Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ello.

I have a bit of a problem with me clutch/gearbox - 1st is very difficult to select, and 2nd also gives me trouble (and even 3rd slightly shows some resistance) but especially the reverse gear..

Now I'm quite sure it's not the gearbox (?) as I initially thought, but more the clutch - the reason I say this is that even though the clutch is fully pressed down, when I select reverse (eventually after quite a struggle), it feels as if the gear is now engaged as the car starts to move slowly (on a flat plain).

Also, my clutch has recently become (more) heavy... so the problem wouldn't be simple like a stretched clutch cable would it? It's a GTR, so it can't be a simple problem.....

Anyway - the car is off to the mechanic tomorrow, would like to just have some idea of what it may be before I take it there.

Cheers for your help! :laugh:

Argh. Sounds expensive. Do you know if it's a painful job and if it's expensive? :laugh:

You can do it yourself with a 12 & 14mm socket, a phillips screwdriver, a pair of pliers, and a rebuild kit for about $15-20 for each.

Piece of cake.

Hey guys -

We actually found that the clutch booster cylinder has split so there's an air leak there, so that's being replaced. Also getting my leaking ABS unit replaced as I assume the brake master cylinder also needs to come out of the way for the clutch booster cylinder to be replaced.

I hope there isn't a problem with the clutch's pressure plate as well :)

The GTR strikes the bank again ;)

Yeah what was the verdict I have the exact same problem, 1st and reverse are almost impossible which makes traffic lights interesting.

Can you let us know what it was, from what I have ready usually clutch related i.e worn cover, pressure plate or both. I'm running a OS Giken twin plate which has already been refurbished back in 2006, loooks like it's time again!

M

I had a similar problem with my previous clutch.

I had a leaking slave cylinder so had that replaced. When they installed it they didn't bleed the clutch fluid properly, I noticed it was a little crunchy on the way home when I picked it up but kinda came and went.

Had zero time to do it myself, and the workshop were too far away, so kept driving, clutch pedal kept getting heavier and heavier, hard to get into gears sometimes. Clutch wore out as it wasn't disengaging completely, then pivot ball snapped and fell out the bottom one day.

New clutch for me. Had a lot of other stuff being done around the same time so new clutch made sense anyway - thats how I justify it....

Thanks for the reply Paul, do you think having air in the system contributed to your clutch failure or would you say it was worn regardless?

I'll have a look at my slave and master shortly and see anything dodgy. My car is running just shy of 600hp so it's possible mine is just worn from use.

M

I had a similar problem with my previous clutch.

I had a leaking slave cylinder so had that replaced. When they installed it they didn't bleed the clutch fluid properly, I noticed it was a little crunchy on the way home when I picked it up but kinda came and went.

Had zero time to do it myself, and the workshop were too far away, so kept driving, clutch pedal kept getting heavier and heavier, hard to get into gears sometimes. Clutch wore out as it wasn't disengaging completely, then pivot ball snapped and fell out the bottom one day.

New clutch for me. Had a lot of other stuff being done around the same time so new clutch made sense anyway - thats how I justify it....

must be the season for failing clutch boosters mine has a nice split through it! im after a new one anyone got a source for em? also heard you can use some model nevara clutch master cylinder and clutch booster dont suppose anyone has more info on this?

cheers crew

Dion

would you say it was worn regardless?

Nah the clutch was in good condition, was not too old and didn't go out in the usual way. It was either air in the fluid or the clutch fork & pivot were not aligned properly causing the crunch, and ultimately caused the pivot to fail.

600hp eh... yeah I imagine you would move through clutches fairly regularly. Better than gearboxes or driveshafts.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
    • Hi,  Just joined the forum so I could share my "fix" of this problem. Might be of use to someone. Had the same hunting at idle issue on my V36 with VQ35HR engine after swapping the engine because the original one got overheated.  While changing the engine I made the mistake of cleaning the throttle bodies and tried all the tricks i could find to do a throttle relearn with no luck. Gave in and took it to a shop and they couldn't sort it. Then took it to my local Nissan dealership and they couldn't get it to idle properly. They said I'd need to replace the throttle bodies and the ecu probably costing more than the car is worth. So I had the idea of replacing the carbon I cleaned out with a thin layer of super glue and it's back to normal idle now. Bit rough but saved the car from the wreckers 🤣
    • After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
×
×
  • Create New...