Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I have been wanting to get a nice 2nd car for a while now and really want to get a skyline, Im preferably after a manual r32 gtst or gts. What I would like to know is how much I will need to buy a fairly cheap stockish example in average/reasonable condition?

Right now I can pay up to 6k for one, not including 1.5k set aside for maintanance and repairs. Is this reasonable? I'll probably do around 5-10k kms on it a year so what can I expect maintenance costs to be?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272447-can-i-afford-a-skyline/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 42
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

I have been wanting to get a nice 2nd car for a while now and really want to get a skyline, Im preferably after a manual r32 gtst or gts. What I would like to know is how much I will need to buy a fairly cheap stockish example in average/reasonable condition?

Right now I can pay up to 6k for one, not including 1.5k set aside for maintanance and repairs. Is this reasonable? I'll probably do around 5-10k kms on it a year so what can I expect maintenance costs to be?

@ $6000 NO

I would set aside 8-12K for a R32 skyline. Some that you pick up for 8K will be that cheap for a reason. Loads of km's, bad panels and paint or absolutely thrashed motor etc. If you buy one for a lil higher it a neat clean car.

Then comes insurance of 1-1.8K for full comp if you go that way. And with the cheaper car something will need to be replaced soon enough cos its so cheap.

Don't bother getting a GTS, it is non turbo and too much of a mess around to turbo (via engine swap or bolt ons)

If it near 100,000km you will need to change the timing belt, maybe water pump etc. which can cost up to 1000$

If you don't have 10K get a S13 Silvia or a 180sx. They are cheaper and more common. But if u can hold out and save up get a R32 GTST, they are brilliant cars

/my 2c

stealthed: u can also get an R33 for 9k would u buy a manual turbo R33 for 9k? id rather pay 12k for an R32 and buy something good

Yea, I didnt say "Good" 32, But thats Generally where they start for Prices. +1 to Buying a Decent one for around 12k tho

I sold my R32 GTS4T auto for just a touch more than your budget, was mechanically superb, just needed some of cosmetic work. Shop around and you'll find one.

Obviously the mint ones at 11-12k are the best but if you can't afford one, you cant afford one lol.

OVA 9000

LMFAO!!!!!!!!!!

to much 4chan?

I agree that if you want an import on a budget then s13/180sx is the way to go for your budget

otherwise you will need to save more for a Skyline wheter it be a 32/33

why is everyone going on about insurance?

By the looks of it he wouldnt be even be able to afford the excess that would come with full comp for a turbo import. It would prob be close to 2k. So why bother? Just be wasting 1.8k minus say 500 for third party = 1.3k.

Just go third party + fire and theft and leave it @ that.

Use the 1.3k on something else. =)

If I cant get one for 6k then I'm just gonna save up a bit more, currently I'm saving $100-150 a week so sooner or later I'll have enough. I'm more interested in how much I should have set aside for maintainence and repairs. What does the average stockish 32 gtst cost to maintain per year, is 1.5k enough or will I need more?

As for insurance I'm an 18 year old male no crash history but a 71 in a 50 zone speeding ticket so I'm not even going to ask about full comp in a turbo import, I'll stick with 3rd party maybe fire + theft. How much is this gonna cost roughly?

As for insurance I'm an 18 year old male no crash history but a 71 in a 50 zone speeding ticket so I'm not even going to ask about full comp in a turbo import, I'll stick with 3rd party maybe fire + theft. How much is this gonna cost roughly?

My old bare 3rd party was just over $300 (no fire & theft though) with Just Car, I was on Ps, was 21 & have no fines.

JC also quoted $550ish for fire & theft so I would say it would be around $300 to $400 for you depending on where you live & stuff.

iv seen some 32's go for 6K, i purchased my last R32 GTST Auto for 6500 from NSW but by the time i freighted it, cleaned it up alot, converted it to manual, put rego on it, it owed me about 9K.....if you purchase one ex east you will pick one up cheap.. auto's are allways cheaper, manuals you pay a bit more for usually. most 32's under 8K are usualyl pretty rough tho..

if your buying a 32 under 10K be prepared to throw some dollars at it for maintanence

Edited by BANGN

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
    • But first....while I was there, I also swapped across the centre console box for the other style where the AV inputs don't intrude into the (very limited !) space.  Part# was 96926-4GA0A, 284H3-4GA0B, 284H3-4GA0A. (I've already swapped the top 12v socket for a USB bulkhead in this pic, it fit the hole without modification:) Comparison of the 2: Basically to do the console you need to remove the DS and PS side console trim (they slide up and back, held in by clips only) Then remove the back half of the console top trim with the cupholders, pops up, all clips again but be careful at the front as it is pretty flimsy. Then slide the shifter boot down, remove the spring clip, loose it forever somewhere in the car the pull the shift knob off. Remove the tiny plastic piece on DS near "P" and use something thin and long (most screwdrivers won't fit) to push down the interlock and put the shifter down in D for space. There is one screw at the front, then the shifter surround and ashtray lift up. There are 3 or 4 plugs underneath and it is off. Next is the rear cover of the centre console; you need to open the console lid, pop off the trim covering the lid hinge and undo the 2rd screw from the driver's side (the rest all need to come out later so you can do them all now and remove the lid) Then the rear cover unclips (6 clips), start at the top with a trim tool pulling backwards. Once it is off there are 2 screws facing rearwards to remove (need a short phillips for these) and you are done with the rear of the console. There are 4 plugs at the A/V box to unclip Then there are 2 screws at the front of the console, and 2 clips (pull up and back) and the console will come out.
×
×
  • Create New...