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Hi all

looks like my oil pump is about to give up after 19 years and 68km. We had the oil pressure guage on her today and its looking like its time to replace it. At idle its at 28PSI and at 3000rpm its at 40PSI and never goes higher.

The motor has the following comp 145 145 145 150 150 150. Bearings arent at all noisy and it doesnt go through any oil between changes.

While the engine is out is there anything else worth doing so i can try and make to motor reliable for a while longer? Im not after huge power. Its got just over 300kw on 18PSI (unopened internals with Nismo turbos and usual supporting mods) and i'm more than happy with that power.

So far Im contemplating sump extension and baffle, oil restrictor, water pipes changed, oil pump of course.

Also, approximately how much can i expect to be charged for the basic engine out, oil pump change and engine refit?

thanks heaps for any advise

MAtt

Check the bearings whilst its apart. Low pressure can and will be worn bearings as much as it is the pump.

Id recommend buying the best quality pump you can afford. N1's are common but the nitto pumps are far better.

First things first, if you are using the factory oil pressure gauge, it might be worth unplugging it at the sender (it's near the oil filter) and giving it a good clean, they are known to give incorrect readings when dirty.

what are ACL bearing like? any good? any other type worth considering?

Yeah i was really hoping the sender/switch was dirty and this would fix it however we had an external pressure guage attached and it was defintely the pressures mentioned above :D

Could be an option for the n1 oil pump or std with the billet pump gears available locally? everyomne seems to use the Acl bearings..

off topic whats the r36 like to drive? i've had eyes on a 32 for a while but the 36 seems a bit more practice?

the R36 is a brilliant car for its purpose. The interior is very appointed, seats are absolutely magic, the engine is capable of providing a good level of fun with great touque spread and the DSG gearbox is great. Besides the nose being a bit heavy causing initial understeer on corner entry its a very capable car. this can be fixed with a Haldex controller. Its amazing how many people comment on it. I got a black wagon and i think it looks the business too.

i bought it as the family car so my wife drives it most of the time with our 18mth old. I showed her the launch control feature the other day with our daughted in the back and they both loved it, so did i.

you will be surprised how much discount you can get at the moment. I got just on 20% off RRP which made it too compelling for me. R32 is a sweet thing as well saying that.

I got a quote to have the engine removed and reinstalled, oil pump replaced with N1 pump and some gaskets replaced. Labour 12 hours for everything. $1800. is this reasonable?

if you have the engine out, i would seriously strengthen your bottom end, i know your not up for big power but, why not have that piece of mind, better to be safe than sorry.. even if its just new rods, keep the standard pistons, they should be fine, its the rods that need to be stronger at that powerm, and also bearings are a must, even if they arent noisy.. n1 pump is fine, have seen them on nearly 400rwkw motors and no problems.

There is absolutely no need to upgrade rods at that power level. You could upgrade pistons, especially if the bores are a bit worn. I would pull the crank out and have it linished with a crank collar fitted. There is no point fitting a new pump without a collar. You could fit an aftermarket balancer to improve the life of the pump. If it doesn't see excessive revs/rev limiter then the n1 pump with a collar should last fine.

OIl restritors are about the only thing i would add apart from the new bearings of course.

what are ACL bearing like? any good? any other type worth considering?

Yeah i was really hoping the sender/switch was dirty and this would fix it however we had an external pressure guage attached and it was defintely the pressures mentioned above :)

King bearing are my choice atm, used to use acl's a few years back... the kings are far more crank friendly.

great advice. thanks all.

Does the crank have to be removed to have the crank collar attached?

Thinking about doing bearings, N1 oil pump and crank collar, oil restrictor and sump baffle. Was going to consider doing pistons too but was told the head should then be removed and more to get the pistons in.

crank will need to come out for the main bearings anyway. you probably could fit the collar with the crank still in the bottom end, but certainly not easy if the engine was still in the car. far easier to do it when the crank comes out.

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