Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 112
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hmm i bet that suspension was fun andy! lol

most fun I have had in a long time in the car. 25kmh hairpins and 45-55kmh narrow bends.... manual in 2-3rd all the way. So much fun steering with the right foot.

I got around 8.5-8.8km/L on the trip to the snow on the weekend and that included some really fun driving coming back from Mt Selwyn. 25km of winding roads up and down a valley around the Tumut dam. Then off on another 120km of back roads with logging trucks doing 115km/h so over taking was fun.

I then filled at Goulburn, set the cruise on 120km/h and got 11.4km/L back into Sydney. Got to love that.

But it is going down fast now driving in Sydney traffic again.

good to finally meet you too :D

will be back down there this weekend.. midstation at 10:30 if your around haha.

i had a good run back on sunday 3h50m berridale to sydney ;)

good to finally meet you too :D

will be back down there this weekend.. midstation at 10:30 if your around haha.

Yes, good to meet you also.

Not this week but I will be back down in the next 3 weeks. I have some new boots to show customers.

My way back was not short and also sent the wrong way which got me on this great road so it was soooo much fun even though I was driving all day.

Yeah, that's about what I am getting at the moment with city driving and giving it a bit of stick here and there (gotta test if the CAI makes a difference... over and over and over :) )

I mostly lose fuel when someone else drives my car, sister and mum both have lead feet. If they owned my car I doubt they'd even manage 400km to a tank ;)

Most of my driving is from Mapleton -> Noosa Heads. So about 1/3 of it is highway, the rest depends on how many knobs are on the road to slow me down.

I mostly lose fuel when someone else drives my car, sister and mum both have lead feet. If they owned my car I doubt they'd even manage 400km to a tank :ninja:

Most of my driving is from Mapleton -> Noosa Heads. So about 1/3 of it is highway, the rest depends on how many knobs are on the road to slow me down.

so far i think we're gonna struggle to make 450 :P unless the girl's been flogging it, i've only punched it twice up to 100 :P

  • 4 months later...

Thought I'd dig up this old thread...

Went from 14.4L/100kms to 13L/100kms just by putting new tyres on the car. The old ones (Firenza = crap) made a lot of road noise and basically would've had higher rolling resistance. The new TOYO's are super comfy and quiet too. Highly recommended!!

I'd still like to improve on 13L/100km if possible - just because that was kind of a "best case" figure - after babying the car around for a week.

I recently came across a thread in the V35 section talking about all the carbon build-up in the intake manifold and how it can affect things like power and fuel economy. I intend to try the "subaru upper engine cleaner" sometime to see if that helps without having to take it all apart.

Today I grabbed some caltex techron 5000 ($13 from any caltex servo) and put it in the tank to see how that goes...

Apparently this stuff is also added into Caltex Vortex & Vortex 98 fuels (in much smaller qtys) as a cleaning agent - maybe why some people mentioned black stuff coming out the exhaust when using this fuel?? Could be cleaning all the crap out of the engine?

The caltex down the road from where I live has just got Vortex 98 so I think I'll give that another go to see if it improves with ongoing use.

Just some little things that should hopefully clean up the engine internals :) can only be a good thing.

Has anyone else used the subaru upper engine cleaner? where do you spray it in? is there any reason not to use it on the M35?

I'm with him ! :D

See the Stagea Dyno thread and you can see how rich some of the Stageas get when they are approaching max boost. Bear in mind running rich= less power :) and less $ in your wallet

we are in the process of trying to get ours to do better than 16.4 L /100k :woot:

go look at the dyno graph and come back here to laugh :)

BP ultimate, Mobil Synergy 8000 or Shell Vpower are the fuels to use

Id strongly suggest replace the oxygen sensor, reset battery/ecu, and then get it on the dyno with a reputable workshop to see why its chewing so much fuel.

I'm with him ! :D

See the Stagea Dyno thread and you can see how rich some of the Stageas get when they are approaching max boost. Bear in mind running rich= less power :) and less $ in your wallet

we are in the process of trying to get ours to do better than 16.4 L /100k :woot:

go look at the dyno graph and come back here to laugh :)

I've run nothing but BP ultimate in it, at least for the past 3 months.

ECU has been reset recently - no difference.

Only thing I can try is o2 sensor - but I'm guessing that is near impossible to do myself on the M35 - can anyone confirm this?

Other than that, its really not worth my while taking it to a workshop for the sake of hoping for ~1-2L/100km improvement - which is why I was looking at DIY options...if I cant improve it I'll just put up with it.

I've heard a LOT of good stuff about the subaru engine cleaner. I'll give it a whirl next service - which should be due in the next few months.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • As far as I can tell I have everything properly set in the Haltech software for engine size, injector data, all sensors seem to be reporting proper numbers.  If I change any injector details it doesnt run right.    Changing the base map is having the biggest change in response, im not sure how people are saying it doesnt really matter.  I'm guessing under normal conditions the ECU is able to self adjust and keep everything smooth.   Right now my best performance is happening by lowering the base map just enough to where the ECU us doing short term cut of about 45% to reach the target Lambda of 14.7.  That way when I start putting load on it still has high enough fuel map to not be so lean.  After 2500 rpm I raised the base map to what would be really rich at no load, but still helps with the lean spots on load.  I figure I don't have much reason to be above 2500rpm with no load.  When watching other videos it seems their target is reached much faster than mine.  Mine takes forever to adjust and reach the target. My next few days will be spent making sure timing is good, it was running fine before doing the ECU and DBW swap, but want to verify.  I'll also probably swap in the new injectors I bought as well as a walbro 255 pump.  
    • It would be different if the sealant hadn't started to peel up with gaps in the glue about ~6cm and bigger in some areas. I would much prefer not having to do the work take them off the car . However, the filler the owner put in the roof rack mount cavities has shrunk and begun to crack on the rail delete panels. I cant trust that to hold off moisture ingress especially where I live. Not only that but I have faded paint on as well as on either side of these panels, so they would need to come off to give the roofline a proper respray. My goal is to get in there and put a healthy amount of epoxy instead of panel filler/bog and potentially skin with carbon fiber. I have 2 spare rolls from an old motorcycle fairing project from a few years back and I think it'd be a nice touch on a black stag.  I've seen some threads where people replace their roof rack delete with a welded in sheet metal part. But has anyone re-worked the roof rails themselves? It seems like there is a lot of volume there to add in some threads and maybe a keyway for a quick(er) release roof rack system. Not afraid to mill something out if I have to. It would be cool to have a cross bar only setup. That way I can keep the sleek roofline that would accept a couple bolts to gain back that extra utility  3D print some snazzy covers to hide the threaded section to be thorough and keep things covered when not using the rack. 
    • Probably not. A workshop grade scantool is my go to for proper Consult interrogation. Any workshop grade tool should do it. Just go to a workshop.
    • In my head it does make sense to be a fuel problem since that is what I touched when cleaning the system. When I was testing with the fuel pressure gauge, the pressure was constantly 2.5 bar with the FPR vacuum removed. When stalling, the pressure was going up to 3.0 bar (which is how it should be on ignition).
    • ECUtalk pages don't mention they support the ABS computer (consult port has more than one CAN), so you might just need a different scan tool. But, I would expect ABS is a different light to the brake warning/handbrake light, do you see an ABS light come on for a few seconds when you turn the key from ACC to IGN? But since you said: I'd have a look at the ABS sensors in the rear hubs to make sure they are not damaged, disconnected etc.
×
×
  • Create New...