Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

WOOP THE DAY HAS ARRIVED! Rob from Fibrecrazy.com hand delivered my R34 gtt 4 door bodykit last night for me about 10pm.

It's the first and mine of course will be the trial fit. Once it's fitted and painted they'll copy off mine so anyone who buys future kits get perfect bolt up fit and no filing or modifications.

VERY HAPPY WITH THE RESULTS!!!

Sideskirts - Startcurved and square up towards the back (stretched gtr style)

19052009177.jpg

Front bar is bomex as many before have gone with so i'll show the usual pic

Nissan-R34-TopSecret-Bomex-Frontbar.jpg

Rear bar (custom one) - full wrap around with bomex inspired look to match in with the bomex front bar. I call it the STYLIN kit hahahahaha It's a little bit uras, a little bit bomex i guess.

19052009175.jpg

19052009176.jpg

So what you think??? I'm stoked! Unlike the east bear the rear section is one whole bar and its not as plain as the uras, totally suiting my needs. Rekon Rob is going to sell quite a few of these puppies. :P

FYI for those who are interested in what i found out there so far

EAST BEAR KIT - $6-8K

4doorkit02.jpg

4doorkit03.jpg

URAS KIT - $1300 au

uras4doorkit02.jpg

uraas4door01.jpg

Post pics when its on the car.

I wanna see how they look.

Usually with R34 4 doors, I only like the factory Nissan Aero kit and the BN Sports, Vertex and URAS kits.

East Bear looks nice as well, similar to the Nissan Aero kit, subtle, clean and neat.

Post pics when its on the car.

I wanna see how they look.

Usually with R34 4 doors, I only like the factory Nissan Aero kit and the BN Sports, Vertex and URAS kits.

East Bear looks nice as well, similar to the Nissan Aero kit, subtle, clean and neat.

i too like the Aero kit's but finding 1 is the hard part.

hence I'm still looking

is the rear bar from "stylin" lower then the stardard one as thats the main issue i've found... standard nissan kit looks great but rear of car looks like it sits too high as rear bits don't keep the low look of the rest of the kit.

Otherwise yeah nice kit. Still prefer the URAS Type GT.

thanks guys for clarifying the whole east bear, cross factory, bomex, top secret thing. I'll go home n unwrap the front bar sarvo to see if its top secret or bomex. I'd say it'll be top secret, which is cool with me.

Lanky71 - Yep the rear bar sits lower especially through the mid area.

Gotta get her in to get it done over the next week or two, cant wait to see the results.

For me the key is avoiding commercially available kits that are the same on any car (ie the skirted uras kit sold for almost any car), im going for something simple, but at the same time a little unique. I'm pretty confident i have what i wanted. The only line im worried about is the sideskirts from the front bar throught to the rear as they start off curved.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...

whoever was looking for the factory nismo kit .. you can get the front bumper from vivagarage.com

dcimports in perth seems to kit out half their cars with this kit as well .. check it out with them.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
    • Assuming your brake pads are not worn right down, I'd add a little brake fluid. Is there any sign of a brake fluid leak?
    • Hello all,  I need of some help. On my drive home my handbrake light lit up and started flashing. When I got home I checked my handbrake sensor under the centre console and nothing seemed out of the ordinary. I have scanned my car via the consult port, no codes shown. Checked my brake fluid as well which is half full. Tried unplugging the brake master but it didn't change anything. Thoughts on what it could be? The master float doesn't seem to be stuck. My car is an 1998 ER34 sedan GT. No hicas but has ABS Photos below 👇🏾 
×
×
  • Create New...