Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26DETT

Ported and Polished Head

HKS 2530 turbos

Forged and balanced internals

Aiming for 350awkw

Couple questions guys;

1) Getting ready to reassembly the motor and I need to source a new set of gaskets for car. Should I use metal gaskets for the intake manifold/throttle bodies or is this overkill under 20psi?

2) When picking a head gasket I dont want to loose anymore mid range or bottom end but with the goal of 350-400kw should I buy a 1.2mm head gasket to keep things a bit safer, or stick with the 1.0mm?

3) Putting a power FC back on her, should I do the first engine start off the stock ECU from before rebuild then once it ticks over switch to FC?

4) How many KMs should I have on the clock before the first tune, a lack of good tune and the RB oil problem was what killed the girl first time round, turns out stock ECU on bigger turbos is stupid

Thanks guys

Genuine nissan gasket kit + jap brand headgasket kit which includes the intake and exhaust metal gaskets (tomei or Hks)

my mech recommends a 1.2mm gasket

if the last tune was bad you'd want to retune it for run in before a power tune

When mine was rebuild (and the previous motor)

PowerFC in from the start, bed the rings, tune it up... drive it home.

Nothing more too it. Oil change 1,000-2,000km's later just for a look-see and then 5,000km as normal.

Running in is a myth - i've seen more RB's belted from the ring bed in than i have RB's that do the '1,000km' run in rubbish. None of them run any different so why bugger around for 1,000kms? ;)

When mine was rebuild (and the previous motor)

PowerFC in from the start, bed the rings, tune it up... drive it home.

Nothing more too it. Oil change 1,000-2,000km's later just for a look-see and then 5,000km as normal.

Running in is a myth - i've seen more RB's belted from the ring bed in than i have RB's that do the '1,000km' run in rubbish. None of them run any different so why bugger around for 1,000kms? :cheers:

Agreed.

As for gaskets i alwasy use a phenolic gasket on the inlet (big drops in IAT on a GTR and RB30's) but for the headgasket i like to know what material has been removed from the head and block during machining.

A metal MLS head gasket and a genuine full gasket kit can now be supplied in a kit (minus gen head gasket) from MDS spares in melbourne at alot less coin than everywhere else.

Agreed.

As for gaskets i alwasy use a phenolic gasket on the inlet (big drops in IAT on a GTR and RB30's) but for the headgasket i like to know what material has been removed from the head and block during machining.

A metal MLS head gasket and a genuine full gasket kit can now be supplied in a kit (minus gen head gasket) from MDS spares in melbourne at alot less coin than everywhere else.

got a number i can yell for a price?

  • 3 weeks later...

Nobody here can tell you what head gasket to use...it depends if the block has been decked and how much, head been has been ground and how much, what sort of pistons etc etc...everything to do with the coompression ratio. The person who is building the engine will be able to tell you...you could use a standard Nissan gasket if you wanted to be really safe.

Id go the gasket set from MD Spares. It is actually a genuine Nissan kit but without any Nissan markings on it and therefore much less $$.

Use everything except the inlet gaskets.

In their place just use Threebond, as the paper gaskets will blow out under high boost. Just make sure all surfaces are clean, do not machine any surfaces as it will create big dramas, just clean very carefully with a scraper.

MD Spares kit is cheap, I think justjap sell them a few $$$ cheaper.

A friend is assembling the engine, standard compression pistons, the block was cleaned up but I dont remember being told a heap was shaved off it, I want to run around 400kw when finished with this motor so I think I will get the metal head gasket to allow safety margins.

CRD sells a Nitto rb26dett metal gasket set (Intake manifold, exhaust manifold and throttle body) for $215 delivered to me, alot cheaper than the jap a/m option

yeah the greddy ones from greddy oceania are cheap atm too, they are on the clearance list... bugger maybe it was link and Nismo items...

Edited by URAS
  • 2 months later...

With the nitto or other metal type intake manifold and throttle body gasket, are you meant to use any type of gasket cement (permatex #3, etc.) when you go to reassemble the bits?

Taking the opportunity to install a oil filter relocation kit at the same time to get rid of that headf$%k..

Taking the opportunity to install a oil filter relocation kit at the same time to get rid of that headf$%k..

f**k I hate the mess taking a stock filter off in a GTR makes, im probably a tardo which is why its messy, the relocation kit is the way to go...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • New or used transmission? Alignment will be the same with engine running or not. If new, i'm presuming it's a clutch release bearing size issue. If used, are you certain it's a CD009/A and not an older CD008 or less? They had known synchro issues. In my opinion, these transmissions should always be purchased new, they're dirt cheap and you avoid dealing with old revisions. 
    • I like your thinking! Looking forward to see how it turns out.
    • You've got yourself a good old game of have fun. That shit is annoying as hell to remove. Thankfully for you, yours is on metal, most of the stuff I take it off is plastic, so typically hear guns are out. I normally end up continually dragging my thumb with pressure over it to get it to peel up. Eucalyptus oil then works well for getting residue and last remnants off.   Edit: plastic scraper might be worth while too. One that'll dig into the foam tape, but not scratch the paint.
    • So I ride and race motorcycles for fun and have always used a van to transport my track weapons. Figured towing a racebike with a skyline would be different and if done right could - "look fully sik" or quite cool for us grown ups lol. Pic of yours truly on two wheels I also have a trailer already kitted out to transport my bikes ...and I have a spare set of rims that match the car that I was going to rebarrel to get deeper dish at some stage but they have just been gathering dust. Sooooooo it is only logical.... Stay tuned !!    
    • If by "flap disc" you meant "chocolate wheel".... then they are OK for getting off stubborn remnants. But not for stuff with bulk depth. If by "flap disc" you meant "abrasive paint f**ker"....
×
×
  • Create New...