Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • 1 month later...
  • Replies 245
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

As I said mike any time at all, and thanks for the kind words.

Hopefully during the few hours you spent here you took away a few ideas.

I will update the thread very shortly mate, there is a heap to be seen.

If you do want photos of something specific that you didn't get to take just let me know.

Edited by Risking
  • 2 weeks later...

All control arms are or will be 4130 once I'm happy with them.

I've been making 3 or more arms till I'm 100% happy with it so instead of wasting Molly tube and money I prototype everything in mild steel tube first.

Same as the uprights they are now 4130 but the ones in that photo are just old cage material offcuts to get it right.

The hubs are original GTR mounted to a custom tube upright.

The front are original r32gtr uprights and bearings with custom pins and mounting locations.

All the pick ups on te chassis rails are now done in proper laser cut 4130 folded plates.

Here are a few photos from the early mock up stage of the rear suspension and one of the front early mock up.

You can see the fabricated rear upright which has now been modified, jigged and built from 4130. Same sort of principal though. I have built Jigs for every final part from the protypes.

Alot of this has now changed and been finished off with the right materials and fully welded.

Ride height in those photos is a bit higher as well.

The rims are just dumby fits, it has 18*13 rears and 12.5 fronts.

The GTR rear diff is also mounted properly now and driveshafts are being made.

I have tried to stick with as much usable R32-R34 parts as possible on this car to try and keep it simple when spares are needed, alot of things can be used on either of the GTR's which is handy.

post-20349-1281687255_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1281688380_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1281687694_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1281687872_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1281687956_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1281688077_thumb.jpg

post-20349-1281688223_thumb.jpg

It would be nice If everythibng was parallel.

it does look very much that way in those photos but it's not.

It does have a little bump steer which is easily tunable, it has some camber gain which is built into the chassis design.

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 3 weeks later...
Also, any more pics of the front suspension? looking at using the front uprights/hubs off the 33 on the front end.

Thanks

Hey guys

I am following in this project from the start on - I am the guy from Slovakia with the space frame GTR32 - I manufactured my own hubs - its an universal design with flexible points to weld to - laser cut, welded and heat treated, surface treated, hardened aviation steel.

hubtopimage.jpg

They are made for GTR hub bearings but I am thinking of redoing them to fit Audi A8 bearings as they are easier accessable.

mitowheelhubproduction.jpg

dscn2798.jpg

If anyone interested let me know as I could supply them in a short time.

dscn2797.jpg

Take care and good luck with the car - would love to see both cars in a shoot-out - time attack :happy:)

Regards

Tom

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Nope, I don't like the look of ND RF, or any ND really, I don't like their faces or arses, why, because of their "modern" lines, the NC, whilst "modernish" has a more rounded shape that I like Well, that's how my overly judgemental eyes see it anyway  
    • Should be more than fine, especially the overall fuel pressure would never exceed 3.5bar (assuming that thing never gets more than 0.5bar of boost in stock form). According to the chart, it's 11amps.
    • I definitely know the first rule here, look first, ask second. I've seen many people get roasted 😂 I found a few diagrams for the RB, but I'm yet to come across one for the VQ. From what I have read, the pump gets the +12v along with the FPCM, and it's the negative wire that gets passed through the resistor to regulate the voltage. So I assume I can just ground the negative wire at the pump to eliminate the FPCM control. But I really wanted to see the VQ circuit diagram first to make sure I understood it correctly. Once the new pump is in I'll do some testing to see how it behaves, and in the meantime, I'll keep looking for a wiring diagram. Thanks for your help mate, your time is greatly appreciated.    
    • Maybe? I have the Supercheap ToolPro low thingo. It has a somewhat smaller diameter lifting "bowl" than you would expect on a workshop grade trolley jack, and a split rubber pad to suit that diameter. It clears the "N1" style skirts I have. Probably wouldn't if the jack's bowl and a suitably larger rubber block were in use. Having said that though.....you only need the rubber block to exist on the inner side of the pinchweld, so could carve away any rubber that fouled the skirt, leaving some there for "insurance" </simples>
    • I used to do that (sills with rubber jack block).. ... then I got side skirts, and there's no way for the jack to actually work there, the jack pad itself on the jack is too big. Is the answer to use a... smaller (?) jack? Hmmm.
×
×
  • Create New...