Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

the antennas prob arent hooked up right, had one with the antenna screw in mismarked , but also the GPS antenna must see the sky clearly, where did they mount it. behind metalized windowtint ? or upside down ?

the digital tv, well the signals arent the best stationary let alone moving but they do make antennas that can lock on the signal at 200mph

the radio signal antenna in skylines sucks a best. diversity, twin input , creates more problems with mutipath on aftermarket radios, if they just hacked off the old wires and not properly converted it, the signal will suck .!!!

yeah these radios , for the cost and features arent bad, the GUI graphics blows ass, might have to hack it..lol

and the manuals are below average . still for the cost and what you get, Pioneer and a few others should reduce there pricing , cause ebay is selling the crap out of these radios.

lol

  • Replies 79
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Ok so I pulled it all out today, turns out the problem with the GPS was the GPS antenna was plugged into the TV antenna outlet!

All works fine now....or at least until I went to put it back in the car and discovered the GPS antenna cable in the back of the deck fouls on a structural bulkhead and will not fit without some serious mods :P

So I am back to where I started...but at least know what the problem is!

Still cant get any TV reception, im told the Aerial that comes with it is crap so thought I may try something else before giving up (not to worried about TV function)

These guys seem pretty cheap anyone have any ideas on which Aerial would be the best upgrade?

http://www.onvon.com/electronics-amfm-ante...5045e2be91abf62

The DVB-T output from the back of the deck is a Female SMA which also seems to cause a few problems when looking for an aerial

  • 3 weeks later...

I've put my antenna searching on hold for the time being but would be interested to know what option you decide on and how it goes.

I was told by my local car radio place that the in-glass antenna would cost around $170 or the one with front and rear bumper antenna would be $150 for each.

I've had a quick search over the net to see what alternatives I could find or if I could find them for a tad cheaper but no luck.

hey guys got my HT-9001s model 2 din installed just b4 xmas was working great till it stoped accepting cds and dvds it says loading while the cd is in then just spits em out.... trying to contact the seller of them on ebay so i let u know if he fixs it under warranty....tv reception is def poor and none at all when going over 20kph my brother has an antenna which he is going to try it cost me $120 and fits to the rear windscreen i let u know how it works

  • 2 weeks later...

I had one of these Chinese units back in 2004.

It was replaced under warranty twice (would turn off with the car's ignition and then never wake up again).

The remote control warped and popped apart from heat even though I kept it in my glove box.

The third time it failed, I took it out and reverted back to my old single din JVC head unit, which I'm still using now, several cars later.

well guys im stoked he replaced the whole head unit no problems at all but the antenna for the tv my brother got worked no better than the one supplied with the deck has anyone found one that actullay works?or is there just crap reception on freeways?

I'm actually thinking of getting one of those HT-9001 models as well. Only thing stopping me is the installation cost of those, are they easy to do by yourself? As $350 for installation is way too heavy for me. I'm only interested in the GPS and CD player, maybe radio too, TV and all not too interested. How's the product so far for those who've gotten it?

I took a few days to completely install it. That's not to say the car was off the road for that time, I just took extra time to run the wires through to the boot and rear bar for the rear camera etc.. and each night I'd put the car back together enough to use it again to get to work.

Still going strong, fingers crossed for that to continue :(

  • 3 months later...

I just bought one of these cheapies from ebay as well, its got all the goodies - BT, tv, gps etc. I thought id see how it goes...

link to ebay item

but how do i hook up my sub to it when it only has one wire labeled 'sub woofer out'? to hook it up to my amp doesn't it need two wires- pos+ and neg-?

I just bought one of these cheapies from ebay as well, its got all the goodies - BT, tv, gps etc. I thought id see how it goes...

link to ebay item

but how do i hook up my sub to it when it only has one wire labeled 'sub woofer out'? to hook it up to my amp doesn't it need two wires- pos+ and neg-?

subwoofers use Mono signals for mono amps, you don't need two RCA in most cases. on the amp case you might have two inputs but inside it mixes the signal for you. if you feel inclined you can use a rca splitter to go from one to two outputs ?

since I have no idea what your using for sub amps I can only make suggestions. not exact configuration instructions

  • 1 month later...
  • 1 year later...
  • 2 weeks later...

My mate actually bought one of these. So far with only a few months of use, the SD card slot has failed, the GPS never worked, the interface would glitch and become slow to respond and the discs would eject flippin hot after playing for a while.

Conversely, I bought a Kenwood unit for the gf's X-Trail and never looked back since, excellent unit with great features.

It pays to buy something decent first up and avoid the problems. cheers.gif

  • 2 years later...
  • 6 years later...

sorry for grave digging up a really old thread....

also have a HOATOA HT-9000i unit
gps works
bluetooth works
radio works
haven't grounded out the brake wire for movie while driving (too busy driving to be watching movies !)
it's been installed for years now, (probably as long as this thread has been around .... )
the gps did stuff up for awhile but after some scouring of the interwebs i did find if you take out the navigation sdcard and delete the save folder it goes back to the initialization menu.

updating maps can also be a pain, but can be done , i'm running iGo Primo version 2 on it and while slow initially otherwise seems fine, i'm looking into upgrading the firmware/windows ce on this unit so far to no avail, planning on getting a brand name android unit sometime soon anyway ....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The other problem was one of those "oh shit we are going to die moments". Basically the high spec Q50s have a full electric steering rack, and the povo ones had a regular hydraulic rack with an electric pump.  So couple of laps into session 5 as I came into turn 2 (big run off now, happily), the dash turned into a christmas tree and the steering became super heavy and I went well off. I assumed it was a tyre failure so limped to the pits, but everything was OK. But....the master warning light was still on so I checked the DTCs and saw – C13E6 “Heat Protection”. Yes, that bloody steering rack computer sitting where the oil cooler should be has its own sensors and error logic, and decided I was using the steering wheel too much. I really appreciated the helpful information in the manual (my bold) POSSIBLE CAUSE • Continuing the overloading steering (Sports driving in the circuit etc,) “DATA MONITOR” >> “C/M TEMPERATURE”. The rise of steering force motor internal temperature caused the protection function to operate. This is not a system malfunction. INSPECTION END So, basically the electric motor in the steering rack got to 150c, and it decided to shut down without warning for my safety. Didn't feel safe. Short term I'll see if I can duct some air to that motor (the engine bay is sealed pretty tight). Long term, depending on how often this happens, I'll look into swapping the povo spec electric/hydraulic rack in. While the rack should be fine the power supply to the pump will be a pain and might be best to deal with it when I add a PDM.
    • And finally, 2 problems I really need to sort.  Firstly as Matt said the auto trans is not happy as it gets hot - I couldn't log the temps but the gauge showed 90o. On the first day I took it out back in Feb, because the coolant was getting hot I never got to any auto trans issues; but on this day by late session 3 and then really clearly in 4 and 5 as it got hotter it just would not shift up. You can hear the issue really clearly at 12:55 and 16:20 on the vid. So the good news is, literally this week Ecutek finally released tuning for the jatco 7 speed. I'll have a chat to Racebox and see what they can do electrically to keep it cooler and to get the gears, if anything. That will likely take some R&D and can only really happen on track as it never gets even warm with road use. I've also picked up some eye wateringly expensive Redline D6 ATF to try, it had the highest viscosity I could find at 100o so we will see if that helps (just waiting for some oil pan gaskets so I can change it properly). If neither of those work I need to remove the coolant/trans interwarmer and the radiator cooler and go to an external cooler....somewhere.....(goodbye washer reservoir?), and if that fails give up on this mad idea and wait for Nissan to release the manual 400R
    • So, what else.... Power. I don't know what it is making because I haven't done a post tune dyno run yet; I will when I get a chance. It was 240rwkw dead stock. Conclusion from the day....it does not need a single kw more until I sort some other stuff. It comes on so hard that I could hear the twin N1 turbos on the R32 crying, and I just can't use what it has around a tight track with the current setup. Brakes. They are perfect. Hit them hard all day and they never felt like having an issue; you can see in the video we were making ground on much lighter cars on better tyres under brakes. They are standard (red sport) calipers, standard size discs in DBA5000 2 piece, Winmax pads and Motul RBF600 fluid, all from Matty at Racebrakes Sydney. Keeping in mind the car is more powerful than my R32 and weighs 1780, he clearly knows his shit. Suspension. This is one of the first areas I need to change. It has electronically controlled dampers from factory, but everything is just way too soft for track work even on the hardest setting (it is nice when hustling on country roads though). In particular it rolls into oversteer mid corner and pitches too much under hard braking so it becomes unstable eg in the turn 1 kink I need to brake early, turn through the kink then brake again so I don't pirouette like an AE86. I need to get some decent shocks with matched springs and sway bars ASAP, even if it is just a v1 setup until I work out a proper race/rally setup later. Tyres. I am running Yoko A052 in 235/45/18 all round, because that was what I could get in approximately the right height on wheels I had in the shed (Rays/Nismo 18x8 off the old Leaf actually!). As track tyres they are pretty poor; I note GTSBoy recently posted a porker comparo video including them where they were about the same as AD09.....that is nothing like a top line track tyre. I'll start getting that sorted but realistically I should get proper sized wheels first (likely 9.5 +38 front and 11 +55 at the rear, so a custom order, and I can't rotate them like the R32), then work out what the best tyre option is. BTW on that, Targa Tas had gone to road tyres instead of semi slicks now so that is a whole other world of choices to sort. Diff. This is the other thing that urgently needs to be addressed. It left massive 1s out of the fish hook all day, even when I was trying not too (you can also hear it reving on the video, and see the RPM rising too fast compared to speed in the data). It has an open diff that Infiniti optimistically called a B-LSD for "Brake Limited Slip Diff". It does good straight line standing start 11s but it is woeful on the track. Nismo seem to make a 2 way for it.
    • Also, I logged some data from the ECU for each session (mostly oil pressures and various temps, but also speed, revs etc, can't believe I forgot accelerator position). The Ecutek data loads nicely to datazap, I got good data from sessions 2, 3 and 4: https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-2?log=0&data=7 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-3?log=0&data=6 https://datazap.me/u/duncanhandleyhgeconsultingcomau/250813-wakefield-session-4?log=0&data=6 Each session is cut into 3 files but loaded together, you can change between them in the top left. As the test sessions are mostly about the car, not me, I basically start by checking the oil pressure (good, or at least consistent all day). These have an electrically controlled oil pump which targets 25psi(!) at low load and 50 at high. I'm running a much thicker oil than recommended by nissan (they said 0w20, I'm running 10w40) so its a little higher. The main thing is that it doesn't drop too far, eg in the long left hand fish hook, or under brakes so I know I'm not getting oil surge. Good start. Then Oil and Coolant temp, plus intercooler and intake temps, like this: Keeping in mind ambient was about 5o at session 2, I'd say the oil temp is good. The coolant temp as OK but a big worry for hot days (it was getting to 110 back in Feb when it was 35o) so I need to keep addressing that. The water to air intercooler is working totally backwards where we get 5o air in the intake, squish/warm it in the turbos (unknown temp) then run it through the intercoolers which are say 65o max in this case, then the result is 20o air into the engine......the day was too atypical to draw a conclusion on that I think, in the united states of freedom they do a lot of upsizing the intercooler and heat exchanger cores to get those temps down but they were OK this time. The other interesting (but not concerning) part for me was the turbo speed vs boost graph: I circled an example from the main straight. With the tune boost peaks at around 18psi but it deliberately drops to about 14psi at redline because the turbos are tiny - they choke at high revs and just create more heat than power if you run them hard all the way. But you can also see the turbo speed at the same time; it raises from about 180,000rpm to 210,000rpm which the boost falls....imagine the turbine speed if they held 18psi to redline. The wastegates are electrically controlled so there is a heap of logic about boost target, actual boost, delta etc etc but it all seems to work well
    • hahah when youtube subscribers are faster than my updates here. Yes some vid from the day is up, here:  Note that as with all track day videos it is boring watching after the bloopers at the start.  The off was a genuine surprise to me, I've literally done a thousand laps around the place and I've never had instability there; basically it rolled into oversteer, slipped, gripped and spat me out. On the way off I mowed down one of the instructor's cones and it sat there all day looking at me with accusing cone eyes as I drove past. 1:13:20 was my fastest lap, and it was in the second session, 3rd lap.  It (or me!) got slower throughout the day as it got hotter.      
×
×
  • Create New...