Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey,

Just spoke to the guys at competition coatings, and they were telling me they silver coating isnt good enough for the rear housing, and they need to use the black coating, which is more expensive, and not as appealing to the eye. He said he has done a few in silver, but mainly for show cars, and if they get too hot they go grey, he said it doesnt look too bad. Just wondering if anyone has done silver, or got any pics of a silver one, thats gone grey.

cheers

Edited by choku_dori
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273287-hpc-coating-turbo-rear-housing/
Share on other sites

yea normally the coating will go powdery and come off a bit but it stays a duller version of the colour you put on most the time... make sure you get it blasted or acid cleaned before you do it though otherwise its a waste of time.

personally anything that is getting a bit of surface rust like exhaust manifolds or whatever i just dip/spray it in phosphoric acid which chemically turns the surface black/gray and it stays that way.

phosphoric acid also works really well for brightening/ cleaning aluminium and is allot safer than the hydroflouric/nitroc acid mixtures.

  • 3 months later...
yea normally the coating will go powdery and come off a bit but it stays a duller version of the colour you put on most the time... make sure you get it blasted or acid cleaned before you do it though otherwise its a waste of time.

personally anything that is getting a bit of surface rust like exhaust manifolds or whatever i just dip/spray it in phosphoric acid which chemically turns the surface black/gray and it stays that way.

phosphoric acid also works really well for brightening/ cleaning aluminium and is allot safer than the hydroflouric/nitroc acid mixtures.

just to double check that is basically what Rust Converter is right?

Well the silver Comp coatings is using is good for 1600oF - they should know well enough that they can use a special primer to raise that threshhold up to 2000oF to match the blacks rating.

couple of hints :

-clean hands and no oil on the parts before using it for the first time will ensure maximum shine

-you can repolish the chrome coating with metal polish, just remember to use methylated spirits to clean off the polish residue before starting the car up again

I use the same products that they are listed as a distributer for - Leon if you want some extra info chat me

Any idea what it would cost to do an ehaust manifold, one piece split dump and exhaust housing?

No chrome tho, just a factory looking grey or black.

Edited by W0rp3D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, that's fine**. But the numbers you came up with are just wrong. Try it for yourself. Put in any voltage from the possible range and see what result you get. You get nonsense. ** When I say "fine", I mean, it's still shit. The very simple linear formula (slope & intercept) is shit for a sensor with a non-linear response. This is the curve, from your data above. Look at the CURVE! It's only really linear between about 30 and 90 °C. And if you used only that range to define a curve, it would be great. But you would go more and more wrong as you went to higher temps. And that is why the slope & intercept found when you use 50 and 150 as the end points is so bad halfway between those points. The real curve is a long way below the linear curve which just zips straight between the end points, like this one. You could probably use the same slope and a lower intercept, to move that straight line down, and spread the error out. But you would 5-10°C off in a lot of places. You'd need to say what temperature range you really wanted to be most right - say, 100 to 130, and plop the line closest to teh real curve in that region, which would make it quite wrong down at the lower temperatures. Let me just say that HPTuners are not being realistic in only allowing for a simple linear curve. 
    • I feel I should re-iterate. The above picture is the only option available in the software and the blurb from HP Tuners I quoted earlier is the only way to add data to it and that's the description they offer as to how to figure it out. The only fields available is the blank box after (Input/ ) and the box right before = Output. Those are the only numbers that can be entered.
    • No, your formula is arse backwards. Mine is totally different to yours, and is the one I said was bang on at 50 and 150. I'll put your data into Excel (actually it already is, chart it and fit a linear fit to it, aiming to make it evenly wrong across the whole span. But not now. Other things to do first.
    • God damnit. The only option I actually have in the software is the one that is screenshotted. I am glad that I at least got it right... for those two points. Would it actually change anything if I chose/used 80C and 120C as the two points instead? My brain wants to imagine the formula put into HPtuners would be the same equation, otherwise none of this makes sense to me, unless: 1) The formula you put into VCM Scanner/HPTuners is always linear 2) The two points/input pairs are only arbitrary to choose (as the documentation implies) IF the actual scaling of the sensor is linear. then 3) If the scaling is not linear, the two points you choose matter a great deal, because the formula will draw a line between those two points only.
    • Nah, that is hella wrong. If I do a simple linear between 150°C (0.407v) and 50°C (2.98v) I get the formula Temperature = -38.8651*voltage + 165.8181 It is perfectly correct at 50 and 150, but it is as much as 20° out in the region of 110°C, because the actual data is significantly non-linear there. It is no more than 4° out down at the lowest temperatures, but is is seriously shit almost everywhere. I cannot believe that the instruction is to do a 2 point linear fit. I would say the method I used previously would have to be better.
×
×
  • Create New...