Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey SAUer's

Just thought id start a topic asking everyone which they believe is the better skyline.

I know overally the 34 is (newer, better parts etc) but as far the "oldies" go which is the better?

i was told (probably by a insecure source that the 32 is due to it being overall lighter, dispites

it's RB20 compared to the 33's RB25.

But the 33 was given more engine displacement due to more weight. so i ask the question,

Which overally (engine, maintenance, power and even fuel economy) is the best?

As in factory R32 vs factory R33.

Cheers

buckets out.

Edited by buckets
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272552-r32-vs-r33/
Share on other sites

  • Replies 57
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

the people who take personal stab at others are the problem.

im just curious, shouldnt matter what car i drive.

no need to go and try to put me down on that.

i wanted just genuine answers, for curiosity sake.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272552-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-4627701
Share on other sites

lol sorry mate new the skylines australia forum,

not many posts lol

hoping to have an r33 s2 under my belt in maybe about a month, hopefully less.

was just contemplating a 32, i love the shape of the 32 but the 33 is just newer and love

the interior.

just trying to find out peoples thoughts

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272552-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-4627724
Share on other sites

ok mate,

this has been covered a few times - so itd b worth doing a search to hunt down other threads to get more info etc,

buuut my 2cents,

i have an r32 gtst with an rb20engine and box and a rb25turbo - and she goes sweet, slides easy

but if i had more cash i'd probs want an rb25engine and box,

so the bang for buck choice is probs the r33,

with the r33 u get the bigger engine, stronger box, bigger brakes, an anchor :ninja: and a newer car

just depends what you are into buddy

32>33 imo :laugh:

:kiss:

edit: heres one of the threads i was talking about buddy, have a read

:) clicky

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272552-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-4627741
Share on other sites

This thread makes baby jesus cry :thumbsup:

I cant believe im going to reply in this... (cough)

Honestly, stock for stock, R32 GTS-t vs R33 GTS-t

The R33 is faster, smoother, stronger, better value for money, younger & better brakes

The R32 is more rigid, lighter & has a classic cult following

What im saying is they both have a place in the world for different reasons. Not all later models are better, but with Skylines they met what the market wanted in 1989 with the R32, then they met the market again in 1993 with the R33, cars are an evolution of what the target market wants... As such they met the market in 2007 with the R35GTR... Its all relivent...

Your choice, but for me it always comes down to age... Both are more than 10 years old now, some R32's are infact 20 years old this year...

But on a budget, id go for the youngest R33 you can afford (ie. Series 2) so your on the right track...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272552-r32-vs-r33/#findComment-4629419
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Not really, but the heater box is pretty simple mechanically....if the door is one way the air bypasses the heater core and if it is the other way it goes through it for warm air.  If you are sure the actuator you moved manually is for the heater mix (there would also be one for output air direction) then I'd take the heater box out and see what is happening (you'll have to regass and re-coolant the systems afterwards) BTW pp724 onwards from the GTR workshop manual cover the system in good detail, it is probably worth checking. I think the IAT sensor might be a problem electrically for getting cold (if you got 24 error code not -24 it thinks the incoming air is -50c) and it covers how to test the sensor (although most likely it is either not plugged in or a wire is damaged)
    • Use the GKTech subframe bush and bring your subframe 10mm closer to the chassis. You'll need to fix an exhaust hanger to suit. One of the best mods I've done.
    • You'd really have to pull it apart further to know, it least you can be confident that the one heading to the back is not connected any more. There was once a ground on the shifter seal mount too, your head unit issue could be that simple
    • Perfect, I'll get to it this winter then at the same time as I weld on my anti squat kit. 
    • Alright so my 32 only has one temperature no matter what degree you set it to. I’ve tried disconnecting the servo motor arm and moving it either direction and got no change. I’ve fixed the leak in my AC and re charged it and with it on and clutch engaged it still blows hot even though the low pressure pipe going to the firewall is ice cold. Both heater core hoses are hot while running as well. Diagnostic code showed 24 for intake air temperature sensor. Anybody got any ideas?
×
×
  • Create New...