Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i used the same system for a cefiro with a 25 box worked perfectly, i used the navara speedo drive (32702-02G17) nissan part no. burnt the cog off, used the red gear on the speedo drive out of the r33 box. rounded out the middle of the cog, heated up the navara drive and tapped it on, super glued both ends. cut the slot for the locator and all good.

cheers heaps

ive got a gtr one in mine atm but it reads like 10-20-30kph off (increases with speed)

is the navara/vl one accurate?

(it doesnt bother me too much having wrong speed as i can gauge off the revs-except in school zones.. dam 40kph have no idea what speed im doing)

Edited by Char

I'll have a search for my post with the cog tooth count vs final drive ratios.. the 17T standard Navara cog is a pretty close match for my 3.9:1 diff gears (reads 7km/h high), you need the correct toothed cog to suit your diff gears.

I'll have a search for my post with the cog tooth count vs final drive ratios.. the 17T standard Navara cog is a pretty close match for my 3.9:1 diff gears (reads 7km/h high), you need the correct toothed cog to suit your diff gears.

7km/hr at what speed?!? The amount that the speedo would be out would vary with speed...

Mine has a 4.3 ratio diff and is out by about 7km/h at 60km/h but 10km/h at 100km/h etc etc

7km/hr at what speed?!? The amount that the speedo would be out would vary with speed...

Mine has a 4.3 ratio diff and is out by about 7km/h at 60km/h but 10km/h at 100km/h etc etc

@ 100km/h I'm actually doing 93km/h

7km/hr at what speed?!? The amount that the speedo would be out would vary with speed...

Mine has a 4.3 ratio diff and is out by about 7km/h at 60km/h but 10km/h at 100km/h etc etc

i was actually wrong, at 72 speedo im doing 60 gps and 127 speedo 100 gps

in other words its miles out :thumbsup:

  • 2 years later...
  • 4 months later...
  • 3 months later...
  • 9 months later...

just had a sensor shaft snap after this mod. the pics arent working can someone explain the 180degrees out for the locator pin for me? i didnt do any of that and maybe thats why it snaped. i just pressed the cog on and installed.

  • 1 month later...
  • 3 years later...
  • 1 year later...

Did the conversion today and I took some pics as the original images are down.

KpiwlM6.jpg?1

Required parts.

MlLR3aq.jpg

What the drive looks like - note this one *came out* of the gearbox (didn't know what was in there). I didn't get any pics but I used a combo of a (n eventually plastic coated) cutting wheel, carbide cutter and a carbide burr on the dremel. You can see remnants of the removed black gear in the bottom right of the image. Recommend you melt it off instead, it'll be a lot quicker and less worried about damaging the spline on the shaft but messier.

What I didn't get was a picture of the flat I cut into the splined shaft. Cut 12mm down from the edge to match the new gear, or cut the flat from the gear. Either way works.

YiSyg9v.jpg

Note the gear shaft offset from the body. Also note the notch in the centre bottom, above thumb nail.

HusFz2g.jpg

Note the difference in gear size. The shaft housing needs to be rotated 180 degrees to make room for the bigger gear. The body will spin in the gearbox but you'll need to cut a new slot for the retainer.

hVFJWHD.jpg

Original retainer location in relation to notch.

wO8uIHr.jpg

*NEW* retainer location in relation to notch which needs to be made. It's mirrored around the notch. Approx 3.5mm deep x 20mm tall and 4mm away from the edge (from memory).

lbU8CH2.jpg

Cut it with three hacksaw cuts. Could use a dremel or a square file instead.

cXqxc3M.jpg

I didn't neaten it up at all as I had already cut a tiny bit too far.

4boLI07.jpg

New gear on. I applied a bit of araldite to the flat area just to be safe. Don't use superglue as I think it may melt the gear. Notice I started cutting the flat out of the gear, before realising I could cut the shaft instead (and would provide better location on the shaft, not that I imagine there's much force on it anyway).

VhAwXRL.jpg

Note, the gear doesn't bottom out on the housing like the black gear. Top of gear is flush with the shaft (as shown in an earlier photo).

vdexDX8.jpg

Going into the gearbox - if the gears are meshed, it should slide up to here with minimal effort. Note the location of the notch in the speedo drive body (should be pointing down).

CiTzJwk.jpg

All done!

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...