sort.

Thats why its only on the top half of the wheel

Well look at it like this...

If we exported our old VN Commodores and EA Falcons to Japan, what would they say about us?

The same thing we say about them!

ie. young hoon type who smoke more than just cigarettes, big type sound systems and wear on knobs, wheels and pedals from general bad driving. If you wear rings you wear out the steering wheel.

T.

Originally posted by jabtronic

Could someone please explain why it is so common for imported cars to have excessively worn (basically no leather left on them) steering wheels? Do Japanese drive with sandpaper gloves or something? Or is it from something else? Most cars you see here could have done over 200,000kms and the wheel isn't worn.

I've heard that it's because a lot of Japanese are fond of the bling bling and wear lots of gold rings which may cause excessive wear on the wheel.

There are exceptions to the rule though, mine was in excellent condition when I got it, and is virtually the same now (I don't wear any rings or pick at the wheel with my fingernails).

You might be able to see some small wear on the right on mine in this pic, this is from where the previous owner attached the "overboost" button for the boost controller. I never used it so I removed it.

Japan has one of the highest % of smoking population in the world.

"I've heard that it's because a lot of Japanese are fond of the bling bling and wear lots of gold rings which may cause excessive wear on the wheel. "

False. Many men don't even wear wedding rings.

I've walked through many, many japanese car yards and have consistantly seen cars with low kms. Wound-back odos are definitely a fact of life, but I have a feeling that happens far less than people think - particularly with high-end performance cars (though I wouldn't say a GTST fits under that category).

Originally posted by DaiOni

"I've heard that it's because a lot of Japanese are fond of the bling bling and wear lots of gold rings which may cause excessive wear on the wheel. "

False.  Many men don't even wear wedding rings.

So they're all just a bunch of neurotic steering wheel pickers then?

dunno, my s. wheel and g. knob were both fairly worn and my car only had approx. 43k km on the clock (logs to back it up). I simply replaced them with momo and feed items anyway

sweaty hands maybe? though they often claim that they don't sweat as much as gaijin...

i used to think that the condition/wear of the interior/exterior items would be a sure indication of the 'true' age of the vehicle. I remember when shopping around for a 180SX a year ago....saw one on sale for around 40-ish Kms on the odo....but the interior and engine bay condition was just shocking....dusty, faded interior panels...worn pads...etc etc...

Now with my 96 S2, it came with 36ks on the odo, immediately i thought "yeah right"....but i was amazed at the condition of the interior as well as the engine compartment....then again parts could've been replaced etc etc....so i didn't really care....besides it went really well...

Took it to 2 seperate workshops to get some servicing done and mods....and both(without me asking) commented on the immaculate condition of the under-carraige and the 'as-new' condition of the stock parts....so i dunno what to think now....

either way i'm getting one of them 'Super-Strong' timing belts done soon just to be sure.....

A real sharp shifty used car salesman will know all about winding back or replacing the speedo, and all about wear on the steering wheel, carpet, drivers seat, drivers door, and pedal pads.

What the bugger will not change though, is the brake discs. They may even have been reground by the previous owner, but they will be always be thin on a very high mileage car.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I thought I'd come back and add something I JUST learned. A Toyota LandCruiser with a 1HZ, mates perfectly with a bottle of Nulon brake fluid. As in, it perfectly screws in. Great make shift funnel when you cut the bottom of it off. This may work for your Corolla.   Unfortunately, tipping a 10L drum is much harder than a 4 to 6L bottle, and they no longer include the easy pour tap which was just perfection to use previously.  
    • Guys since i bought r33 gts25t coupe 1994 automatic a/t(manual swap 350z gearbox)  all i got is problems, always problems. Lets start with that when i turn key into ignition(ON) fuel pump doesnt always works. Sometimes i have to turn key twice Off/on/off/on until it primes. Its new, dw300 - 340lph. My gearbox broke so i did gearbox swap, install different intake manifold, injectors and i take pipes. Car was sitting in garage for more than half a year. I did assembly all not that long ago and when i turn ignition cant hear prime. All of sudden it stopped working. Theres many videos on YouTube how to make relay mod on r33 straight from battery so i did and it doesnt work! 😰 30 - battery positive  87 - positive from fuel pump to relay 85, 86 - one of two wires from original fuel pump wires(light blue, grey) and it didn’t work. so I check on ignition and took original BLUE relays wires from trunk, next to fuses. (I believe it’s IGN+ and ECU pin 18. it didn’t work…  tried connecting (IGN+ from og relay) and (ECU 104 from 1of4 FPCM wires) to my new relay 85/86 and it didn’t work.  I unplug FPCM. Didn’t work. im thinking what’s wrong   fuel pump is working, if I leave IGN+ on 85 and 86 straight to ground it works but it’s just nonstop. Since it getting constant 12v after key in ON. light blue wire gives me 6-8v.  so how this should be connected? What causing ECU not giving — on pin? Or I did sth wrong and that’s why it doesn’t work? I need negative signal on ECU that control fuel pump. What this should be?
    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
×
×
  • Create New...