Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all

ok, it's come to my attention, or should i say, it's been brought to my attention that a stock clutch is not meant to handle 250rwkw, let alone 300rwkw. I did not know this (well at 250, i wasn't thinking about it) and with upcoming track days and extra tuning it seems i have a ticking time-bomb on my hands. (i think my clutch is doing fine :closedeyes:)

So, i've started my search for a clutch that can handle 300rwkw (what the car will be soon) and maybe a touch more.

-R34

-manual

-300rwkw+

-Daily driver (well not daily, but it's my only car)

-No drags (car will see next to no launches)

-Some track work (real track, with turns)

-Drifting unlikely

That's the start.

Now from what i've read, these manufacturers/people would be my most obvious options. Anyone else i should look at?

- Nismo (Gmax or Super Coppermix)

- Exedy

- Xtreme

- Jim Berry

Both Exedy and Xtreme seem to have a whole bunch of products, but i take it that my options would be narrowed for the 300rwkw+ range, and that's what i was hoping to get some advice on. Which particular models from the manufacturers (Exedy/Xtreme) would i be looking at?

Would i be right in saying there isn't much difference in peoples opinions of Exedy and Xtreme?

Obviously Nismo make some great streetable clutches that can handle BIG power (the gmax / super coppermix) but are also BIG dollars. Couple things with Nismo...

-Gmax clutches are discontinued?

-Any difference between silver or red covered gmax's?

-Did the Super coppermix replace the Gmax?

-Do both gmax/super coppermix come with lightened flywheels?

Rebuilding:

If i found a Gmax/Super coppermix that needed rebuilding, would this perhaps be the most desirable option if i could find a blown clutch at a decent price? My thoughts are that you end up with a streetable, very tough clutch, with i think lightened fly wheel, brand new but without that massive brand new Nismo price tag.

And lastly, Jim Berry. Yes there's a tiny bit of negative feedback going around regarding "that" particular case, but after bringing up result after result from 2006 to present with 99.9% raving about his clutches, i'd be happy to get one. But not sure where they stand relative to a rebuilt Nismo twin plate? And does Jim need my stock clutch, or parts of, meaning the car is off the road for a while?

So yeah, that's what i've dug up so far and i hope this turns out to be a useful resource for other people in the same boat.

I'm hoping to get some models i can chase down from Exedy/Xtreme to fit my needs (if you guys want to throw me some model names :laugh:), get some prices from as many people/traders as possible, report back and let you all know what i found, how much and who from.

Also try and get some quotes regarding Nismo rebuilds and Jim Berry quotes.

if there are any other brands i've overlooked that fit my needs, let me know :)

cheers,

chinny

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/270826-my-300rwkw-clutch-search-r34/
Share on other sites

nismo super coppermix single plate with f/wheel...

that's my next clutch when this one blows up...

i wish it would hold together forever as i love my clutch.... no-one knows what it is... it was in the car from japan, and it drivespretty much as easily as the stocker, yet it has survived the last 12 months getting kicked/sidestepped and slipped with 300rwkw, and for 4 years with 185rwkw before that!

i can help you out on a price for the nismo item, pm me

ive been driving around in my 300kw r34 for about 3-4months and have decided i want more power. so im about to put my Exedy Hyper Metal Single Plate Clutch up for sale. ill need either a twin or triple soon.

the clutch has been on the car for about 3-4months but is only ever driven on the weekend so you can rest assure its in good shape.

the problem with twin plate clutches is that youll be paying around 2000+ for one, although HKS are great except to pay another $500 ontop. you also have to bear with the noise it makes when u clutch in....kinda sounds like a loud clattering noise.

Nismo copper mix is prob one of the best Single plate clutch you can get. but you lookn at an easi $2500-3000. Since your only aiming for around 300kw.....stick to a single plate. it ensures drivability with great control at that powerange.

i absolutely loved my exedy single plate and would recommend nothing else for that powerange. The RE Customs R34 is running 350rwkw with the same clutch so youve got some leg room as well.

If your serious about a new clutch and interested in mine, PM me Daniel.

my cars also at RE customs so maybe we can work something out =D

Edited by Jap_Muscle

If you want a Jap clutch, go Nismo or ORC if you want something local, can't go past Jim Berry clutches, had one in my old Z and would have put one in my skyline if I didn't get such a good deal on the ORC (single plate - 400ps).

Exedy cushion button is a fairly good option. Not too bad on the street (albeit not as daily friendly as a Jim Berry) and will definitely handle the power.

not rated for 300rwkw

260 if i remember correctly

for 300 you need the hyper single i think its called

i had jim berry make mine up, he made me up a 6puck carbotics button clutch with a 33gtr pressure plate with built up to 3200lbs pressure.

feels almost like standard and is good for up to 350rwkw.

give him a call...ill tell you now its half the price of these brand name b/s and i personally believe alot better.

Spoke to Jim today, great guy :D

but, i think i found a clutch, JB, but it's rated at 4400lb! obviously that's going to handle the power, but is a 4400lb JB (still single plate) going to be nasty on the street?

(this clutch has travelled about 80k's)

Spoke to Jim today, great guy :blink:

but, i think i found a clutch, JB, but it's rated at 4400lb! obviously that's going to handle the power, but is a 4400lb JB (still single plate) going to be nasty on the street?

(this clutch has travelled about 80k's)

have u ever driven anything other then the OEM clutch?

its hard to explain to you how nasty a clutch is for the street unless youve experienced something aftermarket.

when you start using twin/triples....and some singles......rather then some play....its a on/off style clutch.

posted this in the JB thread, but thought i'd ask in here as well...

is there any sort of direct correlation between clamping pressure and drive-ability? i've found a GTR Jim Berry clutch that's fine for my R34 GT-T (both pull type clutches) but it's clamping force is 4400lb - which seems to be a decent amount higher than the majority of figures that are around 3500lb.

The clamping force alone sounds like it's more than up to the task but i wasn't sure if that translated to being a pig on the road?

I've been running an Exedy GTR 4puk solid button for some time behind the RB30DET making a little over 300rwkw so making a fair bit more torque than the average rb25/26. I went with the GTR clutch as they run the heaviest pressure plate.

No issues with slip. Bites nicely and is very streetable.

My old Extreme clutch was fairly useless.. Shuddery, very heavy on the leg and would slip easyish. I put it down to different materials as there was a noticeable difference in the look of the material.

Edited by SLAPS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...