Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I just got my car back from tuning a few days ago.

Its a pretty much stock r33 gtr, just with a power fc and an exhaust.

Its running 222rwkw @ 12 psi.

im getting around 420km to a tank driving sensibly and around 360 to a tank when i give her a bit of a hard time.

is this a good healthy result? power wise and economy?

what do you experts think :(

cheers!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270342-just-got-my-car-tuned-r33-gtr/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 75
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hey all,

I just got my car back from tuning a few days ago.

Its a pretty much stock r33 gtr, just with a power fc and an exhaust.

Its running 222rwkw @ 12 psi.

im getting around 420km to a tank driving sensibly and around 360 to a tank when i give her a bit of a hard time.

is this a good healthy result? power wise and economy?

what do you experts think :rolleyes:

cheers!

That sounds nice/healthy.

I get about the same as you, my mods are twin airpods, down, front pipes and high flow cat stock catback atm.

Stock +0.7 Bar (10.9 Psi) of boost.

If I really drive sensibly I can get 250kms just under half a tank, X 2 = 500kms, but I usually fill up when it hits half as half a tank last me about a week.

Plus you got an APexi Power FC which will help out with your air/fuel mixture.

hey, thanks for the info!

i've always wondered, are 32's lighter on fuel than 33's in general?

just curious!?

R32 GTR's are lighter, so there is less weight to push.

From memory I read this from some where...

R32 GTR = +0.7 (10.9 Psi) Bar Boost (Stock)

R33 GTR = +0.8 (12 Psi) Bar Boost (Stock)

R34 GTR = +0.9 (13 Psi) Bar Boost (Stock)

(I will have to check...)

So the more the R33 full boost, as apposed to the R32 full boost, the R33 will need more fuel as it is running a higher boost level.

But it's MARGINAL... So it should not make much of a difference but it will add up in the end.

hi all, thanks again for the comments and reassurance :devil:

here are some pics are requested -

apologies for the mess in the interior shot, i was sticking my turbo timer back on.

post-54322-1242660701_thumb.jpg post-54322-1242660756_thumb.jpg post-54322-1242660799_thumb.jpg

post-54322-1242660843_thumb.jpgpost-54322-1242660973_thumb.jpg

dude. that is dammmmm sexy. i love your instrument cluster ( nismo cluster ) i want that in white !!

awesome clean car.

Very tidy S3 mate, as for keeping it stock - yeah, right :(

With exhaust, front pipe, high flow panel filter in stock airbox and PowerFC my R33 just made 239RWKW, so power wise yours seems pretty much on the money.

No idea about fuel economy though, I just fill it up and go drive it some more >_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You very likely need to get it on a dyno and tune it. My assumption is, you've got an RB25DET tune in it, which has a different manifold, different injectors, and different cams as a minimum. What O2 sensor are you running?   When you say it runs extremely rich from idle all the way to redline, is this just free revving it you see that?
    • I seem to the be only person that is using a Haltech 2500 on an NA motor, I've installed a Bosch DBW throttle body to the OEM intake manifold and am having problems maintaining AFR even with the wideband o2.  It will run extremely rich at idle and up to redline, but under load it will go extremely lean in the 20s and i'm essentially having to rev it over 4k and feather the clutch to get it up to speed.  I've read a few other threads of about the butterfly, it seems removing the vacuum to it is supposed to have it remain open, i've noticed no difference under 4k with the vacuum line to it plugged.  I'm hoping someone here has had luck using the NA manifold with Haltech, and if they happen to have a tune for it.  
    • I don't know any details, but I really wouldn't be surprised if they do it as a LHD only version, at least initially.
    • Thanks for the replies everyone. Definitely a coolant push. Oil catch can is empty and always has been. As the engine is out now I'll be having a good look over things. I do have some detonation on the piston tops from a trigger issue back about 5 years ago. I felt it and shut off then bought a new ecu and changed the trigger. Never been an issue since. It never hurt the power, its made almost 80hp more since that incident but I will pull the bearing caps to take a look. If the bearings are damaged I will do a bottom end refresh. Head is being re conditioned at the moment and the block will be cleaned and checked to ensure it's flat. I'll go with a kameari gasket and see how it ends up. The other thing I'm not super keen on is the cylinder colours. I suspect this is from the inlet manifold. The plan will be to put it back together, retune and then stick a plazmaman billet inlet on it and retune. I'm happy with the power, if it makes a little more, then great, but I would rather just make everything more efficient at this stage.
    • Maybe they'll look to do a bunch of presales to help inject some cash fast for their financial issues...
×
×
  • Create New...