Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi

Noob question here. May have been covered before but having trouble finding it.

I got an 03 v35 GT-8. Been wondering for a while what the VDC is for. I know it stands for Vehicle Dynamics Control, but what does it do exactly?

And how does it help with my driving? I tried turning it off but couldnt feel any difference in the handling. Should there be any?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/273638-what-exactly-does-the-vdc-do/
Share on other sites

lol...yeh dun try it, just stops the wheels from spinning...but rmbr to turn it off when flying off from the lights, or chucking an aggressive u-turn....oh and in NO way am i promoting you to do such preposterously unacceptable activities.

Saying that, it is rather fun to do. :)

from memory it does a few things, it detects when a wheel is starting to slip and retarts the timing (reducing the engine power) until the wheel slipping, it can work in conjunction with your abs to assist in balanced braking while on uneven surfaces.

also takes into account an on board g sensor, things like your whether your pressing the brakes pedal, it also looks at your steering wheel angle etc.... to try and anticipate what your trying to do and it will work accordling to keep the car level and balanced..

best off not taking my mumbo jumbo as facts and just google it

VDC trys to save ur ass if you do something stupid or if your cars about to go out of controll it will do its best to bring the car under controll

its kicked in a couple of times in the wet for me and stopped the car from going into a slide when I took a corner too quick or was giving to much gas

Cheers for the replies guys :laugh:

So basically it's a safety feature? It decreases the engine power when it senses the car is going out of control and applies braking on the tires.

Is there any benefit on having this off? i was thinking.. i dunno.. fuel consumption? Handling perhaps?

Don't worry. i won't do those moves at all. Got too much to live for :thumbsup:

i dont think u get the real purpose of having the VDC on yet.. Turning it off for handling, consumption? i m pretty sure no.

but from wat i read(from the things u wrote), you better keep it on ALL TIME.

ask max from this forum, when turning it off, i made 3x360 degree on the track at 70kmph..

VDC = stability control

The VDC unit takes inputs from the ABS wheel sensors, to measure wheel speed, as well as a yaw sensor in the middle of the car to determine how fast you're cornering. It has outputs to the electronic throttle, and your brakes.

Through the ABS wheel sensors it can determine if you're wheelspinning. It'll cut power, and possibly grab the rear brakes, to stop the wheelspin. In that way it acts like the Traction Control System on the lesser-model V35ss and Z33s (although the TCS equipped FM platform cars don't grab brakes).

While cornering, it uses the yaw sensor to determine how fast you're cornering. It compares it to how fast you should be turning (I'm not sure if it just compares the inner and outer wheel speeds or has a steering wheel angle sensor).

If the parameters don't line up, it'll cut power and apply the brakes to bring you back on to what it thinks is the ideal line. So if it thinks you're running wide, it'll grab the inside brakes to pull the car back on line. If you've gotten sideways, it'll cut power and grab brakes in a way that will return you to cornering.

It's not the best system in the world. It's overly aggressive, and pretty slow to react. Z drivers who've tracked their car finds that it reacts slower than they do. They'll counter when they don't corner properly, and the system will counter a fraction of a second later. It amplifies the correction, and then they need to re-correct. The system will detect the over-correction, however, and also try to re-correct. etc etc.

Hopefully in future versions it'll actually work as a driver aid rather than a driver handicap (like Ferrari's current setup) but I'd leave it on if your car is being operated by someone who doesn't care about driving, but turn it off if you can actually drive yourself.

Edited by scathing

"but from wat i read(from the things u wrote), you better keep it on ALL TIME"

Cheers, i plan to. It's a family car and i plan to treat it that way :(

Scathing's explanation is exactly what i'm looking for, thanks for that mate.

And thanks to everybody who provided their answers too :thumbsup:

i dont think u get the real purpose of having the VDC on yet.. Turning it off for handling, consumption? i m pretty sure no.

but from wat i read(from the things u wrote), you better keep it on ALL TIME.

ask max from this forum, when turning it off, i made 3x360 degree on the track at 70kmph..

Yep, I saw that :).

I kept mine on for the duration.

Is there any benefit on having this off? i was thinking.. i dunno.. fuel consumption? Handling perhaps?

Handling maybe. If you actually want to slide the car, then you should turn it off. If you are pressing on and want to use it as a driver's car, then you will be a little quicker and the chassis should be a bit more predictable.

On the manuals if you are trying to get off the lights quickly VDC goes off, it cuts power too much if it detects just a little slip. However, if you are driving sensibly it is good to have on, especially in the wet, doesn't let the back end get out too far etc.

if you try to do a burnout get the wheel spinning then as soon as you hit the brake, the vdc will kick back in. ive read this happens on the g35 on American forums has anyone been down to the strip and tried it?

also if you do excessive slippage like a spin out.... the slip light will remain on. dont panic. just turn the car off and on again and it will be ok.

I am pretty sure in BMI's "350Z Shock" they said that if you just press the button it goes into a failsafe mode. You can power oversteer, but once you tap the brakes the electronics will try to straighten up the car.

If I remember correctly, and I probably don't, if you hold it down for 8 seconds it disables the VDC until you restart the car.

Not a fan of the V35's VDC. Its great day to day for saving my tyres but as stated its way to agressive and slow to respond. I find it trips as soon as it gets heavy lateral loads and cuts too much power. The otherside, and the worst cases, is when it trips just as is stepping. You start to correct in time with the slide and it hits the brakes and cuts the power. Obviously it corrects the correction of the correction for you with brake force distribution (which is a fantastic feature) but it looks ugly, feels uncomfortable and ruins your fun.

The V35 is front heavy as it is so its a very straight forward (literally) car to correct. The biggest problem I've found is if you're too heavy into a corner you get the typical skyline understeer, a quick weight shift solves that though. I enjoy driving with the VDC off its nice and simple even if you've got a heavy foot like me its a very forgiving car, but I find SW20's forgiving so take that as you like.

  • 9 years later...
18 hours ago, Zx14rider said:

So guys if I was going through some nice tight mountain rangers with the VDC off would it come back on as soon as I touch the brakes?

No it will not. Ive done this many times in my 370gt.

  • 1 year later...

I was having a VDC/slip light  issue with my 350. On a couple of occasions, it caused handling issues when coming into corners. Did a search on it. Check the fluid level in the brake reservoir; needs to be close to full. Fixed it for me.

18 hours ago, mitchy93 said:

My 370GT V36 has VDC on and it still gets the slip light frequently. Is it supposed to let a bit of slip or?

Depends.

What are you doing when it happens?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • He's right ~ there is no 'magic' with stuff like this ... it is more likely that in the process of looking for the short, the loom/wire 'incidentally' got moved in the process, thus removing the short ~ now, that maybe a wire (in a loom) rubbing against the edge of some grounded metal, that's worn through the insulation, causing the (now intermittent) short to ground. If one wire in a loom has been damaged in this fashion, it's reasonable to presume that other wires beside it may have also be damaged, and now exposed...you can bet the green crusty copper corrosion will start... ...that'd be a pisser, Murphy's Law steps right in as GTS observes...but worse, something like that is easier to find when shorted...ie; unplug bulb and fuse, and put multimeter in continuity mode so you get constant beep, and carefully poke about hoping to find if some movemet of the harness stop the beeping.... ...it's still all a bit Arnie tho' ..It'll be back... 😃
    • Yeah, but knowledge of one wire's insulation worn through to short on earth implies the possibility of other wires doing the same. I had my power steering die, because the wire that runs to the solenoid valve on the rack runs in the same loom as the power wire for the O2 sensor. And when the O2 sensor/wire did something stupid and burnt part of that loom to death, the only indication was the shit(ter) fuel economy and the heavy steering. It took deep excavation of the looms in the bay to find the problem. Not wear through in that case, but similar shit.
    • Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.
    • Correct. The ECU cannot read oil temp. (Well, I think it probably can in some situations. I did have the thought of potentially repinning the ECU when I was doing oil pressure). I am using this into the MPVI dongle, so that the MPVI dongle can read oil temperature. It is attached to a VDO gauge which is obviously calibrated to whatever curve the sender actually is using. This would be easy if I could setup a table of voltage to temperature like many sensors, but it appears I cannot do this and can only setup the transform rule which appears to be Input (voltage) x Multiplier, and add an offset. This to me means it MUST be linear. So it may be a complete waste of time wiring this into the ECU. The idea was that the MPVI3 has standalone logging. I wanted to use this instead of a laptop with serial cable (for wideband) for long datalogs. Given the wideband also has electric interference, I may never trust this either in a world where the serial wideband and the analog output wideband do not agree. Last time I did a trace I could see the two wideband traces follow each other, but one was a little leaner than the other. I plan on playing with voltage offsets and actually driving the thing to see how close they correlate. If they never correlate... then, well, maybe I'll never use either. Ideally I'd like to have the Analog wideband read ever so slightly leaner than the serial one, because the serial one is 'correct'. Tuning the car to be ever so slightly too-rich would be the aim. Not needing to have a laptop flying around in the footwell connected with cables is... an advantage. About the only one from the forced upgrade to MPVI3.
    • Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha
×
×
  • Create New...