Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ive just had a Vi-Pec ecu installed in my R34 GT-T by godzilla motorsports, Mark is a great tuner and he swears by the Vi-pec. Hes got the fastest GTR in Aus on Radials and hes taking his motech ecu out and replacing it with a Vi-pec.

If youve got any questions ide give him a call hes very easy to talk to.

  • Replies 85
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

My tuner Glenn "Lumpy" Campbell was the WA Autronic agent and is now the WA Vi-PEC agent. I went Autronic in my SR and he did the tune and when we've discussed each he hasn't mentioned that one is leaps and bounds better than the other.

The Vi-PEC will likely have better support now and into the future now that Ray Hall doesn't support Autronic and is behind Vi-PEC.

The Vi-PEC also sounds more fool proof and quicker/easier to setup and I like the sound of the active knock control on the V88 - but if E85 becomes widely available knock may become a thing of the past - however, the ECU will need to be able to control big injectors with the additional flow requirements of E85 - so that may be a consideration along with idle control etc.

I guess if a tuner is well versed in the ideosyncrycies of the relevant ECU then I guess its a moot point providing the chosen ECU is suitable for the task at hand.

Edited by juggernaut1

can everyone get over the link vs vipec argument its getting abit old now, read the old thread if you wanna argue about that, i would prefer to read decent detailed info on the unit like what sensors can it run etc.

can the v88 run and log 6 egt's? and a crank trigger setup is no problem with it is it?

Edited by unique1
At the end of the day any ecu is only as good as the guy that is punching in the numbers and that is fact can not be disputed. The best ecu in the hands of a shite tuner will give a poor result when compared to lets say a lower spec ecu with a really good tuner.

totally agree with dazmo & beer baron, reminds me of when i used to race bikes...1 of my mates on his out dated 600 would obliterate others on their 1000's, same analogy

vipec seems to be an aust. product & it sounds like a great ecu.

like most things these days that come out of aust: i.e. pfitzner, ppg, motec etc...better keeping the money here than o'seas IMO

Vipec is actually designed and made in NZ.

Vipec is a great ecu and is Australian like Split Enz & Russell Crowe. :down:

  • 3 weeks later...

I got a price on the vipec v44 plug in for r32 gtr from insight motorsport...$1880 ecu alone.

$3331 installed and tuned...which i thought was a bit much considering i have seen godzilla motorsport quote $2500 supplied ,installed,tuned.

Who else can supply and tune vipec in sydney...or i just take it to godzilla motorsport.

DiRT chime in if you would.

No offence but has the VIpec been tested with a new engine configuration - as in mutiple cam control, DBW control, knock sensor retard functions? This is one area where all aftermarket ECU's seem to fall over. I'm yet to see an aftermarket ECU control Cams better than the factory ECU in almost all applications let alone DBW control - f**k me, most even struggle with stepper motor control!

You would think by now that most aftermarket ecu's would be at least able to deliver consistant injector and ignition control -but I've seen issues with all the big name ECU's - including Haltech, Motec and Autronic!!

On a side note I had a look at the Vipec interface - looks rather clumbsy! Was it copied from Motec?

No offence but has the VIpec been tested with a new engine configuration - as in mutiple cam control, DBW control, knock sensor retard functions? This is one area where all aftermarket ECU's seem to fall over. I'm yet to see an aftermarket ECU control Cams better than the factory ECU in almost all applications let alone DBW control - f**k me, most even struggle with stepper motor control!

You would think by now that most aftermarket ecu's would be at least able to deliver consistant injector and ignition control -but I've seen issues with all the big name ECU's - including Haltech, Motec and Autronic!!

On a side note I had a look at the Vipec interface - looks rather clumbsy! Was it copied from Motec?

no offence at all...great questions.

do yourself a favor...jump on the vi-pec forum and ask Ray Hall yourself. its the best way to answer any queries by going straight to the product development team.

ezy 9's the price of the vi-pec has increased due to manufacturing costs (5%) Mark is looking after you if thats what he quoted for the instal and tune.

Edited by DiRTgarage
I got a price on the vipec v44 plug in for r32 gtr from insight motorsport...$1880 ecu alone.

$3331 installed and tuned...which i thought was a bit much considering i have seen godzilla motorsport quote $2500 supplied ,installed,tuned.

Who else can supply and tune vipec in sydney...or i just take it to godzilla motorsport.

DiRT chime in if you would.

we do the ecu, 2.5bar map and temp sensor for $1650 its a bit over the rrp but import duy and freight from NZ is a bitch.

as for sydney JEM or anyone for that matter should have no issues with the vipec / LINK its software is very self explanatory.

Edited by URAS

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Latest Posts

    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
    • Yea - I mean I've seen my fuel pump which is decades old and uh, while I'm not saying this with real knowledge... but I sure get the ick at using anything in the fuel system that produced the state of that pump. Many years ago I went through multiple pumps (and strainers) before I dropped the tank to clean it out with extreme violence. I'm talking the car would do maybe 50km before coming to a halt, which resulted in me cleaning out the filter with some brake cleaner and going on my way. None of my stuff ever looked like what came out of your fuel tank. I don't think I'd be happy with it unless every single component was replaced (or at least checked/cleaned/confirmed to be clean here).
×
×
  • Create New...