Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

RB26DETT

Ported and Polished Head

HKS 2530 turbos

Forged and balanced internals

Aiming for 350awkw

Couple questions guys;

1) Getting ready to reassembly the motor and I need to source a new set of gaskets for car. Should I use metal gaskets for the intake manifold/throttle bodies or is this overkill under 20psi?

2) When picking a head gasket I dont want to loose anymore mid range or bottom end but with the goal of 350-400kw should I buy a 1.2mm head gasket to keep things a bit safer, or stick with the 1.0mm?

3) Putting a power FC back on her, should I do the first engine start off the stock ECU from before rebuild then once it ticks over switch to FC?

4) How many KMs should I have on the clock before the first tune, a lack of good tune and the RB oil problem was what killed the girl first time round, turns out stock ECU on bigger turbos is stupid

Thanks guys

Genuine nissan gasket kit + jap brand headgasket kit which includes the intake and exhaust metal gaskets (tomei or Hks)

my mech recommends a 1.2mm gasket

if the last tune was bad you'd want to retune it for run in before a power tune

When mine was rebuild (and the previous motor)

PowerFC in from the start, bed the rings, tune it up... drive it home.

Nothing more too it. Oil change 1,000-2,000km's later just for a look-see and then 5,000km as normal.

Running in is a myth - i've seen more RB's belted from the ring bed in than i have RB's that do the '1,000km' run in rubbish. None of them run any different so why bugger around for 1,000kms? ;)

When mine was rebuild (and the previous motor)

PowerFC in from the start, bed the rings, tune it up... drive it home.

Nothing more too it. Oil change 1,000-2,000km's later just for a look-see and then 5,000km as normal.

Running in is a myth - i've seen more RB's belted from the ring bed in than i have RB's that do the '1,000km' run in rubbish. None of them run any different so why bugger around for 1,000kms? :cheers:

Agreed.

As for gaskets i alwasy use a phenolic gasket on the inlet (big drops in IAT on a GTR and RB30's) but for the headgasket i like to know what material has been removed from the head and block during machining.

A metal MLS head gasket and a genuine full gasket kit can now be supplied in a kit (minus gen head gasket) from MDS spares in melbourne at alot less coin than everywhere else.

Agreed.

As for gaskets i alwasy use a phenolic gasket on the inlet (big drops in IAT on a GTR and RB30's) but for the headgasket i like to know what material has been removed from the head and block during machining.

A metal MLS head gasket and a genuine full gasket kit can now be supplied in a kit (minus gen head gasket) from MDS spares in melbourne at alot less coin than everywhere else.

got a number i can yell for a price?

  • 3 weeks later...

Nobody here can tell you what head gasket to use...it depends if the block has been decked and how much, head been has been ground and how much, what sort of pistons etc etc...everything to do with the coompression ratio. The person who is building the engine will be able to tell you...you could use a standard Nissan gasket if you wanted to be really safe.

Id go the gasket set from MD Spares. It is actually a genuine Nissan kit but without any Nissan markings on it and therefore much less $$.

Use everything except the inlet gaskets.

In their place just use Threebond, as the paper gaskets will blow out under high boost. Just make sure all surfaces are clean, do not machine any surfaces as it will create big dramas, just clean very carefully with a scraper.

MD Spares kit is cheap, I think justjap sell them a few $$$ cheaper.

A friend is assembling the engine, standard compression pistons, the block was cleaned up but I dont remember being told a heap was shaved off it, I want to run around 400kw when finished with this motor so I think I will get the metal head gasket to allow safety margins.

CRD sells a Nitto rb26dett metal gasket set (Intake manifold, exhaust manifold and throttle body) for $215 delivered to me, alot cheaper than the jap a/m option

yeah the greddy ones from greddy oceania are cheap atm too, they are on the clearance list... bugger maybe it was link and Nismo items...

Edited by URAS
  • 2 months later...

With the nitto or other metal type intake manifold and throttle body gasket, are you meant to use any type of gasket cement (permatex #3, etc.) when you go to reassemble the bits?

Taking the opportunity to install a oil filter relocation kit at the same time to get rid of that headf$%k..

Taking the opportunity to install a oil filter relocation kit at the same time to get rid of that headf$%k..

f**k I hate the mess taking a stock filter off in a GTR makes, im probably a tardo which is why its messy, the relocation kit is the way to go...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Both heads will be equally reliable or unreliable depending on what you do to them.  Stock the RB26 head will flow more. You have access to the stock intake ITB manifold on the RB26 cheaply which flows really well(1000hp+).   Arguably more aftermarket support for RB26, though in Aus we love our RB30 SOHC heads too.    The only downsides to the RB26 head is if you have a VL commodore and want to keep the SOHC look.  Where you may have an issue is drilling out the rb30 block for the bigger head studs but if you are building a big power motor you'd probably put bigger studs on the SOHC head too.  This is just about finding a good machine shop, sometimes easier said than done.  RB30 head worked can make big power just like a Rb26 head, so really it actually more comes down to what your preference is for your car.  People now even making billet versions of both.
    • 2630s work perfectly well. There is something to be said for just using the 30 head, as it saves all the pain of the conversion, still makes tons of power, still sounds cool, etc etc. 2630 will obviously make more power again, but the differences are not stupidly big. It really depends on whether you're racing for sheep stations or not. If it's dead serious, then it's a 26 head. If it's just for fun, it could go either way. But the 26 head and the effort to get it set up, etc etc, is part of the fun.
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani Refurbed astra pump thats the cover for it in the boot I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • I've been building a 26/30 for a few years now. I've had the head built with all the good stuff. I had a 32 gtr but blew it up and yes its all going into a vl but im looking for some advice from some RB nuts on pros and cons on putting a 26 head on a 30 bottom end is it worth it Works are as follows Head -Extensive porting 1mm oversized supertech valves Supertech double springs Supertech valve guides Supertech titanium retainers Tomei solid lifters Tomei 270 x 10.25 cams Head drain Bottom end series 2 rb30 block Cp ceramic coated pistons Eagle rods Romac balancer Oil restrictions  O ringed blah blah spent a fortune And will get a girdle because the 30s arent used to handling that much rpm Nitto billet oil pump Hypertune plenum 6boost mani I did have a precision 6262 but sold it because drag car life. Currently building the ass end full 4 link floater rear end with a 2 speed  But the dilemma i have is my mate rekens I should just stick with the 30 head for reliability. Has any one had any issues with mounting the 26 head ie compression blowing gaskets etc. Just looking for some advice from people who have gone down this route. Here's some photos. Blew the oil pump in the gtr and decided to rip the motor out at the time and do a full build only to find it had been a repairable write off so went down this path.     
    • lol no cats running str pipes … might put the high flow back on but I suspect it might effect my ignition timing a bit. 
×
×
  • Create New...