Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has any one on here hooked up a switch to turn the ABS on/off in a skyline? I know it can be done as i've seen a few skylines in mags/clips with in-dash kill switches for the ABS, just not sure what wiring they are tapping into to do it. Is there an ABS relay or something that you can cut the power from?

Cheers guys.

Edited by PM-R33
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/272947-turning-abs-off-via-a-switch/
Share on other sites

I had a read, didin't really answer anything for me lol.

I want to be able to turn it off when I don't want to have it engaging. Reason being, if i over power the ABS and have it get an error, the light sometimes stays on for a day or two before it magically turns itself back off and has ABS working again. On the street i want the ABS to work, however during other off street activities i don't want to be over powering it trying to get it to turn it self off and get an error. Whenever i throw the car into circle work or try to light up the tyres (even if i don't hit the brakes) it can still get an erorr and then i don't have ABS until it decides to reset itself.

Hope that kind of makes sense. I'd just rather have control over it. Thought it might be a simple thing to do, but i can't find out how.

you just replace the ABS fuse with a switch. simple. remember to run a fuse though inline with your switch rated the same as the one you've removed.

Thanks for that man, thought it would be something simple :D

My point is that a competent driver doesn't need ABS. A competent driver reads the road, and can anticipate the need for brakes, not "Oh SHHIIIITTTTTT", and stomp on brake pedal.

I got my 32 in 2000. It has ABS. It was the first car I ever had that had ABS. I have activated the ABS on 2, maybe 3, occasions. The first was on the track shortly after I got the car, and I didn't really realise at the time that it was the ABS. The rest of the time, I simply apply brakes up to the threshhold of wheel lockup, in effect I am the ABS unit.

Learn to drive, and you won't need ABS, so you won't need the swtch.

What happens if you forget to turn the ABS back on? (and don't say you won't - we all forget things accasionally)

My point is that a competent driver doesn't need ABS. A competent driver reads the road, and can anticipate the need for brakes, not "Oh SHHIIIITTTTTT", and stomp on brake pedal.

I got my 32 in 2000. It has ABS. It was the first car I ever had that had ABS. I have activated the ABS on 2, maybe 3, occasions. The first was on the track shortly after I got the car, and I didn't really realise at the time that it was the ABS. The rest of the time, I simply apply brakes up to the threshhold of wheel lockup, in effect I am the ABS unit.

Learn to drive, and you won't need ABS, so you won't need the swtch.

What happens if you forget to turn the ABS back on? (and don't say you won't - we all forget things accasionally)

so your saying every time you get behind the wheel your mind is 100% on the job from start to finish, your eye's never leave the road for a split second. A blanket stament like a compitent driver dosn't need abs is bs. abs is still a very handy tool for emergencies, it only needs to save you once to be worth having.

but the point about forgetting to turn the unit back on is very valid

My point is that a competent driver doesn't need ABS. A competent driver reads the road, and can anticipate the need for brakes, not "Oh SHHIIIITTTTTT", and stomp on brake pedal.

A competent driver in a good car doesn't need AWD either.

What happens if you forget to turn the ABS back on? (and don't say you won't - we all forget things accasionally)

Your ABS dash light comes on when your ABS unit has a fault. If he checks his dash, and he should to at least check his speedo occasionally, he'll be aware that ABS is non-functional.

But a competent driver doesn't need a dash either, I suppose. You can just learn to judge speed by watching how fast the scenery moves, determine your RPM by the engine noise, and work out if your car's having some other engine fault by feeling the ECU cut power.

sav man's got a point that every day is not race day for a street car in the real world, and distraction or tiredness can affect your ability to react in a timely manner. All it takes is some kid (or animal) to run out from between 2 big cars. Something you're not likely to see. A reflexive stab of the brakes with a swerve to avoid in the wet could put you in big trouble.

As an aside, in a modern car with decent ABS the car is quicker with than without. It'll pull up faster more consistently, and it'll allow the driver to trail brake with less concern of having the car under or oversteer.

The original ABS was a bit useless, like any Version 1 product, but the refinements made to it in the last several decades has made it a viable electronic performance feature.

My point is that a competent driver doesn't need ABS. A competent driver reads the road, and can anticipate the need for brakes, not "Oh SHHIIIITTTTTT", and stomp on brake pedal.

I got my 32 in 2000. It has ABS. It was the first car I ever had that had ABS. I have activated the ABS on 2, maybe 3, occasions. The first was on the track shortly after I got the car, and I didn't really realise at the time that it was the ABS. The rest of the time, I simply apply brakes up to the threshhold of wheel lockup, in effect I am the ABS unit.

Learn to drive, and you won't need ABS, so you won't need the swtch.

What happens if you forget to turn the ABS back on? (and don't say you won't - we all forget things accasionally)

have u ever stared at a wall going 150k's an hour sideways?

its easy to say its fine to regulate ur brake pedal when everything is going ok, but id like to see that competancy going to work in an emergency situation where u have a split second to act before u hit something at high speed.

My god guys, i didn't mean for this to become a discussion about whether or not a person needs ABS lol.

The ABS error light will come on when disengaged and the missile switch cover i have will be open, so it will be a bit hard to forget to switch it back on. I'm not worried bout that at all.

My point is that a competent driver doesn't need ABS. A competent driver reads the road, and can anticipate the need for brakes, not "Oh SHHIIIITTTTTT", and stomp on brake pedal.

I got my 32 in 2000. It has ABS. It was the first car I ever had that had ABS. I have activated the ABS on 2, maybe 3, occasions. The first was on the track shortly after I got the car, and I didn't really realise at the time that it was the ABS. The rest of the time, I simply apply brakes up to the threshhold of wheel lockup, in effect I am the ABS unit.

Learn to drive, and you won't need ABS, so you won't need the swtch.

What happens if you forget to turn the ABS back on? (and don't say you won't - we all forget things accasionally)

Your not always on the track tho are you?

So your saying that if someone pulls out infront of you on a highway, your doing 100km/h, your going to analyze the situation and apply to the threshold? i bet you jam them on because you got the fright of your life.

But i agree, this is no pro/con discussion, let it go. ABS is fine, and if its doesnt come on, your braking fine.

  • 2 weeks later...

blind_elk how old are you?

We adults use our cars to commute, the road is for us to get from A to B, it's not a race track.

Example, you're driving 70km/h down a main road, a stupid 5 year old kid runs out to catch his ball, you won't have freaken time to "anticipate" when to brake, your instant reaction is to stomp on the brakes.

Imagine that example IN THE WET.. good luck you 15 year old keyboard warrior.

Nope it was a factory option. Easy way to tell, turn your key onto ignition, do you have an ABS light at the top left of your dash? In your engine bay your ABS is in the top right behind the strut tower with lots of hard lines going across your firewall to the other side. Check those two things and you will know if you have ABS.

Edited by PM-R33
  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I came here to note that is a zener diode too base on the info there. Based on that, I'd also be suspicious that replacing it, and it's likely to do the same. A lot of use cases will see it used as either voltage protection, or to create a cheap but relatively stable fixed voltage supply. That would mean it has seen more voltage than it should, and has gone into voltage melt down. If there is something else in the circuit dumping out higher than it should voltages, that needs to be found too. It's quite likely they're trying to use the Zener to limit the voltage that is hitting through to the transistor beside it, so what ever goes to the zener is likely a signal, and they're using the transistor in that circuit to amplify it. Especially as it seems they've also got a capacitor across the zener. Looks like there is meant to be something "noisy" to that zener, and what ever it was, had a melt down. Looking at that picture, it also looks like there's some solder joints that really need redoing, and it might be worth having the whole board properly inspected.  Unfortunately, without being able to stick a multimeter on it, and start tracing it all out, I'm pretty much at a loss now to help. I don't even believe I have a climate control board from an R33 around here to pull apart and see if any of the circuit appears similar to give some ideas.
    • Nah - but you won't find anything on dismantling the seats in any such thing anyway.
    • Could be. Could also be that they sit around broken more. To be fair, you almost never see one driving around. I see more R chassis GTRs than the Renault ones.
    • Yeah. Nah. This is why I said My bold for my double emphasis. We're not talking about cars tuned to the edge of det here. We're talking about normal cars. Flame propagation speed and the amount of energy required to ignite the fuel are not significant factors when running at 1500-4000 rpm, and medium to light loads, like nearly every car on the road (except twin cab utes which are driven at 6k and 100% load all the time). There is no shortage of ignition energy available in any petrol engine. If there was, we'd all be in deep shit. The calorific value, on a volume basis, is significantly different, between 98 and 91, and that turns up immediately in consumption numbers. You can see the signal easily if you control for the other variables well enough, and/or collect enough stats. As to not seeing any benefit - we had a couple of EF and EL Falcons in the company fleet back in the late 90s and early 2000s. The EEC IV ECU in those things was particularly good at adding in timing as soon as knock headroom improved, which typically came from putting in some 95 or 98. The responsiveness and power improved noticeably, and the fuel consumption dropped considerably, just from going to 95. Less delta from there to 98 - almost not noticeable, compared to the big differences seen between 91 and 95. Way back in the day, when supermarkets first started selling fuel from their own stations, I did thousands of km in FNQ in a small Toyota. I can't remember if it was a Starlet or an early Yaris. Anyway - the supermarket servos were bringing in cheap fuel from Indonesia, and the other servos were still using locally refined gear. The fuel consumption was typically at least 5%, often as much as 8% worse on the Indo shit, presumably because they had a lot more oxygenated component in the brew, and were probably barely meeting the octane spec. Around the same time or maybe a bit later (like 25 years ago), I could tell the difference between Shell 98 and BP 98, and typically preferred to only use Shell then because the Skyline ran so much better on it. Years later I found the realtionship between them had swapped, as a consequence of yet more refinery closures. So I've only used BP 98 since. Although, I must say that I could not fault the odd tank of United 98 that I've run. It's probably the same stuff. It is also very important to remember that these findings are often dependent on region. With most of the refineries in Oz now dead, there's less variability in local stuff, and he majority of our fuels are not even refined here any more anyway. It probably depends more on which SE Asian refinery is currently cheapest to operate.
    • You don't have an R34 service manual for the body do you? Have found plenty for the engine and drivetrain but nothing else
×
×
  • Create New...