Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey guys i bought a oil cooler and relocation kit and i was wondering what the best way to install it.

can i mount the relocation so the oil filter points up? if so should i crank the car over a few times when i do oil changes to get pressure?

or should i just mount the filter down?

also should i have it so the the comes from the block to cooler to filter back to the block? or other way around?

cheers

Put the oil filter relocator wherever it's most convenient, mounting it pointing up can be alittle messy when the filter comes off. If you are worried about pressure try a smaller oil filter like the Z445 (edit: seems the thread is different than the Z145a) I think it is, instead of the Z145a

Edited by Moodles2
Put the oil filter relocator wherever it's most convenient, mounting it pointing up can be alittle messy when the filter comes off. If you are worried about pressure try a smaller oil filter like the Z445 (edit: seems the thread is different than the Z145a) I think it is, instead of the Z145a

ok arent you suposed to fill the filter and lines up with oil every oil change? would be hard if you mounted to filter point up, id rather it pointing up but if i had to fill the filter up everytime then id mount it pointing down?

yeah you do not need to drain the oil cooler every change. it's too hard unless your cooler has drain plugs fitted. if you do dran it simply remove cas or similar so you can crank the engine without it fiting. then lit it crank until you get oil pressure on the gauge. then your good to go. the twin oil coolers in my RX7 do have drain plugs on them though which is nice, but i've never seen an aftermarket kit that does. and the small amount of old oil in the lines and cooler is not a big problem. especially if you use good oil.

I never drained the cooler or lines either, ran one on my SR for 3years with no probs. If your not running a thermostat just remmeber in winter its gonna take a while for the oil to get to operating temp.

  • 5 months later...

if you loose a motor I personally would replace the oil cooler. you can have them backflushed but if it spun a bearing and bits of bearing material made it through the pump then chances are there is some in your cooler. It can be painful if it's an expensive one but is it worth risking the new motor? it does depend on exactly what happened though.

always always always replace the oil cooler, and also the cooler on the factory water to oil cooler next to the oil filter. $300 but you just cannot flush them out properly. As always I speak from experience in these matters :P

Duncan & BBaron if I ever doubt ya point me back to this thread

pulled the factory oil cooler thingo apart an well pictures say a thousand words they reckon

post-33041-1257568223_thumb.jpg

see now how impossible it would be to clean as well

oh well back to Nissan to hand over more hard earned

reckon I will pull all the sensors an stuff off an hot tank the base too

whats another coupla gaskets etc

always always always replace the oil cooler, and also the cooler on the factory water to oil cooler next to the oil filter. $300 but you just cannot flush them out properly. As always I speak from experience in these matters :blush:

You must go through a lot of oil coolers... :)

Priced factory cooler today now $420.10 according to my local Nissan

got a look at an rb20 today reckon the filter block looks like it would bolt up

unfortunately the owner of said rb20 wouldnt let me unbolt it to try it out?????

Just wondering if there is a recommend reliable oil cooler setup that is tried and tested for a 26, even it costs a little more? Given our dollar, a Japanese or even American unit would be reasonable I imagine?

The trust setup comes with a BNR32 arrangement: http://www.nengun.com/trust-greddy/oil-coo...andard-location

Or perhaps the PWR core with some custom lines: http://www.horsepowerinabox.com/HPIAB2/category82_1.htm

  • 2 weeks later...

it is fairly straightforward to get rid of the factory cooler and bolt a oil filter relocator directly to the block. a lot cheaper when nissan want that sort of money for the factory bit.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So, version 4 intake is on its way I was looking at these a while ago but at around $200 or more it was a little pricey for something that might not work, but, I had it in my watch list, but, I got a message saying it was on special, and I had a code thingie to use, it eventually came in at $120 delivered, so BAM, BUY NOW.....LOL I'll need to have a look when it arrives but I feel it will "look" better than what I currently have, as it comes with a PCV fitting, so I will be able to get rid of the alloy pipe that goes to the throttle body with the PCV fitting  Well, that's what the voices in my head are telling me  Oh, and this happened today Yeap, it was a Trojan, and it was cheap, so I headed back to the hardware store and actually spent a little bit more on a heavy duty,  one that was actually recommended by a plumber mate, a Cyclone one with a fibreglass handle that is actually rated for clay The broken shovel will eventually be "modified" into a short handle shovel
    • When you pulled it off, there is no signs of blown head gasket? Is it possible you have some other issues going on? Possible cracked blocked? Or do you think it's straight up lifting the head? Did you check what the head was torqued to before pulling it down (To see if possibly they're stretching, or starting to break threads out etc)?
    • Seems like a decent result for a modded JZX110. They are bulky in comparison to the 100 and 90 models (which I'd prefer myself) but they are getting very few and far between here in JP these days. Thanks for the detailed review and the import process into the UK. I also have a car which I'm hoping to export from Japan at some stage so it's good to know if someone from the UK was interested in it. By the way the corrosion underneath is par for the course for cars which were located in/near the mountains or along the Japan sea coastline. They get huge amounts of snow every winter and the sodium chloride is used on the roads. Many cars have some kind of rubber like treatment underneath but they tend to limit it to the wheel arches underbody and fuel tank. Suspension arms and sub-frames will have similar corrosion to your JZX110 which is a common sight. See it all the time and car dealers here generally don't even mention it unless asked.
    • If the sound goes away when you clutch in, the 1.5/2 way diffs are just shit, and you are a normal person. The diff is likely "fine" but driving at anything under 30kmh is a violent horrible experience. It would be exaggerated with solid diff bushings and subframe bushings if you have those.
×
×
  • Create New...