Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'm upgrading from T517Z 10cm's. I made 399.6rwkw with the T517Z's on a bone stock(internally) 26 on 98.

I like my trust intake, charge and dump pipe kits and I want to stay with low mounts.

Car will be used for everything! Drag(pb 10.6@138), open circut and lots of street duties.

Has anyone made numbers with the T618Z kit?

Dyno sheets?

On road driving experience?

From first hand experience, how do they compare to HKS GTR'S?

Cheers

J

post-22624-1243198012_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/271587-gtr-t618z-kit-go-no-go/
Share on other sites

how much more power do you want? and how much more do you reckon the stock motor will take on 98RON with old factory internals?

I mean if you can't squeeze any more out of the 517s and you need more power then the 618s are the logical choice really as like you say you can keep all your current intake and exhaust gear.

Ive done a few sets of T618Z's and usually against my recomendations, the engine work required to make them work is extensive... but for your application they might fit the bill.

The T618z's are designed for drag and circuit use and i have personally been in a GTR with the 618's on a well setup TRUST car and it was awesome (700+ps @ 1.8bar), i supplied TRUST's receipe to a shop out sunbury way, including all the parts about 4-5 years ago but due to reasons i cant post it never performed.... shame as it was a waste and had heaps of potential.

Big cams, port work, big boost (they are rated 1.5 - 1.9bar) and rpm are needed to make them work, a nice white street / ciruit GTR here in melb (creatd built) has run low to mid 10's with a custom pair of garrets built by rotomaster to T618z specs... again with a built motor to suit... expect to turn your motor inside out.

Edited by URAS
Heres a dyno shit from autobarn.

post-9955-1243211766_thumb.jpg

HAHA i supplied the information for that flyer years ago....when i was doing the buying for their stores (TRUST / BLITZ / APEXI etc) I DID NOT supply the fit times though :cheers: ..... i think if you look at the Td06-l2 kit flyer for SR20 they just stole it from that :P

some of the said receipe is included in that flyer.

Edited by URAS

Thanks for the input thus far guys.

I should have stated that a built motor is on the way.

AND on that note, has anyone tried sleveing a stock block with good results???? I want to keep the origional block and head in the car if I can, but I know it willl split at 500rwkw at 2 bar + .

hey whats the finned alloy doo dacky in the braided above the intake runners for cylinder 1&2 ?

That's a super, metabolic, fuel particle, atomatizer device to keep the molicule chains in a row and the fuel atonomous.

Fuel filter..

I upgraded my T517z to a T618Z a while back.

I lost a bit of bottom end and gained a lot more at top end as expected.

It's on a 3L so it's not laggy at all.

I would love to know how these compare to the HKS GTRS though.

When do you start making usable boost with the 3lt? What was the diffrence in respose roughly? 300-500 rpm???

Don't suppose you have a dyno sheet?

Cheers

J.

I had to sleeve a block a while back to keep standard size bores....I can't imagine any other reason you would do it though. the standard block, properly prepped, will make to 500+ you are talking about

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi. This is just my curiosity because iam sure the tuner figure something out...but either way i want to ask. The "problem" is that the Nistune ECU (Stagea FW and RB25DET NEO from Stagea) sees many times the speed than the speedo does(he says the speedo show 120 km/h - correct speed and the ECU shows like 510km/h ) I told him that this car/tranny getting speed from rear diff. If iam not mistaken the RB25DET NEO "need" to see tranny speed sensor? (my tranny has the plug for it). So couple of "question" If he connects/wire the speed sensor to the tranny...are the signals gonna intervene and if...what if he disconnects the rear diff one and the speedo stops working? Or the "new" sensor from the tranny "take over" and will not going need the one from diff? As i said i know he figure/get that done...iam just curious to know what are the solutions 🙂 
    • Your IACV is set to idle too low. You need to adjust it via the screw Duncan mentioned. From memory it should be 650rpm with the valve electrics unplugged. What is it trying to idle at with the IACV plugged in?
    • Ahhh, I need the whole head unit. I definitely needed to roll back through and review your setup, ha ha! Neat setup they have going on. I just need a full double din head unit. But I want good and responsive. I might have to review what the likes of pioneer have out these days.
    • Ok so after much research and talking with knowledgeable people I've got my turbo conversion done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.  Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd. But nothing drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic.  I'm sure there is may e 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Dose anyone here have any ideas?   Cheers guys
    • Sorry I haven't been following all the detail, so you may have tried this. Does it idle with the tiniest bit of throttle you can add? You've mentioned the IACV, does it have an AAC valve and have you adjusted it at all (ie, screw the idle adjust screw all the way in, then back it out a couple of turns until idle is stable)?
×
×
  • Create New...